Hi y’all, I came up with a interesting way to run aftermarket 3 point seatbelts so there is minimum modification and no big ugly retractor. The set I got was the generic CJ Pony Parts $200 seat belt kit, I also had to buy two bolts from the hardware store for the top point of the belts that fit in the factory holes (would tell you what they were but I lost the bag). Other materials used were a wire coat hanger, 4 small machine screws with washers, locking washers, and nuts, a cheap cap style pen, gun lube, black plastic school folder, and the original seat belt hardware. One thing that will be different for y’all is the seats - mine are Chevy Monza Spyder seats so they had the extra loop by the headrest.
I purposely made the retractor mounting hole close to the rear torque box because I figured it would protect the opening somewhat from water and it would be a very strong area of the car.
For the belt roller thing I took a piece of wire hanger with half of a cheap ball point pen tube and bent it to resemble the thing you see in the picture, lubed it with the gun lube (don’t use much not trying to oil your belts) and screwed it down through two small holes I drilled. Note: one of the holes does go through the edge of the rear torque box flange.
The last part that really needs explanation is the folder - all I did was cut a piece off and fold it over the seat belt stapling it together (don’t staple the belt). I plan on securing it with a strong tape to the rear seat door card thing, all this piece does is stop the seat belt from rubbing on the door card or rear seat so it shouldn’t need to hold up to any strong force.
Everything else bolts to a factory location. Beware the top hole’s threads may not be great. I did sit on the rear seat and didn’t feel a belt retractor even when I sat on the far edge where no one would sit anyway.
The only concerns I have for this system is:
1. The retractor doesn’t have the strongest spring so when I take the belt out of the headrest clip on the seat it doesn’t like to retract all of the way to the top point unless you help it.
2. Your passenger could easily throw the buckle into the window when exiting if you don’t have a seatbelt clip on your headrest.
3. Because these retractors lock up easily, if someone yanks the belt hard they could rip the homemade belt roller out of the floor.
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I purposely made the retractor mounting hole close to the rear torque box because I figured it would protect the opening somewhat from water and it would be a very strong area of the car.
For the belt roller thing I took a piece of wire hanger with half of a cheap ball point pen tube and bent it to resemble the thing you see in the picture, lubed it with the gun lube (don’t use much not trying to oil your belts) and screwed it down through two small holes I drilled. Note: one of the holes does go through the edge of the rear torque box flange.
The last part that really needs explanation is the folder - all I did was cut a piece off and fold it over the seat belt stapling it together (don’t staple the belt). I plan on securing it with a strong tape to the rear seat door card thing, all this piece does is stop the seat belt from rubbing on the door card or rear seat so it shouldn’t need to hold up to any strong force.
Everything else bolts to a factory location. Beware the top hole’s threads may not be great. I did sit on the rear seat and didn’t feel a belt retractor even when I sat on the far edge where no one would sit anyway.
The only concerns I have for this system is:
1. The retractor doesn’t have the strongest spring so when I take the belt out of the headrest clip on the seat it doesn’t like to retract all of the way to the top point unless you help it.
2. Your passenger could easily throw the buckle into the window when exiting if you don’t have a seatbelt clip on your headrest.
3. Because these retractors lock up easily, if someone yanks the belt hard they could rip the homemade belt roller out of the floor.
