WCP7 is block # from one add wants $200

 

That is a casting identification in the lifter galley. WCP stands for Windsor (canada) Casting Plant. The actual casting number and casting date code are above the starter on the right side of the block.

I have a very mild 393W in my daily driver -- a '89 Crown Vic. I used a '92 block for my build. Nothing wrong with it, just not a roller block. I couldn't find a good 351W roller block when I built my motor three years ago. My motor is built for low-RPM street use and towing, not high-RPM horsepower. It runs on pump Regular gas, and is even emissions-legal! The combo I came up with is now a regularly cataloged item at cnc-motorsports.com. Mine 393W is the 9.5:1 compression kit that sells for $1100 for crank, pistons, rods, rings, bearings, balancer, flexplate and balancing. For racing use, they have lots of forged-component stroker kits in the $1600 range.

The 94-97 351W block isn't machined for a roller cam, it has a different casting with taller lifter bores so it can hold the OEM hydraulic roller lifters. The OEM roller lifters will have their oil groove come out of the lifter bore in an earlier 351W block. If you want to go with the expense of either a reduced base circle roller cam, or aftermarket roller lifters, you can still use the earlier 351W block.

Any stroker will need better cylinder heads to feed those extra cubes. The E7TE heads used in '87-93 5.0 Mustang GTs and '87-97 351W trucks are fine for a stock motor, but don't have the air flow capability to feed a hungry motor. I used a pair of ported cast iron World Windsor Seniors.

 

I cant find a site that has a block code starting with W anyone know

 

The street fighter 347 package is a very well known, very popular selection.
A 1969 351W with a 4V puts out 290 hp at the fly wheel.

A stroker package for a 351W, like a 418, makes really stupid street hp.
Do you want to do this?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YnHyMk5DwHI

Determine what you want from the car, then talk to the check book, then talk to some people who drive radical cars on a regular basis......

 

A stroker kit on a 302 block is a waste of money a stock 351 makes more torque than a 347. Some people have had cooling issues with any kit bigger than a 393. A 393 is my pick for my car. It all boils down to what your use for your car is. If you want a car to go race on a reg basis or a "Max effort" type car than a windsor stroker motor is it. If you want a cruiser that can very easy get "stupid" but u are not concerned about a et or etc. then go a mild rebuild 351. If you want to just cruise and do a burn out here and there than a 289 is plenty.

 

Stroker:

Pros: All your engine accessories and underhood components still fit. You can maintain a completely factory appearance if that's your thing.

If you already have a 302 block, you can use it. 289s are reported to have shorter cylinder skirts, which limits the amount of strole that can be added.

All the components for 331 to 347 cid strokers are pretty much off-the- shelf parts these days, and not greatly more expensive than stock rebuild parts.

Cons: There are rod angularity issues with 302 based strokers. Over about 331 cid, piston ring placement becomes a problem. Accordingly, large 302 based strokers tend towards high oil consumption and premature cylinder wear.
Some of the Chinese-made stroker parts have been known to have quality-control issues in the past.

351W:

Pros: Basically stock rebuild should cost less than 302 stroker. More cu. inches. 351W has beefier block, bigger rod and main bearings and uses larger, stronger fasteners for critical components like head bolts, and rod and main bearing caps. No rod angle or piston ring placement issues. Should be more durable, long term.

Cons: Have to buy a rebuildable block. Engine is physically bigger which makes spark plug access more difficult and can cause hood clearance issues with a high-rise intake and stock air cleaner assembly. New accessory brackets and pulleys may be needed. Engine is heavier.

As you can see, there are trade-offs either way you go. Personally, I like a 351 because of its inherent durability, reasonable rebuild costs, and aluminum heads and intake will bring thje weight down to or below factory 289/302 territory.

'92 block is fine, it'll be set up for a 1 piece rear main seal, which is a plus, and 351Ws never went through the lightening/re-balancing process the 302 got in '81, so later blocks are just as strong as the early ones.
'94 and newer are considered the "premium" 351W blocks, because they come machined for a roller cam. Depending on what you have planned, that may or may not be am issue. There are roller cam retrofit kits available, if that's a priority to you.

289/302 headers may or may not work. The 351W deck is taller which will pull the headers closer to the floorplan. Depending on the design, there could be enough clearance to work. But unless you can find someone with your exact combination already, it'll take some careful measuring and/or trial fitting of the specific headers in question to know for sure.

 

sale-1043788191@craigslist.org he claims this is a 351w roller i cant find the numbers he has listed. Here is another looks like an older engine sale-1027859593@craigslist.org from what you guys have said so far 351w is the way to go for a stronger and more HP. I will want to do some 1/4 racing now and then but will be used on the street for the most part. Just to have a good time.11-12 sec street car would be my goal. welp off to work blah, thanks

 

Your local pull-a-part (2 locations in Cleveland to serve you) has a bunch of Ford pickups and Crown Vics, Club Wagons, etc, in stock. So, you don't really have to hunt the want ads for a good engine.
You can buy a "guaranteed" engine from them for a few bucks and have one that runs, or you can buy a core engine from them if you know what to look for.
Pull-A-Part is cheap too. One stop shopping. Pullapart.com

I'm a big fan of salvage yard stuff because a lot of cars (especially up there) rust to pieces around a perfectly good engine, or they're wrecked while still motoring down the road.
Buy something from a guy's garage and you don't know what you're gettting. Chewed up crank, cracked water jackets, dropped valve, etc.
At minimum, listen to it run or take the pan off and look around in it before you buy from an advert. If they won't let you do that, keep going.
As the economy gets tougher, people are going to be putting lipstick on a lot of pigs.

I'd go with a stock displacement windsor. Learn how to keep it running right, and then move on to a stroker if you want more power.
But, if you really want an 11 or 12 second street car, you'll need a stroker, some very serious parts, and will have to learn how to tune it yourself unless you have a buddy like Dennis Wilson who rides around with you all the time.

 

Careful with used 351W engines. They ran forever so when they finally did hit the boneyard a .030" overbore wasn't enough. Anything over .030" is "iffy" due to core shift.

A stroker is no problem with your 289 block. Many internet rumors and myth's about stroking a 289 but is no problem providing you have a good 289 block. Some simple grinding is required for 289-302 blocks to allow for the increased stroke. Balancing is always required with stroking, sometimes require a slug of heavy metal that adds to the cost.

Either way, you can make some unreal power with either a 289 or 351W based motor depending what heads and camshaft you choose.

Do a search, this is a very popular subject.

 

...A stroker is no problem with your 289 block. Many internet rumors and myth's about stroking a 289 but is no problem providing you have a good 289 block. Some simple grinding is required for 289-302 blocks to allow for the increased stroke...

Don't forget that on early 289 blocks the cylinder bores do not come down into the bottom of the block as far as 302 blocks do. This means even less lateral support (at the bottom of the stroke) for pistons whose skirts are already woefully short (with women this is a good thing, with pistons, not so good).

 

I have time to look, Im in no hurry the car is still in body work and paint stage.Has a good runnig 289 in it now so just thought I'd pick up a 351 take my time with it and end up with great HP engine and still be able to drive it till my build is done.I have a 67 GTO clone thats 450hp i'd guess its a blast to drive lots of tork 3000 stall. But 400-450hp in a little cougar should crazy fun.Even if it takes 2 years to build wife wont nag about the money if a drag it out over 2 years or less

 

woodsnake I over looked that video link Thats sounds good!! I like the car alarms going of lol. I get that sometime with my pontiac just driving down side streets sometimes. it only has 5 foot of 3in pipe and mufflers raddles the window in the house.Thats what kinda HP i want for my cat so 351w stroker be the way to go? I already got a center 4.11 gears maybe be to much gear but was a good deal $500 here is the info on the center. Ford 8 inch rear 4.11 center section ready to install. It has the stronger extra ribbed Ford 8 inch case with a trac loc posi differential. This trac loc is like the Ford factory unit, but stronger with 4 pinions, a billet hat, and a nodular iron carrier. I ran this in my 66 Mustang for less than 500 miles (garage queen/strip only). I purchased it new less than a year ago from seller tj1141 here on ebay who specializes in Ford 8" and 9" rears. See original ebay link below for specific details. Held up just fine behind a built 302/c4 combo at the strip with mt drag radials. Has less than 5 passes on it. I paid $850 shipped for this item new. My loss is your gain. Sold car and no longer need. seem like a deal to me couldnt build one for that price still looks brand new.Again thanks for all the info guys pull-a-part mite be a place to start soon as the weather warms up look for something wrecked that i can see the miles on.

 

If you got through the comments on that green 68's page, some where in there he lists all the mods that he has done. I think it's a 418++ money....

Here is what he lists:
410 windsor
AFR 205's
SRP pistons 11.4 to 1
SCAT H beam rods
SCAT crank (internally balanced)
Solid roller cam
Scorpion 1.6 rockers
Super Victor
Holley HP 950
FPA headers
CSR Electric water pump
Derale Electric Fan
MSD igniton
Edelbrock Performer RPM nitrous kit
Mallory Comp 140 fuel pumps (1 for nitrous, 1 for na)

 

Thanks thats some good info. Not sure if I will go with iron or just get some alum heads. More I think about it pull-a-part mite be the way to go for the engine, Get all the brackets ect I will need. Next thing is the tranny will the c4 I have bolt to 351? I guess I should of said Never built a ford before. So some of the stuff I ask may seem dumb Im Jumping the fence from the GM side on this one lol.

 

My cat is running a 351w/C4 combo right now, no probs as long as you get the proper bellhousing. I would have to go look under the car to tell you if it has any particular casting numbers to look for. As far as being new to Ford, always great to have another convert.

 

Woodsnake just went back and read it. Cant help but smile evertime I watch the video

 

V-Tec.

Just kidding, I'm doing a 418 in mine as well... I'm 25% to my complete car budget and I've only been saving since September. Keep in mind you need to beef up your driveline and chassis to hold that power on the ground. I'm doing the TCP Pushrod and Fab 9 rear end, Moser is probably getting some of my cash too. Thank God I made friends with DNZ68 who owns a transmission shop locally, he's helping out Four-55 with a trans swap right now, and hopefully next winter my car will be over at his shop doing the same. My car is being built to drive like a complete @$$hole on the weekends and take as much abuse as my right foot can give it.

The bomb-diggity motor is the cheap part. Making the car "bullettproof" can get expensive.

 

yeah, this comes up every once in a while.
Is it possible people mean the old 260/early 289 blocks with the 5(?) bolt pattern?
Here's an animated gif for you, Art. So, you don't have to use the mundane old smilies. :lol2:

 

Ok so Im going to start looking for a 94 or newer 351w/roller cam If thats going to give me better proformance/HP. Unless its a pull-a-part then will have to wait on the weather $139.00 at pull a part, bell housing $18.00. I got a set of NEW harland sharp roller rockers 1.7 Yesterday for FREE stroker kit $1,000 or more? GT40 heads or just get a new set alum complete?.I have iron ram air heads on my pontiac cost me about $1,300 for everthing really nice but alum would of been $3,000 for alum heads for a pontiac 400-455 aint cheap, But im really happy with the iron ones. So I guess I will have to do some price checking and math to see where I should go with that. Any head I get will need work to use roller rockers and guide plates and 7/16 studs? Again Thanks for all the Great info guys

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car...ash=item350100712125&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72:543|65:12|39:1|240:1318 -http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-Truck-Parts-Accessories__SB-FORD-351-W-408-EAGLE-STROKER-CRANK-RODS-PISTONS-KIT_W0QQitemZ370164809595QQadiZ2865QQadnZCarQ20Q26Q20TruckQ20PartsQ20Q26Q20AccessoriesQQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item370164809595&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A543%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

 

That kit above would put your compression ratio at almost 12:1. That's race fuel only territory. All that compression with cast pistons??? That's a recipie for disaster. I broke a cast (hyper) Keith Black piston in my 9.5:1 393W motor when I experienced a slight detonation (ping). You'd also have to spend another $200-300 to have that kit balanced, too.

Cheap parts do not last in a high-performance engine. That isn't a place you want to skimp on quality. BTDT.

 

That kit above would put your compression ratio at almost 12:1. That's race fuel only territory. All that compression with cast pistons??? That's a recipie for disaster. I broke a cast (hyper) Keith Black piston in my 9.5:1 393W motor when I experienced a slight detonation (ping). You'd also have to spend another $200-300 to have that kit balanced, too.

Cheap parts do not last in a high-performance engine. That isn't a place you want to skimp on quality. BTDT.

So what kinda compression would I want to run pump gas. I should be looking at FORGED DISH pistons kits? seems all the flat pistons are high compression. I seen a few kits that come balanced already around $1,600 that are forged pistons ect. This kit here is forged with dish pistons http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ESP-16123030&autoview=sku $1,300 NOT balanced tho

 

That isn't a place you want to skimp on quality. BTDT.

Right on.

Also, the GT40 heads will be wheezers on an normally aspirated 11 second car and especially so on a stroker.
I'd look at something like this setup... maybe.

 

And reasonably priced - nice kit! You couldn't have it machined/built for that.

 

Here is the kit that is balanced already http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car...ash=item350104873766&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72:543|65:12|39:1|240:1318 Just what to get a grasp of what Im going to need what its going to cost.This aint going to happen over nite if I want to stay married drag it out over year umm or two and I wont have to deal with this :eek2:

 

Hell she should be happy Im saving money already cheaper kits http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...=SI&its=I&itu=UCI&otn=15&po=LVI&ps=54&item=170268645230&category=33620&viewitem=

 

Your head choice will have an effect on compression due to the size (cc) of the chamber.
So, it is advisable to select your induction parts and then choose a piston with the proper dimensions that will give you the compression ratio you need/want.

I like to run 9.5 compression on the street. That way, if I wake up in Mexico I don't have to worry about filling up on Pemex (which is filtered through dogs, I hear) and blowing my expensive engine to pieces.
YMMV.

However, Max Rockatanski did manage to run a streetable 351 with stage 4 heads and a roots type blower on fuel he scavenged in hub caps and bottles. So, I guess anything is possible. :icon16:

 

I would stay away from e-bay and a performance engine. I would make friends with a local machine shop and pick up a Jegs or Summit catalog. Then if you have a catastrophe you have somewhere to go that's not your computer monitor. I have developed a fantastic network of local automotive specialty shops and beer seems to be the best currency.

 

I was kinda thinking the same thing, Summitracing is about 30 miles from me and trick flow is rite across the street from summit. Ok this is the plan soon as the weather warms up hit pull-a-part get a 95 or newer 351w roller. I have a buddy works for nappa with a shop have him clean and check the block. Pick up some alum heads set up for guide plates and 7/16 studs and roller rockers. Then pick the stroker kit, oh and alot begging and butt kissing is going to happen in there some place. Something else i was thinking about what size tire should I run? it has 14 inch tires and cragars on it now. The center I just bought has 4.11 gears, Another thing tork box I think I read someplace on here 67 only has tork box on one side TRUE? If so I should do that when we replace the driverside floor pan. Moving rite along with more Questions unibody ties/connecters bolt or Weld? All this should be done in 3 months. Here is where its at now.

 

He wants $200 o.b.o this is the email he sent me..
Im not positive about the number as there is some corrosion but I think it says (F41E-8015-AA7) I do know that under the intake it says 351 WCP-7 whichI believe is a roller cam block. The heads I couldn't tell what they said,but they are just stock heads. I pulled the engine out of a 96 Econoline van. The block doesn't have the roller cam in it,but has the provisions for it. If you want any other pics just let me know.

He mite take $150 or less even, it been on craigslist along time.bad thing is it 100 miles away