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Discussion Starter #1
Whats the deal with the welded on ball joints on the LCA's. Are all of them like that now?

I just need to get a tie rod/pitman arm puller and I am good to go. :D Anyone know if I could use a standard 3 arm gear puller for this job? or do I need the expensive specific pullers...

 

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Yeah you probably want to get a regular pitman arm puller. See if one of the local auto parts have one to rent if you dont want to buy one for a one time job. Those tapered splines can be a ***** to get loose sometimes. Don't be afraid to use the ole BFH on the end of the puller.

I don't know about the welded in lower ball joints, seems screwed up to me. My brother just put a new front end kit under his stang, I'll ask him if his was that way. Where did you get your parts from? mm
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I got the parts from Mustangs Plus. It's a 68 kit. I also ordered a
pair of used 68 strut rods from Cascade Classics. This way I can get rid of the lunky 67 style strut rods.

I have a pickle fork, so I will just tear into the old ball joints to get em off. But I have to be careful with the tie rod ends.

I guess I could use the pickle fork to remove the P/S contol valve from the pitman arm. I will be installing a manual steering adapter anyways.
 

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is that a kit?

who makes that kit?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
the suspension kit included the upper/lower arms, spring insulators, spring perchs, sway bar mounts and end links, and strut rod bushings.
There is also a manual steering adapter and the rest of the stuff is from Mustangs Unlimited, (shocks, bearings/seals etc.... )
 

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Crazycat,
I got a kit from Mustangs plus also(used on the 69 390). I did pass on using the poly strut rod bushings and got a set of rubber. The poly don't have the give that the stock strut rods should have. Out side of that I think you will like the quality of the parts. The only thing I don't like is common among supplyers. No new hardware(nuts and bolts). Neal
.;) :rolleyes: ;)
 

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Never mind what I said. You mentioned a pitman arm puller and I now see your not changing the pitman arm. Yeah what Logan said about the control valve. Although a big hammer on the foreward end of the pitman arm works for me. mm
 

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OOoo... I remember how I got it off now!! This worked with two blows...

Go to home depot and buy a 3 ft long, 3/4" steel tube. Then buy a 3ft long, 1/2" steel bar. From the top, slide the tube down over the top of the shaft coming up through the pitman arm. Then slide the bar down the tube.

Proceed to whack the top of the bar with a 2lb sledge. Rejoice at the resulting separation.
 

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welded ball joints

most reproducting LCAs have welded in ball joints, that's not the best design. from what i'm told, cougars and mustangs originaly came with ball joints rivited in, they are much stronger, but much more expensive, like $160/each. if it were me, and i was going to redo my suspension, i'd go with the original type LCAs just because i've seen what a broken LCA looks like, and it's not pretty. And i don't mean to say that the mustangs plus parts are cheap or anything (they do carry a warranty), they just could be better.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
thanks for the tips guys. Anyone know if I could use a standard 2 arm gear puller for removing the tie rod ends from the spindles?
Like this:
 

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That's exactly what I used, worked much better that a pickel fork on the ball joints and the tie rods.

Also, I like driving my car so much more now that I have removed the power steering and gone with the manual conversion. I can feel the road now and don't feel I have to obey the corner speed signs...
 
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