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Discussion Starter #1
I want to get the cougar ready for the winter (68 302 4v) the following is a list of things I'm going to do anything else I'm missing?

Oil/filter change with a 10w
New wires
New plugs .032 - .036 gap
Set the carburetor for winter operations
Check compression
Check timing

Anything else I should do that I'm missing?
 

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Here in WI winter temps can vary from relatively mild to near absolute zero, making choke adjustments something of a weekly routine. I've also found that backing off the timing slightly really helps starting the car on cold mornings. Sounds like you have the same engine (j-code) as my 68 which I've successfully driven through five winters. Some other things you will want to address are making sure you've got good anti-freeze in the radiator and that the thermostat and hoses are all in good shape, same with belts. Nothing worse than changing belts on the side of the highway at -14 deg. Ask me how I know. Another thing that is well worth the investment: new weatherstrip for your doors and seals for where the gas pedal and wires go through the firewall. Your heater is no match for the ice-cold drafts that creep in through even the tiniest gaps.
 

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Here in WI winter temps can vary from relatively mild to near absolute zero, making choke adjustments something of a weekly routine. I've also found that backing off the timing slightly really helps starting the car on cold mornings. Sounds like you have the same engine (j-code) as my 68 which I've successfully driven through five winters. Some other things you will want to address are making sure you've got good anti-freeze in the radiator and that the thermostat and hoses are all in good shape, same with belts. Nothing worse than changing belts on the side of the highway at -14 deg. Ask me how I know. Another thing that is well worth the investment: new weatherstrip for your doors and seals for where the gas pedal and wires go through the firewall. Your heater is no match for the ice-cold drafts that creep in through even the tiniest gaps.
You drive your Cougar in all that salt.:eek2:
 

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Anybody else notice how much more power your car makes when the weather cools off? Is the difference between 90 degree weather and 60 degree weather comparable to going from 60 down to 30?
 

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Anybody else notice how much more power your car makes when the weather cools off? Is the difference between 90 degree weather and 60 degree weather comparable to going from 60 down to 30?
Temp made a big diffence in the snowmobile. Run faster when it was real cold.
But if it got too cold you could burn a piston.
 

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Anybody else notice how much more power your car makes when the weather cools off? Is the difference between 90 degree weather and 60 degree weather comparable to going from 60 down to 30?
For my 68, the sweet spot is when the air is dry and the temp is between 10 and 20 above. Warmer than that usually means damp air and I've run into carb icing on a few occasions. Colder than that, well, it's just too damn cold.
 

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Not much carb icing here... The G I bought out of upstate New York came with a T-Bird intake because aluminum PI manifold he had been trying to use didn't get warm enough to run in the winter time. Of course, they have very damp conditions there to boot.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well I got my new wires and plugs replaced and the last plug I pulled was coated in oil and smelled like gas!!!!

I checked the resistance of all the old wires and compared them to the new ones disregarding the scale my ohms meter was on I got 12 ohms off the old wires and 8 ohms on the new except the non firing cylinder that wire was off scale so problem solved there.

I looked back at my recorders and my gas milage went from 15-18 mpg to 10-15 mpg in town driving about 10 months ago, I must have been driving on 7 cylinders for the past 10 months.

Of course if I had an onboard computer constantly monitoring my parameters I would have gotten an error code 10 months ago but of course I probably wouldn't have been able to fix it myself and I would cost me $600.
 
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