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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all !!

I had a question for everyone and anyone.
Where is the best or most common place to
connect the + wire from my electric choke
carb? Right now I have it connected to the
yellow wire coming out of the heater. There is
a male / female connection right before the two
wires go through the fire wall from inside the
engine.
I know I need a wire that is hot only when the
key is truned, which this is.
Is there a better place to make the connection
under tha dash or should it be done under the
hood? I think i was told or read it here, not to
wire it to the coil...

Thanks,
Jim
 

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No,don't connect to the coil. I ran a line to the fuse block. I don't recognize the wires your talking about, but if it works... Just make sure you have 12 volts at the choke.

Bruce
 

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I ran mine to the fuse block as well. Do you have a shop manual to identify what you're connecting to? They're a great resource - if I had a scanner I'd scan the ignition wiring diagram...

Anyone got a scanner AND a shop manual???

Ken
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ken and Leon,

I can run a wire to the fuse block.
Which fuse should I use and will it only
send power when the key is turned?

Jim
 

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Jim...I am pretty certain I spliced (pigtail and soldered) into a switched wire that was part of the main ignition harness. 68 Kat is in storage while we build a house so I can't check it.

I'll get my shop manual tomorrow and should be able to tell you which lead specifically.

Ken
 

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I hooked mine up to the switched-power terminal on the ignition switch.
 

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What's the problem w/ the Coil hook up like holley suggests?
 

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Garey, fords use a resistor wire to feed the coil, you only have 8-10 volts at the coil with the engine running. The starter solenoid(sorry,can't spell) bypasses the resistor when cranking. The choke will draw this voltage down even more reducing your spark. I'm surprised holley would suggest that...

Bruce
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Still looking for the best place:

Well I ran the wire through fire wall and now have it
wired into the same wires from the old stock am radio.
I tried the fuse block but that was power all the time.
I tried some othe wires under the dash but could not
find one that was only hot with the key on. All the ones
I tried were hot all the time.
Only problem with the way I have it now is the radio has
some feed back noise with the volume low.

Still looking...

Jim
 

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The original power source for Ford electric chokes is the stator post on the alternator (white wire w/black stripe). This supplies @7vdc only when the engine is running which is nice in case you listen to the radio with the engine cold and then try to start it.

Problem is that this doesn't supply quite enough amperage for electric only operation. Thats why Fords also use a stove to supply heated air. Then aftermarket chokes like Holleys are designed for a 12v supply and would take to long to open with a 7v supply.

Fords solution in 1985 for the Bronco II and F150 with the 351 HO was to use the stator supply to activate a relay which in turn supplied 12v to the choke. This is probably the easiest solution.

Next most difficult would be to use a GM oil pressure switch off the mid eighties trucks. Thias would require some adapters over by the oil pressure sender. Probably get the extension for the gauge sender then either drill and tap for the GM switch, or get a tee install that so you can have the switch and your sender.

HTH
 
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