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Discussion Starter #1
013.jpg Hello all.
I havent been around much lately. I have been pluggin away on my 69 vert for about a year and a half now. I will post some progress pics soon. Just received a PST front end kit for the machine for $259 on ebay. Seems pretty good! Only questions I have (never having done this before) is what the hell are the two units on the left of my photo from the kit? I saw in a pic on ECI post that they looked to be on the ends of the upper control arm bushings? Is this correct? I am not seeing how they would fit on there? Also my upper ball joint in the pic appears to have no grease in it and does not have any hole to put a nipple? Aaaaah....... nipples. Anyway any thoughts? I squeeze the rubber boot and it justs blows some air out of it. Hope you are all well. Any assistance would be appreciated. Bish.

Oh yeah, in a perfect world, instuctions for the kit would be awesome if somebody has any.There is nothing on the PST website under tech tips. Thanks
 

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Many moons ago (1996), I purchased a front end rebuild kit for my 1969. It came with a video. They should probably come with a DVD now a days.
 

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Yep, the nuts are the bushings for the UCA dog bone (that should be included as well in a kit). I shudder at the thought of trying to put the dogbone/bushings in without stripping the arms. I recommend buying complete arms for the money/trouble. Perhaps too late for you, but trust me on this that it is the case.

Regards,

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys,
Sorry Bob what was your thoughts on the upper ball joint with no grease or nipple? Thanks, Bish
 

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Bish,

I understand that the new ball joints are permanently greased (which I don't believe/like) and I also understand that even the ones with zerks (like in the (Scott Drake?) arms I bought), the zerk is for show only. I can sort of attest to this as one arm/ball joint on my arms would not take grease no matter how I tried. To the point that the grease gun had such pressure in the line that I actually broke the zerk fitting off in the ball joint trying to remove the hose. Replaced the zerk and eventually got some grease to go in by moving the joint stud around. The other side seemed to grease normally. So anyway, that is what I have on the current ball joints, at least the ones in my arms. Maybe others have something to share.

Regards,

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #6
UUUUUoooooh. Sheep dip. No wonder I was having trouble getting the upper control arm bushing figured out! What I have on my car is not stock! This is challenging enough without these kinda things tripping me up. Here is a pic of my a arm with the bushing pulled out. Apparently it is quite different to what I need to have, to install the hex head bushing jobbers. I will either have to get the appropriate replacement for what I have or get a different upper control arm that will work with my new parts. I spoke to a guy at PST and he was quite helpful. I would recommend them. 003.jpg 001.jpg

Bob,
Thankyou sir,
I am just hoping my ball joints do contain some grease. I would swear they do not have any.
I am not sure why the pictures did that!
 

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Hmmm,
Looks like you have a bit of a problem.

I differ from Bob (sorry Bob) in the area of used upper control arms. I refuse to buy junk, and that's all that is offered in complete arms.

Only use Moog parts... 30 years and over 100 front ends done, no problems w/ Moog! Assemble the shaft kit and tack weld the nuts to the arm. The threads in the arm are really not threads or much of them. The shaft has the threads that matter. Always use special zerks, and greese before assembly.

Too bad you not a bit closer to Colorado! ;-)



UUUUUoooooh. Sheep dip. No wonder I was having trouble getting the upper control arm bushing figured out! What I have on my car is not stock! This is challenging enough without these kinda things tripping me up. Here is a pic of my a arm with the bushing pulled out. Apparently it is quite different to what I need to have, to install the hex head bushing jobbers. I will either have to get the appropriate replacement for what I have or get a different upper control arm that will work with my new parts. I spoke to a guy at PST and he was quite helpful. I would recommend them. View attachment 27954 View attachment 27952

Bob,
Thankyou sir,
I am just hoping my ball joints do contain some grease. I would swear they do not have any.
I am not sure why the pictures did that!
 

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...I differ from Bob (sorry Bob) in the area of used upper control arms. I refuse to buy junk, and that's all that is offered in complete arms....
No problem Bill, nothing wrong with differing opinions. However, I think you are mistaken that there are only junk control arms available out there. This is what I am referring to (and what I used) and I believe these are what WCCC sells as a "concours" UCA (they sell a lesser arm as well).

Regards,

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks guys. Unfortunately I now have new upper ball joints and a control arm bushing set for a control arm that won't accept the new bushings. So I either have to buy a whole new control arm with new stuff, or just find some control arms that do accomodate the bushings I have. I am going to talk to my local cougar guy. I cant imagine crusty old control arms being worth too much. Keep in mind I am on a little more budget build than some of you guys. Bish
 

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Not sure if this would be the time or place but I purchased the new Upper and lower arms from WCCC. I still have both upper and lower sitting out in the barn. I am just guessing the ball joints and bushings are worn. I wasn't going to re-assemble with them anyway. They are from a 68 XR7 390 car. Would they be of any use to anyone? Or should I just consider scrapping them?
 

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Whereas the front end parts we sell are "spot on" and VERY close to original, original was not so hot... You are lucky to get 100k miles out of an original front end. For myself and how I drive my Cougar and for the amount of miles I put on my car I am very happy with the components we offer. But... If I were Cougar Bill who drives his car to the limit often, MOOG or one of the other systems like TCP would be the way to go.


 

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moog problem solver like the set wccc shows on their site, btw that 4 bolt upper ball joint is not right for the 69,
 

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moog problem solver like the set wccc shows on their site, btw that 4 bolt upper ball joint is not right for the 69,
Actually Justin, I believe 4 rivets/bolts is correct for '67-'69 and '70 used the 3 rivet/bolt.
 

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mine has 3 bolts, and they are orginal.
 

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moog problem solver like the set wccc shows on their site...
http://www.cougarpartscatalog.com/moogk8233.html

So, I don't quite get it. I thought the traditional rubber bushing type pivot was a different arm altogether. No one (Justin or WCCC site) says it, but is this kit meant to somehow go into an original style arm (W/screw in pivot nuts)? Seems odd when there are "threads" (like Bill says, poor) in the arm hole for the nut to screw into, doesn't seem like the press in bushings would go in there without machining to proper size. Or, was there a year which had the bushing type arms OEM? '67?

So what's the deal?

And, to get back on track/topic, what Bish outta do (IMO) is return the pivot kits he can't use and get the right ones for his arms.

Regards,

Bob
 

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bob that is the kit that i used on mine , the bushings press in the holes where the orginal style screw in. (it was a pia)
 

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Yep, return them, then go buy this kit. :)
The guy's on a budget! Moog would be the better choice in this case.

I do like my Opentracker roller spring seats though!
 

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bob that is the kit that i used on mine , the bushings press in the holes where the orginal style screw in. (it was a pia)
I kinda had a hunch that this was what was done to use those bushings. What exactly did you have to do to make them fit (and fit tightly)? I have seen the "semi-threaded" openings in the arms, it looks a long way from a press fit for a rubber bushing, but I don't know how close the OD of the bushing is to the ID of the "semi-threaded" arm either.
 

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well this part # has been out there for a long time. the instructions that were with mine said there was stops in the bushing sleeves , but mine did not have any. what i did with mine, is used a ball joint press to snug the one side. assembled the shaft and other bushing and put the other end in my press. was very hard to do .if i were do it again i would ream the holes out a bit before starting assembly. the problem with using my press is the deflection from the rubber in the bushings. i had to use a pair of 1 /1/8, 3/4 inch drive sockets to try to seat them tightly. i think i actually tweeked the arms a bit as well. i know its supposed to be a compression fit. i dont like there is no hole for grease in the bar for the rods . the ends just go into metal sleeves inside the bushings. otherwise i am happy with them. back to the 4 vs 3 bolt ball joints. when i orginally ordered my front end parts 3ish years ago, they didnt even ask me and i ended up with 4 bolt ones. my car has the 3 bolt. i cant tell you the build date right off , but will look tomamrow.
 
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