[COUGRRRMAN]

Getting ready to replace my alternator.
There have been several things written about using a GM alternator with mods to fit the 67-70 Fords and Mercs because of the fact that our Autolite/motorcraft alternators are underamped and do not put out enough juice at idle and low RPMS. this of course makes the wipers slow down, the lights dim, and the sequential turn signals not work at all or properly at low RPM or idles situations.
I would rather not use a GM part. I know there is a higher amp alternator ( I think it is 65 amp) from Autolite.
Is this the best choice or is there a better alternative.
Say an aftermarket alternator that puts out plenty of good juice at idle and does not fry the voltage regulator?
Speak up or forever hold your amps..

What do you think everyone??

 

[jnorwich]

what about Powermaster...I think they make one to fit our cats.

Jim

 

[COUGRRRMAN]

Powermaster??
Never heard of them.
Got a website?

 

[68calypso]

I purchased a rebuilt unit from a compny called beavco in Illinois. It is 105 amps (I think, its been a while since I bought it) , looks and hooks up like a stock unit. I purchased it on ebay, they're # is 888-384-7430. So far I have not had any problems with my charging system, and I can tell the difference when the headlights are on.

 

[bruter]

Here's Powermaster's website... http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/ . Logan put one in his 69.

 

[COUGRRRMAN]

Thanks. I have some options now. The original Autolite's did have a problem at idle so a newer upgrade is a definate improvement.

 

[Local Hero]

I am in the process of installing the Powermaster 100 amp unit for early Fords. A few tidbits: It's based on the GM 12si model case but will bolt right up to the stock Ford brackets. It also has an internal regulator which will eliminate the external one. You also have the option of wiring it up as a one-wire or three-wire set-up. That topic has already been discussed here so a Search for that thread will detail that discussion.

I can't give you and results though since the engine isn't in the car yet. I'm still revamping the wiring harness.

Mark

 

[TheRktmn]

I just (last night) converted my original 60A alternator to 105A using a kit from http://www.alternatorparts.com/ . I purchased the conversion kit and new bearings for $56.00 with shipping. Had it tested at Autozone - works like a champ. The directions were real easy to follow, it only took about 1 hour to install, using regular hand tools, and I had never done one before.
Bolt it back on the engine, hook up the wires and you can't tell the difference.

 

[bruter]

Hey, cool stuff Bob! When they refer to the G1 standard case, I guess they mean the alternator case that came standard with the coug? Did you notice the difference in output?

 

[72cat]

I just had my autolite rewired to about 65amps, it was about 35amps, plus a couple of other things fixed on it, was easier than trying to get another Autolite here to fit the cougar. $50.
BTW to all of you who remember my post re my alternator not charging, one of the problems was with the solenoid, the wires were not making proper contact so the starter was putting the alternator under undue strain, or at least thats the way I understood it.

 

[COUGRRRMAN]

Hey RKTNN. Hope you keep us posted on the long term durability of your 105 amp upgrade. I may try it. Any problems out of your stock voltage regulator??
C-MAN....

 

[70XR7ConvertCat]

Bob,

If you can't tell the difference after your upgrade, is that a good thing or a bad thing? What I mean is you should be able to tell the difference, brighter lights, etc., etc..

Steve C.

 

[TheRktmn]

I have not run the car with the alternator yet. I had it tested for output at a local auto parts chain and the guy freaked because it was "over charging". I guess that means that I did it right...
I asked about the stock regulator before I bought the kit and was told that the regulator is basically a sensing switch that will open and close as the voltage changes in the battery. I was assured that it would not be a problem.
Steve: I meant that someone looking at the alternator in the car would not be able to tell that it was not an original low amp alternator.
I will keep everyone here informed as to what happens, good or bad once I fire up the engine.
BTW - this conversion and the company were recommended on the FordMuscle.com forum. Apparently guys there have been real happy with them.

 

[xr7gt]

AMK Autolite Alternator

My 2¢

 

[TheRktmn]

Re: AMK Autolite Alternator

My 2¢

When I looked at AMK the highest output was 61A and it was more like 20000¢ + shipping. :lol2:

 

[xr7gt]

Yeah I think I paid something like 1750000¢
But its just pennies, right?
or is it 2¢ is all I had left :lol2:

 

[bruter]

Hey Bob,

Did you get a chance to test run the alternator upgrade?

 

[TheRktmn]

The exhaust goes on Monday (6/2) - hopefully I will be able to tell you something on Tuesday!

 

[cougarguy]

im running a gm in the tbird as it is the conversion kit sold by casco. it sure beats a generator let me tell you.

 

[TheRktmn]

Update

I just (last night) converted my original 60A alternator to 105A using a kit from http://www.alternatorparts.com/ . I purchased the conversion kit and new bearings for $56.00 with shipping. Had it tested at Autozone - works like a champ. The directions were real easy to follow, it only took about 1 hour to install, using regular hand tools, and I had never done one before.
Bolt it back on the engine, hook up the wires and you can't tell the difference.

Here's an update on the alternator upgrade:
The car has been running for about a week now (no, Paul, not continuously ) and at idle (700 RPM) with or without high beams on the battery sits at 14.2 volts.
The amp gauge actually registers a slight charge which is amazing. I am so used to those being a dead gauge unless you have a horrific discharge.
I am using the stock points type voltage regulator and original wiring.
Longest run at sustained RPMs has been 30 minutes at 2000-2700 and the wiring has not gotten hot.
I did not have any high draw items connected, no fans or pumps or amplifiers so that may make a difference, but with the car idling with high beams, brake lights and radio on the rear turn signals still sequence normally and the lights don't dim. That makes it worth it to me.
As I stated earlier in the thread, using the original case, wiring and regulator makes the whole system look original so anyone into points shows can do the conversion and not worry about losing points.
So I guess for what it's worth I give the kit a "thumbs up".