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Discussion Starter #1
I started out what looked to be a bad water pump gasket leaking all my coolant out. I bought new gaskets for $3.50 and got all my wrenches handy. I thought I might get lucky and not even have to pull the water pump all the way out. As you might guess things went bad I ended up taking off the steering pump, alternator, vacuum advance, and thermostat. and pulling the shroud, belts, fan, and pump all out at the same time.

The worst part the bolt located furthest right when looking at it was really stubborn and broke on the way out. Now I have a broken piece in either the timing cover or engine block depending how long this thing is.

The bolts were so badly corroded I ordered a new kit from mustangs unlimited I just hope they are good quality and not like some of the other stuff they carry. The engine was rebuilt in 2007 and by the looks of it I don't think the gaskets were replaced someone just added some sealer and slapped them together.

I ran a wire brush and razor over the old gasket to get it off but its really on there I'm going to 150 grit sand paper next. I chased the threads in the timing cover with a 5/16 tap. Does the 5/16 refer to the shank size? My next move is to buy a drill guide and extractor from McMaster Carr and I want to make sure I get the right drill guide for the hole. I got my hands on a right angle so I can use my power drill.

http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=WP305+01
 

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I can't tell which one is broken - so it must be flush with the block I take it? You have 2 options but one depends on if you have a mig welder or not.....you could drill a small hole down the center of it and carefully grease around the hole - clamp/hold a nut over it in such a way that you can run a bead down into the hole and fill the nut up until it glows cherry red - let it cool and then back tha puppy out. Otherwise use your other bolts as a guide as to how deep to drill - then start drilling it out in small incriments until you are close to the edges - then before you try using an easy out - use a cold chisel to try collapsing the bolt in on ones side then tap it around and walk it out to where you can grab it with vice gripsor crush it and pull it out. Run a tap in to all your threads (use you bolts to be sure correct thread pitch first!) to clean them up. Get yourself some fresh bolts and be sure to use some anti-sieze compund on them......good luck!! If the chisel doesn't work then go to the easy out - and don't break it!! LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #4
No it's not broke off flush it's about 2 1/2 inches in, it's the hole with all the gunk in it.
 

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I feel your pain being a member of the broken bolt club. I got lucky with mine, I tapped the center and used a left handed drill bit to slowly back the bolt out. Sounds like you need to reaaly lube it, maybe some PB Blaster , Good Luck :smoke:
 

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OH - yeah I suppose you are stuck with drilling it and easy out. I have a set of left hand drill bits for just this type of stuff but honestly I never got lucky enough that the drill bit backed it out. Like Mark says - soak the thing in PB for a good amount of time maybe hit it with a torch to heat it up and soak it down agian before you try to get it out........xing our fingers.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I tried to drill the broken bolt out but it wouldn't work I broke the drill bit. I decided that my best course of action was to remove the cover to the timing chain, so off comes the fuel pump, oil pan, pulley, and harmonic balancer. I took the cover off and got the broken bolt out and good thing I did the cover doesn't look like it would have lasted much longer. 100_3197.jpg 100_3193.jpg 100_3196.jpg 100_3188.jpg
 

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Yeah she was pretty galled up/corroded huh! Wen you put it back together use no-ox on those bolts and smear 'em down good. That will help prevent that next time (hope there won't be a next time but....) Be sure to use the correct length bolts where needed to avoid bottoming out or anything.....glad you got it one way or another
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Good advice badcat

I ordered a new oil pan and timing chain cover from mustangs unlimited. I beat the old oil pan up getting it off and I'm afraid its going to leak oil once I get everything back together.

I just work on it a little everyday and its getting there, put the new timing cover on with new seals and new seals around the fuel pump. Installed the harmonic balancer and pulley next step is either cleaning up the bottom and getting the oil pan on or installing shroud water pump and fan.

Things to do:
oil pan
water pump/shroud/fan
power steering pump
alternator
hoses
new engine oil
new coolant
 

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Make sure the arm on your fuel pump goes under the cam - it's easy to get it over depending on what position it was in. (if you don't get any fuel you'll know.....) Be sure to follow the torque specs and follow the sequence when you install your pan. Most leakers are because they get over-tightened and squish the cork out to much. If you use any sealant it's best to use it only on the block side in case you need to remove the pan again for some reason and it helps hold it in place anyway. Leaking points tend to be the corners by the journals - a dab on top and bottom helps there too. If you took out the pump - don't forget it FIRST! LOL One time dad and I got everything back together on his truck and he looks in the box and saw the pump in there after we buttoned it all back up!! S>O>B
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I broke the oil dip stick tube trying to unscrew it form the old timing chain cover so I'm going to need to buy a new one unless someone on here has an extra they are willing to sell. I don't know if it's even threaded it might just be pressed in there but I don't know.

Anyways things are progressing I have the water pump back on without accessories or the fan shroud tightened down bringing me to the two questions I have.

Can I put the shroud on upside down?
Is someone willing to take a picture of their belts to give me an idea of which one goes where.
 

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Dipstick tube is pressed in.....easier to do with the TC off - but you may be able to run sheet metal screw in a ways and pull it.......a slide hammer would be handy.
 

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Are the replacement bolts supposed to be an anti corrosion thing? Or just bolts? That's cool that they included a guide, by length illustration...
 

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All that and you put the old water pump back on?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I thought about using a new water pump but it's not original and has been replaced before so I thought it really didn't need it.

I got the new oil pan on it's all sealed up and I think it's ready to go. Need to still order the new dip stick and get the power pump back in.
 

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All that and you put the old water pump back on?
I thought about using a new water pump but it's not original and has been replaced before so I thought it really didn't need it.

I got the new oil pan on it's all sealed up and I think it's ready to go. Need to still order the new dip stick and get the power pump back in.
I've replaced so many water pumps on 302 and 5.0L engines. It's the one thing that I can count on in life....that they'll go bad. Having a lifetime warranty on the pumps in nice. I have a hand drawn sketch taped to the lid of my tool box with all the bolt holes numbered. It's come in handy many, many times allowing me to quickly install the bolts after covering BOTH sides of ALL the gaskets with Permatex Ultra Blue silicone sealant. I also cover the threads and shanks of all the bolts that surround the water passage openings. The silicone not only prevents the bolt from corroding, it also acts as a thread lubricant.

Ford did a much better job designing the bolts on the 5.0L engines. Some of the bolts have a stud coming FWD from the head. This allows you to install the support brackets for the alternator and the power steering pump after you've already installed the water pump bolts. You're not trying to hang three things at once.

http://c1385782.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/lrs-8501bhdw_3372.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Are the replacement bolts supposed to be an anti corrosion thing? Or just bolts? That's cool that they included a guide, by length illustration...
Threre are 9 bolts in the kit and they cost close to $36 to buy and shipped to me. I did some quick math that $4 a bolt! I could have gone down to my local hardware store and bought them for 1/2 or 1/4 of that price, but also got washers and the drawing which is worth about $30 alone since I wasn't smart enough to make a cheat sheet coming off.

I got the oil pan and power steering pump on this week, learned a couple of things along the way like the correct orintation of the fans cowlinging (there is a top and bottom to it). There is also some sort of bracket on the back of the steering pump it was sitting all alone in my box of parts after I had the pump installed looks pretty useless but I took everything apart again to put it on.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
It's two steps forward and one step back with this project. I was having problems with the alternator there must have been some dissimilar metal galling or corrosion with the bolt that holds the tension adjustment for the alternator. I got it loose enough to just remove the support but I could not make it budge putting it back together. I decided to take out the whole alternator to fix it. Coming out I broke a pin connector in the three pin cord so I need to fix that problem. Once the alternator was out I hit the threads with some PB blaster and worked that bolt back and forth until it came out. I ran a tap through the hole to chaser the threads and got out some good gunk after that things went smoothly. I put it all back together with ant seize.

I got the water hoses all connected and the started filling with coolant when I saw a brand new thermostat just hanging out on the work bench. I had to take the housing off and insert the thermostat into the car, like I was saying two steps forawrd one step back. 100_3316.jpg 100_3320.jpg
 
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