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Congrats! Nice to be able to test fire.& troubleshoot on the stand. P.s. I thought maybe you were going for a bugs bunny or curly immitation in your title, "it woiks!" Hehe
 

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Always nice to hear a new motor fire up! I've never started on on a stand. Let's have some engine specs!

One thing about those Edelbrock valve covers though... I have them on my 393W, and even with a smooth-running cam, those fake boltheads on the top disappeared after a few hundred miles. They just have knurled shanks and only hold by 1/8" or so, so you might want to yank them now and secure them better with LocTite or epoxy... Since most of mine were gone, I just yanked out the two or three that were left. And since I am forced to drive the car year round (in Cleveland winters), the road salt took a toll on the polished covers, so I painted them semi-gloss black. I kinda like the classic rod look - they remind me of the old-school black crinkle-finish Mickey Thompson covers with sanded ribs...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I got carried away on my typing:)

It's a 408 short block. I bought a machined block from Woody and a balanced rotating assembly, then wimped out and let him assemble it. The heads are FAC 190, again from Woody. You can get them from him with a better spring package than what Summit sells. Cam is a comp cams xr-282 (his recomendation). Comp gold roller rockers. Carb...Holley street avenger 670 cfm. Dist is Accel with built in ignition. ARP studs all over the place. Standard melling oil pump from Precision Oil Pumps with arp drive shaft, set of arp studs down there also. Smith Brothers push rods.

Since this isn't a race car. I did cut some corners and got the cast steel scat crank and standard I beam rods. Probe pistons etc.

The old alternator is on there only to turn the water pump, it's gettin replaced with a 3G.

Gonna finish the radiator stand today so I can fill it up and let it run longer than 15 seconds. It'll be just as ghetto as the engine stand. Only thing invested in the stands are lag screws, nails and deck screws. The 4x4 and 2x4's were pick me ups. It's amazing what some business throw away.

gonna throw some mufflers on it too, Damn thing is hard on the ears.

The headers created a major pain in the butt on the driver side, it's got 3 different style fasteners holding it on. Valve covers were no picnic either. Bought some nice ARP stainless studs, and they don't work in the upper corners, Because of the shape of the casting, the nuts won't go on. So...Stainless hex head from the home depot.
 

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Contributing Sr Motorhead
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LOL! I did the same thing with the ARP valve cover studs with those covers - Didn't fit. Then I went down to my local hardware store and bought some good ol' stainless socket head screws, stainless washers and some long shank, ball-tip Allen wrenches.

BTW, I'm now running a Comp Cams XR-276 retrofit hydraulic roller cam in my all-cast 9.5:1 393W. Same carb. Looks like a Performer RPM intake on yours as well. Mine has a real-world track-proven 375 horsepower to the ground (figure 435 crank hp) based on my ET/MPH. Not bad at all for a 87-octane pump gas motor!
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Wanted to run it for awhile first cuz once it's in the car I don't wanna have to take it out again in case something is wrong..and I don't have to bend over quite so far to fiddle with carb and timing. I ain't as young as I used to be

http://s731.photobucket.com/albums/ww313/Timt49/?action=view&current=P6190356.mp4

Don't have any idea as to what HP is gonna be, didn't have any horsepower goals. I started with the idea of the 393 as just alittle bigger 351. Woody talked me out of it in a hurry (maybe cause he was phasing out the 393 kits, don't know) There wasn't enough $$$ difference between the 393 and 408 to worry about. Woody also recommended the cam and I gotta admit I was worried that it was gonna be too stiff, but I went with it on his say so. just hope the hood is gonna close when I finally get it in the car.
 

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393W kits use stock (heavy) 302 pistons and are a PITA to balance to 28in/oz imbalance that the stock 351 had. My 393W crank needed four slugs of 'Mallory metal' to get it to balance. The 408 kits use lighter pistons. If I was to do it today, I'd use one of the 408 or 418 kits...
 

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There's nothing better than the smell of freshly cooked high temp paint in the morning!! ;>) Glad to see the new beginings taking shape!
 

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It's a 408 short block. I bought a machined block from Woody and a balanced rotating assembly, then wimped out and let him assemble it. The heads are FAC 190, again from Woody. You can get them from him with a better spring package than what Summit sells. Cam is a comp cams xr-282 (his recomendation). Comp gold roller rockers. Carb...Holley street avenger 670 cfm. Dist is Accel with built in ignition. ARP studs all over the place. Standard melling oil pump from Precision Oil Pumps with arp drive shaft, set of arp studs down there also. Smith Brothers push rods.
So what did this cost you if you don't mind me asking? And who's woody?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Jim Woods Fordstrokers.com. Cost? I'd have to add up reciepts, but I would hazard a quess at around 5 grand. I wouldn't hesitate to have Woody build something else if I could afford it. He does good work.

Over all the car still ain't done. I want to clean up the engine compartment, replace upper and lower control arms, new tires. Probably renew the brakes.

Then there is the matter of the tranny ( maybe an aod) and rear end. But that's later down the road.
 
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