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Hey! Im getting closer to finshing my xr7g Recreation! Clone! or resto mod! I do have 18,s on it! Hurst rachet shifter, Headers alum raidator and autometer gauges 4 channel amp and sub! So its probably closer to a resto mod! Beings the acuators leak and need to be replaced I was thinking about going with the electic upgrade way!So my question is there a kit that can be purchased with everything needed to do the upgrade? And is that a better way to go!
 

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As of now it looks like 3 options.

1st, if you want to go original go with Don Rush at west coast classic cougars. New remanufactured everything.http://www.cougarpartscatalog.com/67grillkit.html

2nd Watch for this, electric motors inside of original vacuum motor cases from rocketman http://www.rccinnovations.com/Tachs.php

3rd There's always the Probe electric motors and brackets that you will have to locate and fab to do the conversion.

My choice would be 1st or 2nd.
 

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Graeserhp, you might try to contact 70CougarKid by PMing him(he's in Columbia, MO), he's doing a electric headlight conversion kit last time I heard. John
 

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I made my own and didn't use any of the above help. In my opinion is it was fun, and no offense to others who need that original look but I couldn't afford the cost of the original equipment. My car's a plain-jain 67' so why the heck? lol I called T Rossen Robotics and ordered 2 of the 4 inch stroke actuators. They push and or pull 110lbs a piece so ice will never be an issue. They are water resistant and dust proof. Usually they are used on farm equipment so your show car will be a friendly place for them. And if anyone knows the headlight doors they know it takes approximately 3 inches of stroke to open them and then another 3 to close. Thats why I bought the dual actuator programmer and programmed them to stop at the right point. This eliminates the needs for the factory bumpers that are always shot. You will also be able to get rid of the springs that are rusty as well. I made 2 drop brackets and cut a hole in each headlight housing where the factory vacuum actuators existed. Bolted my actuators to the brackets, the brackets to the housings and there ya go. No more vacuum hose nightmare or 2 switches that will go bad eventually. I have a cleaned up engine bay and the ability to access my actuators without taking off the valance, bumper, ect. I did however have to rig up 2 relays for the actuators to open and close in coherence with the light switch. Total amount of money invested: $350. $110 for each actuator, $50 for the programmer, $30 for the extended wire harness and a little more for the relays. Obviously some man hours and head scratching involved. Good luck!
 

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I made my own and didn't use any of the above help. In my opinion is it was fun, and no offense to others who need that original look but I couldn't afford the cost of the original equipment. My car's a plain-jain 67' so why the heck? lol I called T Rossen Robotics and ordered 2 of the 4 inch stroke actuators. They push and or pull 110lbs a piece so ice will never be an issue. They are water resistant and dust proof. Usually they are used on farm equipment so your show car will be a friendly place for them. And if anyone knows the headlight doors they know it takes approximately 3 inches of stroke to open them and then another 3 to close. Thats why I bought the dual actuator programmer and programmed them to stop at the right point. This eliminates the needs for the factory bumpers that are always shot. You will also be able to get rid of the springs that are rusty as well. I made 2 drop brackets and cut a hole in each headlight housing where the factory vacuum actuators existed. Bolted my actuators to the brackets, the brackets to the housings and there ya go. No more vacuum hose nightmare or 2 switches that will go bad eventually. I have a cleaned up engine bay and the ability to access my actuators without taking off the valance, bumper, ect. I did however have to rig up 2 relays for the actuators to open and close in coherence with the light switch. Total amount of money invested: $350. $110 for each actuator, $50 for the programmer, $30 for the extended wire harness and a little more for the relays. Obviously some man hours and head scratching involved. Good luck!

Make that four options...

Could you post some pictures of the stroke actuators and the finished install? A youtube video would be great too to see how fast they work. If you lost power (dead battery) would you have to reprogram the dual actuator programmer?
That's a small price to pay to get rid of all the headaches.
 

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Hey Man
i went with the probe conversion works perfect no mods to the car 68 cat .Iwired them with remote control to open, realy gets peoples attention at the shows.
Catly
 

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Catman,
I'll try for a youtube video but I'll have to get help settin' it all up from my cpu buddy cuz I don't have a clue. Also the actuators have memory, potentiometers, and limit switches. I have a pic of 1 actuator installed without the headlights on in my photo album in my profile.
Catly,
Ya if the probes require no modification at all that'd def be the way to go. What'd that run ya roughly and how did ya get the probe motors? junk yard or does Ford still make new ones? I was gonna look into that but found these actuators on google and forgot what my original plans were. lol
 
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