Mercury Cougar Owners banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I've done some stupid things in my life but not marking all the vacuum lines ranks right up there at the top. I have the headlights working properly now but the tilt away steering is doing some odd things. If I open the door with the car running the steering wheel pops up. If I open the door with the car off the steering wheel doesn't move. Any help would be greatly appreciated pics, diagrams, boot to the head. The car is a '69 XR-7. There is plenty of vacuum lines coming from the firewall that I'm not sure what they are. I'm sure one is from a reservoir that needs to be connected to the tilt steering, not from an active port like I seem to have it right now. Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,717 Posts
The vacuum reservoir for tilt-away is under the battery tray. One hose connects from there to a check valve at the rear of the engine compartment. The check valve has 3 nipples. The reservoir line and the line that goes thru the firewall are on the two-nipple side. The single nipple side has a hose to vacuum source on the intake manifold. The hose that passes thru the firewall connects to a relay-controlled valve which is on the same bracket as the rest of the tilt-away stuff. A very short hose then goes from the valve to the vacuum motor that tugs on the release cable.

The tilt-away should not operate when the engine is running. You might have bypassed the relay-controlled valve and connected the firewall hose directly to the vacuum motor. Once you have all your lines confirmed, we can troubleshoot further.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
O.K. that's working properly now, thanks. There is a metal tube coming up the bellhousing I assume it's for the trans. Where does it connect? Will any vacuum port work?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,950 Posts
Metal tube? Sounds like the trans dipstick tube (is it missing)? The only vac line on the trans would be the modulator and it's typically rubber all the way as far as I know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,717 Posts
Mine has a metal tube (1969 C-6). It has rubber hoses on each end. If I recall correctly, it hooks up to a multi-port brass fitting near the rear of the intake manifold that also provides vacuum for heater/ac controls, tilt-away, etc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,950 Posts
Huh that must be a heat protection thing for cars that had all the extra goodies I wonder? Good to know, if I ever have a highly optioned one.... Is the entry point that low down on the firewall though? Or does it go through the air conditioner holes?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,717 Posts
The modulator vacuum line does not pass through the firewall. It runs along the top/side of the transmission case from the modulator to the top of the bellhousing. I don't think it has anything to do with options. I think OEM was metal since that length of rubber would be hard to keep in place and more prone to getting damaged/wearing out. I didn't check the Master Parts Catalog to be sure, but I bet the full length rubber ones you've seen are not original. WCCC sells reproductions (drop-shipped, probably from Fine Lines) - search for Transmission Modulator Line.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
There is also a metal line that comes from the bottom of the exhaust manifold on the passenger side. What does it go to? An Vacuum 001.jpg Vacuum 002.jpg d what is it for? Picture one shows the exhaust manifold tube. The second pic shows the back of the motor where the trans tube comes up. Took the car for a quick drive today, shifts really hard like it had a shift kit (which it doesn't), and won't go into third unless you really rev it (@70 mph). I have the 351 W with FMX, changed the 2v manifold for a stock 4v. I am also using a demon carb with no kick down rod. Is it vacuum or kick down problem I am having?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,950 Posts
Here's a good article on the AT's: http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/mump_1203_understanding_automatic_transmissions/viewall.html

First i would check that you do have vaccuum at the modulator (which is adjustable btw)
Take a good look at your fluid - see if it's still red and not brown and burnt smelling. if you pull the hose on the modulator you can see a "slot" where the thing can be adjusted to change you shift points....they say no more than 3 turns at most though.....if that doesn't help, nothing will short of a teardown. Hope that isn't the case though! (Any adjustments you do - make them at operating temp btw.) Are you noticing any differences at cold vs. hot?

typically when an fmx has governor problems it's most likely because of trash and metal shavings from the pump coming apart and will generally result in the trans shifting late not early, and having erratic shifts or not wanting to shift from 2nd to 3rd at all and sometimes getting stuck in 3rd gear. in extreme cases it can allow the governor to cease functioning and allow the trans to downshift from 3rd to first during WOT
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top