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I RECENTLY BOUGHT A 70 XR7 AND HEADLIGHT COVERS STAYED OPEN ALL THE TIME. I CHECKED THE HEADLIGHT SWITCH AND THERE IS A MESS OF HISSING AT THE SWITCH.( ISUPPOSE A LEAK IN THE SWITCH.)SO I HOOK THE WHITE VACCUUM HOSE DIRECTLY TO THE YELLOW HOSE VIA VACCUM TUBE SPLICE AND VOILA , THE COVERS CLOSED WITH VACCUM BUILDUP. BUT NOW I HEAR A HISS AROUND THE RUBBER BELLOWS ON TOP OF THE VACUUM MOTOR. AND A MINUTE OR TWO LATER THE COVERS MIGRATE BACK UP. I TAKE IT THAT THE VACUUM IS NOW NOT HOLDING IN THE VAC MOTOR DUE TO OLD RUBBER BELLOWS.

MY QUESTION IS DOES ANYONE KNOW IF YOU CAN JUST REPLACE THAT BELLOWS PART TO SEAL THE LEAK OR DOES THE WHOLE MOTOR HAVE TO BE REPLACED? IS IT CORRECT THAT THE MOTOR ACTUALLY HOLDS SOME VACUUM TO HOLD THE COVERS DOWN ONCE THE LIGHT SWITCH IS TURNED OFF AND THE SEPARATE TANK RESERVOIR HOLDS THE VACCUUM TO RAISE THE COVERS?

THANKS!
 

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You know what I have the same problem with my 69 XR7. They are closed when I drove but I hear a hissing sound. Then when I kill the engine the slowly creep up. WTF? Please someone answer this problem thats been bothering me for some time. :1zhelp:
 

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Replace the motor

You have to have the vacuum motor rebuilt professionally. There is no way to replace the rubber bellows yourself. All the majot Cougar part vendors offer this service for about $89.95 plus shipping both directions. Most keep rebuilt units in stock and will ship as soon as your core arrives.
 

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Bellows

The bellows are just to keep dust out. The problem is with the diaphragm on the inside.
As Royce said, there are several services to R&R your unit.

Bill
 

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Almost the same problem?

I have a similar problem. When the vacuum is energized along the green line to the vacuum motor I hear a significant hissing at the switch coming back through the yellow line. When the lights are shut off the hissing at the switch goes away and the covers stay down for better than a whole 36 hours. Do I still have a vacuum motor leak (but not as bad) or where else do I look?
:1zhelp: :1zhelp: :1zhelp: :1zhelp: :1zhelp: :1zhelp: :1zhelp:
 

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When trouble shooting the system always check the vacume check valve that prevents a vacume build up in the reservoir can from being lost.when you turn your car off. This small pot metal valve is usually located on fire wall as the main vacume line comes off the intake manifold. Test the check valve by applying gentle suction to an end. You should be only able to have suction one way. Also make sure you you have this valve postioned in the correct direction of the line to hold a vacume. Try this first before you have each pod restored for about $80.00 each.
DONT FORGET TO CHECK FOR LEAKS IN YOUR RESERVOIR TANK - PRESSURIZE TANK AND HOLD UNDER WATER - CHECK FOR BUBBLES. YOU MAY WANT TO USE A HAND PUMP USED FOR BLEEDING BRAKES TO TEST AND PRESSURIZE THE TANK.

JON
 

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katmandunow

i have taken apart the vaccum motor (69/70) in front of cougar and with correspondence of experienced mechanics on this....
1. The Bellows(boot)on the shaft that pulls door shaft open and shut....is a dust cover only.....if the seal underneath the bellows(boot dust cover) is leaking.....then the bellows(boot dust cover)will collapse inwards.....acting like it is holding the vaccum...
2. If you can take off the ring at the bottom of shaft, which holds down the bellow(boot dust cover)...underneath (on some motors)will protrude a rubber neck....lubricate with axle grease and take a small plastic tie(one that locks)and secure around the rubber neck.....This is a quick fix...and may last one day to indefinite....THIS IS WHAT IS REBUILT ON THIS MOTOR...THAT RUBBER SEAL.....
3. There is a one way valve that comes off from the tee vaccum on back firewall that keeps vaccum from entering back into engine...sometimes this goes bad.....connects to two lines..one to the vaccum canister on front left fender...other goes to light switch under dash(headlight switch)
4.from my asking around.....the headlight switch rarely goes out
5.then you have the vaccum canister itself....unless under extreme exsposure of elements...will rust/leak...then you take J.B. weld and paste that around the seam of tank....
 
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