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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

My Cougar is running a 351 Cleaveland in it (so not original motor obviously) and I watched a video by Don Rush online on how to route the Vacuum lines for the lights up front. Like a dumb ass, I just ripped off most of the lines running to the “Vacuum Solenoid Valve” and proceeded to route them as the video instructed.

However, once I had the lines correctly installed (so I thought), the car wouldn’t start anymore.

I have attached one large pic of the Vacuum Line Route along with a few smaller rez pics from different angles of the current line setup. I have marked the two Vacuum Lines coming off of the manifold in pic #1.

ORDER OF EVENTS;
-The car was running perfectly until I removed some vacuum lines. Then it wouldn’t start.


- I tried running the lines many different ways to no avail.


- I decided that per chance it wasn’t the lines after all so I began replacing critical ignition parts; I replaced the solenoid, the coil, the rotor, the distributor cap, the wire running from the coil to the cap (yellow in pic).

- Then tested ignition, it attempted to fire up, but sputtered and backfired loudly.

- I then removed the gas tank, it had old gas and algae growing in it, so I flushed it all out over night (clean no rust at all upon inspection), reinstalled tank.

- Flushed the fuel lines

- Pumped out the fuel pump and pour in new gas.

- Replaced fuel filter with new transparent filter seen in pics.

- Tried to start it again, simply turns over now constantly, but never really attempts to start.

The car is well kept, has new oil, new parts everywhere, brand new carb etc.

Everything was working perfectly until I removed one headlight actuator and a few hoses :(

Any advice would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!
002.jpg 003.jpg 006.JPG 001.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #2
In case the picture is to small of a rez to understand my writing on it. Here is the basic layout. The front manifold vacuum line runs into a "T" splitter that has a line that runs into the Brake booster and the other side runs into the tranny.

The rear manifold vacuum line runs into a "T" splitter as well, but both lines simply run to the front of the car for lights or something. Currently I have BOTH of them just plugged off.

Any vacuum lines that are just currently hanging loose are plugged off tightly.
 

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dunno about that issue but that spaghetti wiring mess would drive me nuts.... good luck though.
 

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The vaccum line problem I'll not address, but to make the starting up of a car easier and to help determine if a problem is fuel or ignition, I have found that all carburators that I have ever seen are designed such that, when their throttle blade angle is set with the throttle blade adjustment screw being exactly one turn "in" from the point where the throttle blade adjustment screw was not touching the "blade" at ALL, it will set the blade at a point in the bore that will expose the carb's transistion circuit's fuel mixture dump-port slot to a small amount of the motor's vacuum and that will cause a small amount of the transistion circuit's fuel mixture to be already in motion before the throttle is opened up, this is when the transistion circuit's fuel mixture is needed to off-set the "leaning" of the mixture caused by the throttle blade being opened up but, as yet, not enough air has flowed pasted the main boosters to cause them to "feel" enough of a vacuum signal to begin their own fuel mixture flow into the motor and correct the "lean" condition caused by the throttle blade being opened up. Thus, this "constant fuel mixture motion" of the carb's transistion circuit's fuel mixture greatly helps to reduce the stumble, or motor bog (which is often mistakenly "fixed" with an increase in the size of the "accelerator pump's fuel shot volume), that is caused by the delay (in time) of the transisition circuit's fuel mixture delivery into the motor.

With the "one turn" rule of carburation being a reality (as it is!), the engine's idle speed RPM can only be set by turning the distributor to facilitate the adjustment of the idle speed RPM (also true). And so it is that, when you twist the distributor to set the engine's idle speed RPM (as you should!), you are, by default, also setting the ignition timing as well (and you are!).

And so, to me, it seems unlikely that anyone could argue that:
If a car is set up by the factory and it's ignition timing is set right and it's throttle blade adjustment screw is turned to "one" (and hence, the blade position and transistion slot exposure amount is set right) and who's engine idle speed is also set to the correct RPM... then it could only indicate that one or more of that car's settings are... WRONG!
Therefore:

To tune a car:
01). Set carb with "one turn" rule of carburation.
02). Set idle speed RPM with distributor.
03). The ignition timing is set by default.

To start a car:
01). Look into carb and visually confirm that the "pump shot" is working. This indicates that there is at least some fuel in the bowl.
02). Pump throttle three times and then SLOWLY let throttle up off of the floor. This gives "time" for the spring actions of carb to set choke.
03). Crank engine for five seconds.
04). Pump throttle six times and then hold throttle down on floor and do not remove your foot until after completion of step five, below.
05). Crank engine (with throttle held down on floor, as per step four, above) for ten whole seconds.
06). Pull a spark plug out of motor.
a). a "fuel wet" plug indicates an ignition problem (the difference between an oil wet or fuel wet plug can be discerned by the smell of the plug).
b). a "fuel dry" plug indicates a fuel delivery problem.

end
 
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