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Discussion Starter #1
Not sure if this is the right section, but it is headlight related. At the end of last year right before I put my car to bed, the headlight switch started hissing with the lights on or off.
So far all my troubleshooting with a hand vacuum pump has come up with no leaks except the switch. I've checked the motors separately, reservoir, and hoses using an ultrasonic leak detector.
I have new re-manufactured door motors (by West Coast Classic Cougars) installed maybe 2 years ago. I bought a NOS switch off of eBay and tried that, I also replaced the seals in my original switch. I also replaced the check valve between the headlight system and the climate control/ cruise control systems.
With both of these switches, I can pump them up to about 15in with my hand pump. They both will drop about 1 1/2in in 30 minutes and then will hold that for an hour.
I have taken both switches and plugged them into the vacuum system right at the check valve for the cruise control, trying to eliminate the junction block in the firewall. Made no difference, switch still hisses.
Am I still looking at a bad switch?

On a side note, about the same time my headlight switch started hissing, the cruise control stopped working. I'm sort of wondering if the two are related. The only place the connect is at the check valve. Climate control works like it's supposed to along with all the other vacuum operated accessories.
Thanks in advance for any help,
 

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My cousin's 67 had the same issue. He tried to repair his original switch without success. He wound up using the switch from a parts car he had and it works great. I'm suprised the NOS switch doesn't work. His car doesn't have cruise, but the vacuum loss may be having an effect on your system. I have converted my car to electric openers, so no more vacuum leaks!!!
 

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Switch hisses, it is bad... Unfortunately many parts that are sold as "NOS" are in fact rejects or returns that lament on shelves in the back room for years until they fall in the hands of an ebayer. The guy selling it assumes since it is in the box it must be new and "A" OK... About one out of every 150 repro switches we sell come back as a leaker or bad in another way so it is quite conceivable that is what the problem with yours is.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
My cousin's 67 had the same issue. He tried to repair his original switch without success. He wound up using the switch from a parts car he had and it works great. I'm suprised the NOS switch doesn't work. His car doesn't have cruise, but the vacuum loss may be having an effect on your system. I have converted my car to electric openers, so no more vacuum leaks!!!
What did you use to make yours electric. At this point I'm almost considering a mod like that also.

Switch hisses, it is bad... Unfortunately many parts that are sold as "NOS" are in fact rejects or returns that lament on shelves in the back room for years until they fall in the hands of an ebayer. The guy selling it assumes since it is in the box it must be new and "A" OK... About one out of every 150 repro switches we sell come back as a leaker or bad in another way so it is quite conceivable that is what the problem with yours is.
Thanks for the info Don. I almost bought a repo switch at Napa, but they didn't have one in stock.
 

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The 1967 Cougar described above, most likely has had a conversion to the 1968 vacuum headlight system.

Original 1967 Mercury Cougar's came with a non-vacuum headlight switch. One similar to the 1967 Mustang, but with a higher amperage rating for the quad headlight electrical needs.
 

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My cousin's 67 had the same issue. He tried to repair his original switch without success. He wound up using the switch from a parts car he had and it works great. I'm suprised the NOS switch doesn't work. His car doesn't have cruise, but the vacuum loss may be having an effect on your system. I have converted my car to electric openers, so no more vacuum leaks!!!
What did you use to make yours electric. At this point I'm almost considering a mod like that also.
I'm interested in this as well, I'd love to to get away from the vacuum mess. :) My switch is hissing, I have an actuator that doesn't close, etc. If I'm going to fix the system and keep it stock then I want to do it right and do it all, which is $$$. I'd love to simplify, make it reliable, and hopefully save money in the process.
 

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The article on TCCN outlines the modification. I used Ford Probe headlight motors and a friend of mine (tool & die maker) made the brackets from the specs in the article. I spent about $150.00 for the parts and it took a day and a half to perform the modification. The headlight doors work like a charm. There was someone on the forum offering kits a couple of months ago. That may be your best choice. Search headlight conversion. Electric Headlight Conversion Kits ready for production, need 67-68 to test fit! Here the post offering a conversion kit.
 
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