Mercury Cougar Owners banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
794 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys. Looking for some advice on a fuel system. This is my first car with a carb so I'm still learning. I am looking into installing a 15gal alum. fuel cell in the trunk and running a new braided steel fuel line up front. I have two questions:

1. For install of the fuel cell (sumped w/ -10 AN feed fittings) : when the factory tank comes out I will have a gaping hole. I'm thinking of fabricating a 1/4" thick aluminum peice cut the same size as the opening with an area cut out for the sump to drop through. This peice would bolt in like the factory tank and provide a place to mount the fuel cell. Is this the right/safe way to do it?

2. Fuel line size : I guess it is rated in "AN" sizes (-10,-8,-6..)
Can a large (-10) line be used with the mechanical fuel pump ?
Not talking about the connection size to pump, just overall line size.

Thanks in advance for taking the time to help me out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,832 Posts
I assume this is going to be a race only car? What your talking about putting the cell in the original hole maybe ok but I'm concerned about it. What kind of can is on the cell you plan on useing? Is it flanged on the top or in the middle of the side?

A 15 gal cell is not very big around and that leaves a pretty wide plate to bolt it in with. A pice of 1/4 inch aluminum hasn't much strength laying flat. If its a top flanged can you can't hardly bolt it in through the top as it will hang down pretty low.

Most fuel cells will need a frame built around it. And also the frame should go under it to help support the weight of the fuel in it. If you look most stock fuel tanks have ribs of some sort stamped into them to add strength to help support the weight of the fuel, most cells do not, therefore the need of a cage under the cell.

The best way would probably to build a frame (usally 3/4 square tubing) for the cell and bolt it in that way and then you can fill the open space with sheet metal or aluminum.

Dose the fuel line come out of the top or bottom? If it comes from the top a steel plate behind the back seat is in order to seal off the pass compartment.

If memory serves correct a -10 line is around 1/2' ID so that would be plenty big for your supply line. You can't really go too big as its better to be oversized than too small. A -8 would be fine also for most applications. Eldebrock makes a real good mechanical fuel pump with npt fittings so you could run a real nic line all the way to it without having to splice in rupper hoses.mm
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
794 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Mark-
Thanks for the input. I'm not sure what you mean by "What kind of can is on the cell " ?

The cell has mounting tabs welded to the bottom so it wil sit in the middle of the trunk. It has a 2 outlet sump on the bottom with 2 -10AN fittings and 2 -8 AN vent/return fittings on the top.
The filler cap is flush with the top.
If you have a summit catalog its in the fuel section.
Cell is 20"x18"x10".

Because the Sump hangs lower than the bottom of the cell in the middle, the mounting plate will have to have a section cut out to accomodate the sump.

Well, I guess you are right about the thickness of the plate.
at 7lbs/gal, 15 gallons would be 105lbs. Maybe I could use 1/2" aluminum or 1/4" steel ?

Would I still need a frame for the cell if it is mounted well to a
thick or strong plate?

The car is my weekend project. Not race only, but when I'm done
I will definately hit the track on a regular basis. At the rate I'm going now, it will be 5-10 years. Cash is th only holdup. I think we all have this problem though
:D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,832 Posts
Ok, I dug out my Summit catalog an now I know where your coming from. First off let me say this not trying to make you mad but I dont care what Summit or anyone else calls it, that is not a real fuel cell. That is a heavy duty gas tank with so called safety foam in it. Safety foams first real purpose is to keep the fuel from sloshing.A real fuel cell is made of a rubber or polyethylene cell that is enclosed in a steel tank (can).

The purpose of a fuel cell is for it to be able to absorb a reasonable impact in a crash and not rupture. By it being a steel can it will bend in a crash but unless its punctured the rubber cell will conform with the steel outer can and not leak. In the case of a stock tank you have a much greater chance of leakage in a crash.

In any case what you have will be fine for what you are doing with it. A nice heavy plate will be fine for mounting it on. A 1/4" aluminum plate maybe heavy enough if you are only going to cut out for the sump to hang through as the tank itself is .090 thick. I thought you were planning on hanging the whole cell through it to allow some trunk space.

The only thing you have to remember is the venting of the tank. The cap should not be vented, thats why they have the AN fittings on top. They make regular screw on vents, but I wouldnt want to vent it directly inside my trunk. You need a piece of hose to hook to it to run the vent outside the trunk. You can probably run it through the floor and fasten the vent below. A steel plate behind the rear seat is still probably in order also.

I'm attaching a picture of the cell in one of my race cars so you can see the type of real cell I'm talking about. Note the dents in the cell and the frame work holding it in. The dents are from impacts that you would not want hitting a aluminum tank like you have. But the good thing is yours shouldnt ever be in the position for it to happen to it.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Another point to remember is that you need to put a ONE-WAY VALVE in the vent line so if you ever turn the car over the gas will not leak out and cause a fire hazard. It will also take care of the problem of having the vent in the trunk because a gas tank should only suck AIR IN. It should never blow out. That would only release dangerous fumes. Which you don't want. You should also install a filter on the line so dirt don't get sucked into the gas tank.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
794 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Ok, I can understand what your saying about a "real" fuel cell. It sounds a lot safer, but I think for my application as a weekend car and at the drag strip should be ok. Do you use that car for
open track or what?

I havent purchased the cell yet, so do you think that a plastic/poly cell would be safer in a crash than the aluminum one?

Even though it is not a real fuel cell, it has to be safer than the stock one. Being mounted in the trunk and behind the bumper.

Buddy-
Thanks for the vent tip. Are you sure about the one way vent?
What happens to the fuel when it heats up and expands.... I would think that the vent would need to go both ways.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,832 Posts
Crazy, go ahead, I said the aluminum cell will be fine for what you plan to do with it. The plastic or poly cell will not be any safer unless it is in a can. Buddy is right about a check valve being needed on the vent with a filter on it. But I disagree with the statement about it not needing to be vented outside of the trunk. The check valve will shut off fuel in a rollove but a small amount of fumes can still work there way out, not something you want in a trunk. As for the question about the pic of my car, that was a IMCA modified circle track car. mm
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Crazy, I'm sure about the one-way valve. Have you ever went to get gas for your car or truck and loosened the gas cap and heard air escaping? I'm not positive but pretty sure that most of the newer cars anyway have one-way valves installed in them. I think they are in the gas cap. Modifiedmark was right about the vent. It should not be in the trunk. I was thinking about my old bomber race car which had lots of holes for ventilation. A normal trunk would not. Therefore it should be vented to the outside. But don't put it near the exhaust or where it can suck water into the gas tank. Thank you Mark for correcting my mistake. I also think that you should put a steel plate behind the rear seat to seal off the passenger compartment. Crazy I hope we helped you. Mark I thought that picture looked like some place where I had spent many hours at before. It brought back some memories. I used to race UMP modifieds at Bloomington and Brownstown IN. Have you ever raced there? I had to sell out 2 years ago. I just about went bankrupt. I raced modifieds for 5 years. I hope you have a good sponsor. I did until he decided to start racing himself and he cut me off cause he said he couldn't afford us both. Of course he had to try Dirt Late Models and we both know how cheap they are. Buddy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
794 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the help Mark and Buddy. I appreciate the info.
You guys take care. I'll post some pics when I'm done. most likely in a few years. :rolleyes:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,832 Posts
No Buddy, never raced Brownstown, have watched at Twin Cities and planned to go over to Brownstown but they rained out that night. I sold out of my race cars in 94, about the time UMP took over all the tracks around for modifieds. I knew it was the time to get out because I knew that the UMP was going to destroy modifieds and I belive in my opinion I was right. I loved the IMCA's because I ran late models before that and they just about destroyed my pocket book and that is why I was so dissapointed to see IMCA fall by the wayside in my area. I was IMCA track champ at Shady Hill in 92 and ran the dirt nationals at the state fair grounds that fall. Ran the Springfield mile in 93 and usally ran at Shady Hill (Medaryville) Southlake (Crown Point) Danville ILL, Plymouth IN and Boswell IN. If your from central IN you should have been able to spot that Dayton chassis. I really dont miss the racing that much, I'm getting too old for all the work. I try to take in a few dirt races a year just to see whats going on and besides the fact that I really dont care for drag racing at all. I have my Cougar to mess with now and I only have to work on it if I feel like it.mm
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top