Mercury Cougar Owners banner

1 - 20 of 29 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Okay so here is the story. I'm in South Africa and my c6 automatic transmission in my 1969 390XR7 is leaking. It seems to be coming from around the nuetral safety switch and the oil pan seal. I can change the seal but the leak from above the pan is worrying me. What could it be? Also if i change the seal i will need to change all the oil as i cannot get ford type F transmission fluid here. I can however get Dextron III. Would that be alright? Please can someone help me as to what i should do?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
I had a similar problem..I changed my pan 3 times,thinking because the pan had a small kink in the rail area ,and then changed the pan all together as well one time !! and also changhed the selector shaft seal and it still leaked ! It was coming from the seal around the switch and leaking around the other side and down on the selector shaft area and pan,it was undetectable for a time due to the way the fluid traveled ...Keep in mind this was a fully rebuilt trans that sat for a little time so i figured pan gasket ..I asked the rebuilder and they said point blank that they dont ever change that seal when doing a rebuild..600.00 doesnt get you a 2.30 part i guess...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,853 Posts
I will have to remember this. I am going to have mine rebuilt the first of the year and I would be a little upset is a newly rebuilt tranny leaked.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,142 Posts
That sucks that the rebuilder said they don't change the seal. It's all about profit. Removing the lever and replacing it takes 30+ minutes with the trans apart.

I have building transmissions for 25 years and have never NOT replaced that seal. None of mine leak. Nice.

This can be done by the do-it-yourselfer but in the car and in the driveway is going to be a PITA.

Can Dexron III be used? Yes, it will shift. The friction modifiers are different that those of type F. I have run both, mixed them...can't tell a difference.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks alot. I think that will be a lot of help. I need to just get under the car now and have a look. Where can i buy that seal? And how do i get in there to change it? Also one last question, will i have to drain all the transmission fluid first? I have already imported the pan seal but when i had a look to change it, i decided that there might be another problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,055 Posts
Maybe this falls under the category of old wives tale, but I've heard a lot of knowledgeable Ford mechanics say "Never use Dextron in a Ford transmission".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Ok and what about Mercon V? That and Dextron are the only two that i can find here that i have seen people on the internet talking about. What other options are there? I think i'm going to have to use Dextron III.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,950 Posts
If your going to have the thing rebuilt - be sure what the manufacturer of the parts recommends. There are no cut and dry answers when it comes to ATF's because they are designed differently for the requirements of the trans as well as the clutch materials. You will dramatically reduce the life of the thing if you don't stick to whats needed. Some are cross compatible others are not..

http://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/main/quickref/atf.pdf
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,142 Posts
Here's a pic of what you're dealing with:
http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/graphics/Catalog-pdf/C-6.pdf

You need item 799
It's available from Ford, or from a trans part supplier, or in a gasket and seal kit.

I would review the shop manual on how-to...it's straight forward out of the car but will be a PITA in the car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,279 Posts
You've got to drop the pan and valve body to replace the seal. A large nut holds the selector shaft from the inside of the case.
Two seals actually, the selector shaft seal and the kickdown shaft o ring.
I'm not sure that you can even remove the selector shaft with the transmission in the car.

I suggest Haynes Automatic transmission manual.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Ok Wow thanks alot for everyones input. Now that is some helpful information right there. Is it possible to remove the transmission without taking the whole engine out? The other thing is that someone has cut a hole in the bell housing right at the botton near the front right by the engine just next to the inspection plate, how serious is this? The problem is every time i have sent something to be fixed on this car someone messes something up so if i want this transmission rebuilt, i'm going to have to try do it my self. I'm sure i can figure it out but it will not be easy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
252 Posts
If you are getting the tranny rebuilt, be sure to insist that the rebuilder replaces the selector seal. They usually don't do it even though it is easy and cheap at that point.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
413 Posts
Is it possible to remove the transmission without taking the whole engine out?
Yes, it is possible, but make sure you rent a transmission jack and don't try to use your floor jack. You can can be seriously injured if your transmission slips off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Hi dfwcatsclub

So I have pulled my transmission apart from the oil pan and I have figure out what the problem is.
If you look at that picture you posted further up, the kickdown rod part that goes into the transmission is broken. It is part 991-1, the bent part has broken oiff the shaft and i see someone has tried to fix itand it has broken again. Why would this have broken and is it possible to get another one? So my seals are actually fine around the neutral saftey switch however I have got new ones which i will be putting in buyt i first need to replace that shaft I think?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Ok and then the other problem is I don't know how to drain the oil from the torque converter. Please can someone help?
Sorry for all the stupid questions, but I have never done this before.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,279 Posts
Ok and then the other problem is I don't know how to drain the oil from the torque converter. Please can someone help?
Sorry for all the stupid questions, but I have never done this before.
At the very front of the transmission, on the bottom is a small cover held on by two 5/16" bolts (1/2" hex head). remove the bolts and the cover and turn the crankshaft until you see the drain plug which has a 3/8" hex.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Once I opened up the transmission to change the seals I found that the shaft for the kickdown rod that goes into the gearbox is broken. My plan is to weld the piece back, I think it will be successful. But I am unsure which way to weld it, the piece that has a hook like structure has broken off the actual shaft. Which way does it need to be welded back?
Attached is a picture of the piece I am talking about.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Now the other problem is that i can't get Ford type F So I need to completely drain the oil. I think someone had used a metric spanner instead of a imperial on on the bolt to drain the torque converter, it is completely round, I can't get it out, there is no space to drill. What does anyone suggest?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
And attached is a picture of my broken kick down rod lever
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,279 Posts
Now the other problem is that i can't get Ford type F So I need to completely drain the oil. I think someone had used a metric spanner instead of a imperial on on the bolt to drain the torque converter, it is completely round, I can't get it out, there is no space to drill. What does anyone suggest?
Do you have access to a welder? If so, weld a flat washer to the top of the rounded off plug, then weld a hex nut to the washer.... Then remove the plug. Replace the plug with a 1/8" NPT hex head pipe plug.
As for the broken part, apparently the kickdown cable/lever was adjusted too tight and the result is the broken part.
 
1 - 20 of 29 Posts
Top