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I was just curious here if I could make my job a little bit easier. I am swapping my c4 to an AOD in my 68std w/ 302. Could I use the cooler lines off somethink like an aod equipped Mustang or Thunderbird? Will the radiator ends fit my stock radiator? And will the length be fairly close for lines from any particular AOD application?

Thanks
 

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When I swapped the AOD into wvcat I used thunderbird lines. Unfortunatly I don't think you will find a direct bolt in because our cars have a downflow radiator and all newer cars that I know of have crossflow type. They could be cut off and reflared on the radiator end.
John
wvcat
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. No problem re-flaring the one end. I just wasn't looking forward to bending my own lines. So what year Thunderbird do You reccomend? I was thinking like 87-88.
 

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I would like to put an AOD transmission in my 67 Standard. My car has the stock 289 with a C4. What kind of AOD transmission would I look for? I mean, out of what year Ford? Would I need a new converter, shifter, linkage, cross member, or drive shaft?

Thanks,

BS
 

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Discussion Starter #6
rseeds said:
I would like to put an AOD transmission in my 67 Standard. My car has the stock 289 with a C4. What kind of AOD transmission would I look for? I mean, out of what year Ford? Would I need a new converter, shifter, linkage, cross member, or drive shaft?

Thanks,

BS
Well, I'm in the process of doing it and here is what I know so far. First, If you have long tube headers they will pose a problem. I know a couple of Cleveland guys run long tubes and an AOD, but it's tight. I have never heard of it working with a 289/302 block. As to the trans, I am told that an 88 and up Mustang GT is the best. The 88 and up cars had better lubrication. Any V8 will do, but stay away from Lincoln AOD's as they had a longer tailshaft. Yes, you do need a new converter. The flexplate is debatable. If you have the 168 tooth flexplate for the C4, I've heard it will work, but I've also heard not. The 157 tooth one will not work. AOD requires 167 teeth. You can pick up an AOD flexplate for cheap anywy (like 10 bucks). You need the block plate (goes between the trans and engine to allign the starter. Try to get the converter cover (inspection) plate too, but I've heard this isn't critical. You can use your stock shifter, but you need a different linkage. Windsor Fox sells it as well as a few other mustand vendors I've seen. It seems to run around 70 bucks. You need a new crossmember. The same places that sell the linkage generally have this. It seems to run around 150.00, but a lot of people make there own so if you are in to fabricating, I would. Change the front yoke on yor shaft to an AOD one and you should be ok. I've also heard of cutting the c4 one down.
 

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You guys need to be carefull swaping AOD flywheels around. Remember that till 82 ford small blocks used a 28 oz balance weight and that 82 and later used a 50 oz. You may want to double check but I think 82 was the year they changed.

I think you can use a FMX flywheel with the AOD also. mm
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah, I forgot about that one. My engine was ballanced to the 50oz imballance when it was re-built, so I didn't think about that. But he's right. If your 289 is all original you'll need the 28.2 oz flexplate. I have heard the FMX and the large bellhousing c4 flexplate will work with the AOD.
 

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Wasn't there a larger bellhousing for the FMX too. I think it was for truck applications.
 

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Here is a copy of an email I sent a friend inquiring about the swap. My car and his are both 70's and I believe 351w cars. I would be glad to answer any question that I can help you with. John
wvcat

The AOD swap wasn't to bad. There are some obstacles but they are easy
to overcome. The biggest one is the crossmember, you will need a new one.
The are available from windsor fox or from Mark Piechowski but beware they
may not work with your current exhaust. I tried one from Mark and it would
not clear my Hooker headers and pipes. I made one, it was a piece of cake.

The rest is a bolt in really. First get a trans thats from an 89 or
newer 5.0 mustang, I've been told they have a better lube circut, improved
clutches and the right lever to work with our shifters. You will need the
trans, converter, block plate & inspection cover, and yoke. The trans
bolts right up. one of the trans lines from an FMX lines up perfect but
the other is way off. I picked up a set out of the boneyard from a newer
style tbird and cut the ends off by the radiator and installed a cooler
with hoses conecting it. I didn't hook up my radiator cooler because it
had been unhooked for years and I figured it was dirty inside. (I had a 4
sp in there but it was a factory FMX car) Working your way back the next
situation I came across was the starter nose, it fits but the top hole
will be threaded on the trans and the starter, I drilled the threads out
of the starter and used it with no problems. Next thing to hook up is the
drive shaft mine worked but I had already changed the yoke for the 4 sp
swap, the AOD and 4sp yokes have the same splines. The FMX is different.
There is some consideration on the speedometer. The AOD uses an electronic
speedo that comes right out and your stock one fits the hole but the teeth
on the gear is wrong. I went to the ford dealer and picked up a 21 tooth
speedo gear for six bucks to fit a 5.0 mustang and no problems. I am told
that if you have a choice to get a trans that comes out of a mustang with
3:23 or lower rear end gears because the use a different gear on the trans
shaft (7 or 8 teeth are the choices) thats not replacable without a
complete teardown of the trans and a replacment shaft. The next thing to
tackle is the shift linkage. Before installing the trans you need to pull
the selector shaft out and rotate it 180 degrees. I was told that my stack
linkage rod would work but when I went to install it it was too short. The
thing is I'm not sure that I was trying my stock one or one from another
vehicle that was laying around the garage...duh I didn't put it in a safe
place when I removed my FMX. Anyway it works out that I have park where
its supposed to be and low in the trans shows 2nd on the shifter but it
doesn't create a problem and looks stock. One more easy project, the
throttle cable. I picked up a lokar cable from a speed shop for 69.95, it
was a piece of cake to install but I messed with the adjustment for a
while after I started driving the car to get it the way I wanted it.
The only other thing I did was install a shift kit and a drain plug on
the pan. I'm even using the stock converter. I used the bauman shift kit
and it was easy to install.
The car runs great and getts a whopping 14 MPG on the
highway.........lol Of course I am running alot of cam and 3:73's and my
motor would prefer a set of 4:11's. The only downside I can speak of is
the inherent quality of an AOD to be clunky for the lack of a better term
when goin into OD. This is magnified in my car due to the cam, when it
hits OD under part throttle it drops the engine below its power band and
it luggs. Under moderate acceleration its not noticable and your results
may be different. I have never had my car fast enough for a full throttle
AOD shift but it chirps when it hit drive a full throttle, thats probably
around the 60-70mph range.
If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask, I'll be glad to help you
or take pic of mine. Heres a couple sites to check out.
http://www.baumannengineering.com/aboutbe.htm
http://www.windsor-fox.com/
Good Luck
John
 
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