Mercury Cougar Owners banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Contributing Sr Motorhead
Joined
·
5,470 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I took AlphaCat's C-6 over to my buddy Terry's yesterday for him to go through and freshen up. The tranny had been professionally rebuilt shortly before i bought the car. I hadn't put that many miles on it since I bought it. It was shifting fine the last time I drove the car, but I figured as long as it is out...

Terry and I tore into it to see what was what. :eek: YIKES!!! :eek: It was a good thing I decided to go through the tranny. The first thing we noticed was a goodly ammount of sediment. Well, sediment isn't good, but you catch my meaning.

Tranny problem areas:

1. The thrust washers on either side of the one planetary drum had spun, breaking or wearing off their locator tabs. The tabs on the one thrust washer chewed into the aluminum planetary gear housing a bit, but that really isn't a concern once the new thrust washers are installed properly.

2. The direct clutch pack pressure plates on either side of the direct clutch pack both came out in pieces. We've never seen those parts broken before. Anybody have any ideas why that happened? Obviously they will have to be replaced.

3. One of the sealing rings on the tailshaft had worn into the governor body. Time for a new governenor body.

4. The 2nd gear band actuating servo is one of the smallest used in C-6s. It is the 'J' servo with a 'D' lever arm. I know that this combo is not the most conducive for performance use. Short of buying the rare and expen$ive 'R' servo, which one(s) should I look for?

:1zhelp:
 

·
Contributing Sr Motorhead
Joined
·
5,470 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
:1zhelp: Anyone? :1poke: :1zhelp: :1poke: :1zhelp: :1poke: :1zhelp:
 

·
Contributing Sr Motorhead
Joined
·
5,470 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
HELP!!!

:1zhelp: :1poke: Where are our tranny guys? :1poke: :1zhelp: :confused:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,201 Posts
They are all 'out to lunch', seeing as I know sweet nothing about c-6's but hate to see a help go ignored I tried to see what info I had on the c6 in my vast databse of misc. files, hmmm, only one I could come up with was this, does give some nice pics tho', maybe you can fish around in the site and find something, there is tons of cool info in the site as well, so its worth a look at.
http://users.abilene.com/~dkelly/hotrod/trans.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,141 Posts
I believe that i have an "M" cover but I can double check that, and I know that I have an "F" arm. I asked a bunch of folks what I should use for street and strip if the "R" cover wasn't an option (and at $200.00 it wasn't) and that's what I got.
I will have to roll under the car and check. I will get back to you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,141 Posts
I have a P servo and cover with an F arm. I have an "N" cover and "A" arm that I took out if you need them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
If you can find a servo better then N, I wouldn't worry about the lever too much. The S servo is pretty common and better then the N. You can also find a billit copy of the R servo for about 150 which is always availible. You can find it at www.bulkparts.com.
Make sure to order a selection on selective thrust washers to get the endplay within spec. Excessive endplay is most likely the cause of those two slipped thrust washers. Not sure what caused the broken pressure plates. There is only one pressure plate in the direct drum. There are two in the forward drum. If you can, obtain another FWD lower pressure plate---the beveled one and use it on top of the direct clutches. That pressure plate is thinner and will allow one more clutch to be installed in the Direct----it really needs it. Make sure you follow the diagram for setting up the direct clutch return springs---they are not evenly spaced. They are set up 3 then 1 then 2 then 1 then 3 and it has to be positioned correctly in relation to the bleed hole.
Set that band to 1 1/4 turns out.
Make sure the modulator pin is the correct length---with a pushin style modulator the pin should bottom out and leave approximately a 1/16" gap between the modulator and the case. then when you tighten down the hold down bolt it will slightly compress the spring. Green Modualtors are for diesels, Black is for gas and purple is for low vacuum situations---like big cams.

Hope I wasnt' too late,
 

·
Contributing Sr Motorhead
Joined
·
5,470 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Ooops!

Why on earth did I say it was the direct clutch pack? I really meant Forward.

Even at that both pressure plates, the square-cut top one and the tapered lower one, are almost the same thickness. I measured with a caliper and there wasn't even .020 difference -- not enough for an extra clutch disc. Waitaminute... the pressure plate tapers so it is thinner at the edge, where the retaining snap ring is. maybe that is how you get the extra space for another disc. I did see that Alto Transmissions offers a clutch pack with thinner clutches and steels so you can get up to eight clutch discs in there (with the normal five clutch drum).

I have another servo cover, an 'H', but its corresponding piston is one of those molded rubber jobs. What about that 'trick' where you leave off the smaller sealing ring and notch or drill the smaller flange so you're using the bigger part of the piston for pushing? What else is involved with that? I think you need to tap and plug some passage, but then how does the fluid get back out? drain back through the valve body?

Sorry for all the questions, I'm not a tranny expert! I just drive the thing!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Unfortunately with the Alto kit you can't get 8 clutches in a C-6, but the corresponding E4OD drum you can. With the C-6 you get 7 clutches which is very good. I would recomend that kit over using the tapered pressure plate. The Alto clutches are good stuff. You can even get a high performance version of that kit that comes with Alto Red Eagle Clutches which apply firmer then stock clutches just because they apply more efficiantly.
There is a trick with the piston, tap and block off that side hole in the servo cover and put a set screw in there. Now, I have heard of people cutting the rubber lip off the smaller diameter of the rubber servo, but I never tried it and thinking about it I am not sure if it will work, unless there is a double lip on the big diameter. If the lip faces the wrong direction, the piston will not hold pressure. I have used this trick with an aluminum piston, but I turned down the o-ring lands to allow fluid to move into the big diameter easier---you could also grind 4 notches to acheive the same results. Changing the diameter will probly change the "tune" of the servo. There is an apply side if the servo and a release side, the release side is always bigger then the apply. By doing this trick you are making the apply side the same size as the release. This may not allow the piston to release as efficiantly. Then the spring becomes the only thing to return the piston. I feel that this may not work in a variation of pressure levels, like part throttle shifts versus full throttle. This would probly be o-k when being used with a manual valve body.
You can tune the 2-3 shift overlap by the return spring tension. This spring is not just a return spring, but it more serves as a timing spring. What takes place during the 2-3 shift is that the 2nd gear band is coming off and overlapping as the direct clutches apply. I have seen with many C-6's where someone installed a shift kit that the 2-3 shift will have an engine flare up. What is happening is the band is coming off too quickly causing what is called a 2-3 "cutloose". The remedy this situation you would install a lighter return spring. If you go too light with the spring the band will come off too slow and cause a binding effect which is no good.
The Billet servo comes with several return springs to tune the 2-3 shift. This billet servo also acts in the same fashion as a stock servo, with proper opposing diameters. Yet has the large "R" sized apply side for better holding force. If you can't find a good servo like S or P, then I would recomend using the billet servo before modifing the stock servo. I am not sure about the H servo.
Another thing is a lot of people leave out the wavy plate in the low-reverse--the big clutches in the case. Those clutches come on when you are at a stand still, like the Forwards. So I don't believe they need the extra attention like leaving out a wavy, but it will cause harsh engaugement.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top