Has anyone rebuilt a trac lock unit? I'm going to get a used one but it needs new clutches. How big a deal is it to replace clutches and springs? How do they come apart and where can I buy a rebuild kit? Thanks.
it's easy. the trac-lock comes apart after removing the ring gear. there are 2 phillips head screws holding the two halves together.i recommend turning the screws almost all the way out the use a plastic mallet to strike the screw heads to seperate the two halves. o9nce it starts to come apart the springs will pop it apart. the important part of the clutch pack is in the # of discs and the order in which they are stacked. also check the track lok case itself for cracks. they are prone to breaking. stay away from the units with the four holes in them. they are the waekest of the posi units.
I think he's referring to the oil drain holes in the spyder gear portion of the diff.
Something else to look for: 4 sypder vs 2 spyder posi's. And while you're at it make sure the spyders turn freely on their pin. The pin should not turn!
The process is straight forward and as far as parts the Ford unit clutches are still available new from the Motorsport dealers. JEGs has tons in stock. Around $50 as I recall.
I'm referring to the holes on the smaller half of the trac-lok unit that are for the half round pieces that keep the clutch pack centered. you can see the tabs on the steel plates inside the posi from the outside of the unit.
I rebuilt the Trak-lok in the 8" in my MG, (MustangII housing) it is pretty easy, once the ring gear is off the carrier it's no big deal. Just take your time and pay attention to what your doing. Royce is right, you'll need a dial indacator to set the back lash. After you have done a few you can set the back lash pretty close by feel/hand. Also a spaner wrench is VERY handy for adjusting the carrier bearings/backlash, I've gotten desperate and stuck bolts in two holes in the bearing adjuster then used a bar between the bolts to turn the adjuster. I got my rebuild kit for my 8" from Currie
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