Mercury Cougar Owners banner
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Its a 73 cougar xr7

So yesterday i was driving down the road on the MOST busy road in my town at 5 oclock and my cougar just dies without warning and wont come back on!! i had my uncle look at it for me and we rebuilt the carb and it ran. it acts like its flooding the carb bc i dont think im getting the right spark to burn my fuel. My uncle recommened that i check my timing and he said its WAY off. I dont have access to a timing light so how do you do it manually. Can someone tell me where there 1 and 3 on the cap are so i can get it remotley right.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,612 Posts
T #1 cylinder is usually marked on the distributor cap. It's first post to the right of the rear clip. Assuming you have a Windsor small block with stock cam, the firing order is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 (counting counter clock-wise). To see if the timing is close, take out the #1 spark plug (first plug toward the front of the car on the passenger side). Remove the coil wire. Then hold your finger over the #1 spark plug hole. Turn the motor over by hand (helps to have someone assist with this) until you feel air being pushed out the #1 plug hole. Slowly turn the motor to the point where no more air is being pushed out the plug hole-- that's close as you're going to get to top dead center using this method. Now pull off the distributor cap and look to see where the rotor is pointing. It should be pointing roughly toward where the #1 post on the cap sits. If its way off from this, you've got trouble.

Do you have any spark at all? If the car ran fine and then just suddenly died and now the timing is way off, then I fear your timing chain has jumped a few teeth. That's not something you can quickly fix.

Please post some more specific info so folks here can try to help, e.g., 302, 351, etc., stock or modified, 2bbl or 4bbl, etc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,072 Posts
Are you sure your distrubor hold down bolt was tight? Happened to me one day, driving down the interstate and my car suddenly began to stall out. For some reason my distrubutor was the first thing I looked at. The bolt wasn't tight enough and it turned. It wasn't easy, but i got it back in the right position and I had a tool with me to tighten it down.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,612 Posts
Assuming the timing chain hasn't jumped and that the engine runs well enough to idle, you can get the timing approximately correct by taking off the vacuum advance line, loosen the distributor bolt and and with the engine idling, turn the distributor clockwise to the point where you get the fastest idle. Tighten down the clamp and reconnect the advance line. Test drive. It will probably ping on as you step on the gas. If so, stop, turn the distributor back the other way a tiny bit, test drive, repeat as necessary until it stops pinging.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i have a 351 cleveland 2 barrel and you say to turn it all the way up and drive and if it acts funny stop and turn it back some?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,950 Posts
---not all the way, ---while you have it running turn it until it's idling the fastest (idle increases as you go clockwise), then lock it down and test drive, and back it off until it runs better.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
alright i did it and it is running better. i can atleast sit at a stop light with the tach reading around 500 to 600 rpms. Is that a good rpm level for being in gear at a dead stop? Also my tach never sits at a constant rpm level when parked is that normal and she is a ***** to keep happy when cold could that be my electric choke?
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top