[gearhead1218]

Was going over everything while prepping the Cat for winter hibernation.
PS pump appears to be leaking at the shaft. Then the hoses could use replacing, the ram don't look the greatest, and play in the box.
Is it worth replacing everything or just putting a rack in it?
I'm not to concerned with originality at this point, and I'm thinking the cost will pretty be close.
I'm also considering going with a non-power rack.

 

[c7xr7]

I can't imaging replacing with a R&P would be the same price as replacing hoses and rebuilding the ram and even the steering box. The original system works pretty well if brought back to original. IMO.

 

[towcat]

Have you considered going with a Borgeson box, NPD page 102. that's what I should have done, but it wasn't out yet

 

[1969XR7Vert]

I like the original setup if you get everything in good working order. Also, keep in mind that (to my knowledge) there is no R&P which has the same turning radius as stock (in other words turning radius is increased when using an R&P setup).

Also, while the Borgeson setup that Carlton mentions is a good solution, it is not compatible with stock manual trans clutch linkage.

Regards,

Bob

 

[Old man]

Another thought / question on this subject. TCI advertises that their R & P setup does have the same turn radius as the original. They also say the manual rack will turn a bit easier than the original box. I'm still working on the front end & am considering this option. Any experience out there with this?

 

[towcat]

Another thought / question on this subject. TCI advertises that their R & P setup does have the same turn radius as the original. They also say the manual rack will turn a bit easier than the original box. I'm still working on the front end & am considering this option. Any experience out there with this?

Take a fools advice, go with the power option, it may turn a bit easier, but it's still a mother dog to turn when not moving!

 

[Old man]

I've already replaced the P/S with a manual box, that's not the issue. My question is whether the TCI rack & pinion is a good option. Just wondering if anyone has tried it???

 

[leonbray]

I like the original setup if you get everything in good working order. Also, keep in mind that (to my knowledge) there is no R&P which has the same turning radius as stock (in other words turning radius is increased when using an R&P setup).

Also, while the Borgeson setup that Carlton mentions is a good solution, it is not compatible with stock manual trans clutch linkage.

Regards,

Bob

The RRS R&P system, that bolts in in the same plane as the drag link, maintains the correct ackermann angles and turning circle as stock. It can also use the stock pump

 

[doctordesoto]

steeroids brackets (less than $ 300.00) a napa rebuilt "slow" caviler power rack (about $110.00) and a nother hun for fittings and hoses and you'll have to shorten your col @ the firewall and weld in a short splined section---i used unisteer u joints (clamp style instead of set screw type) will get you $180.00 more---so for about $600.00 you can have the power rack---the turn radius is slightly larger---the spindle stops miss the arm by about 5/32 inch
doctordesoto

 

[elimin8r]

I like this one but don't know about turning radius if it is less or not. Costs alot.

http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/rack.html

 

[gearhead1218]

All I can say at this point, with the responses thus far, is that I haven't been talked out of an R&P conversion.

 

[yeloxr7]

I tried twice with flaming river rack conversions. Big problem with my car is the location of the drivers side exhaust manifold being in the way of the connecting shaft between the column and the rack input shaft.

I eventually purchased a remanufactured stock-style gearbox from Borgeson and I have been happy with it.

We all need to recognize that even with all new steering gear and linkage there will be some perceived play in the steering, especially if our daily driver is a newer-model car.

 

[doctordesoto]

we had to get very creative wit the first 10 inches of headpipe on the driversside exhaust with our big block gt--a couple of tight radius sections did it--not something you can photograph in the car very well either---i think 99% of our driving is within +/- 20 deg of center but ocasionally i miss the full turn radius
i think highly enough of the como that i'm putting it in my 48 desoto vert---i'm shortening the steering arms 1 1/4 inch to allow for full turn radius
doctordesoto

 

[mo2872]

I'll second the Borgeson......there are always options for the clutch linkage, if your car is a manual.

 

[towcat]

I tried twice with flaming river rack conversions. Big problem with my car is the location of the drivers side exhaust manifold being in the way of the connecting shaft between the column and the rack input shaft.

I eventually purchased a remanufactured stock-style gearbox from Borgeson and I have been happy with it.

We all need to recognize that even with all new steering gear and linkage there will be some perceived play in the steering, especially if our daily driver is a newer-model car.

I used the non power rear steer rack from Flaming River and the rack input shaft is more to the right, which makes the shaft from the column to the rack at such an angle that the rear two exhaust tubes are in the way and had to be modified, also with the non power setup, it is a bear to turn when not moving, The power rack they sell, puts the input shaft closer to the frame and therefore make less angle for the shaft, and no mods to the exhaust. No matter what you go with, you need power steering to enjoy the ride! I KNOW

 

[yeloxr7]

All I know is that the bell/flange on my driver's-side manifold hangs in the center of the space between the engine and the body structure, and that it was directly between the end of the column and the input shaft to the fr racks. I would have had to drill a big hole through the manifold to make the connection. And no, headers were not an option. I wouldn't care for the extra noise and hassle.

 

[gearhead1218]

Thanks for all the input.
I think I'm going to follow the majority and stay with the stock set-up.

 

[cougar2]

The Borgeson steering box I would think would be the way to go. I will be using it and have heard many good things about it. Here is a link to it. It also uses the original bolt paturn to mount it and it looks stock without all the other leaky parts.
And here are a couple links to how to install it.
http://www.borgeson.com/xcart/catalog/19651970_Mustang_Power_Steering_Conversion_Box_Components-orderby_0-p-1-c-60.html

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=30r3VfMQnxo&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SNvLY7lx7fo&feature=related