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Discussion Starter #1
After 20 years of a seemingly average 351W in my 67, rebuilt by a former Ford mechanic, I'm playing around with the heads. They're D0OE's (4-barrel), and only had maybe 1,000 miles in those years. Those exhaust ports are so freaking tiny compared to my 351C t-barrel heads (coverted to 4-barrel valves several years ago).

The mechanic had to replace the 70 block with a 79, because the 70 had a crack. Just read that Ford raised the deck height in the early/mid 70's, so that takes away some of the 59/60cc combustion chamber compression advantage, right? The mechanic did the .030 bore, pistons are dished (his est. was 9.5 compression), edelbrock cam/lifters/springs for .448/.472 lift and .204/.210 duration @ .050, and edelbrock performer intake and 600cfm carb. Also ran a 980cfm holley double-pumper, but was just too much for the engine. I'll use that some day for my 351C - 521211 crane cam setup.

Simple things I was thinking of doing was picking up an Eastwood porting/polishing kit for the heads, replacing the new/stock style rocker arms with rollers from kmjperformance. Can't beat the $59 price, but sent them an email asking for the original manufacturer. Anyone had experience with this company, and particularly these rockers? Also plan to take the heads to a local engine guy to replace the press-in studs with screw-ins. Any idea on reasonable price I should expect to pay? I tried using a helicoil thread borer on some old 302's that resulted in destroying them - one thread went off line - another idiotic moment for me. Final, and possible best bang for the buck will be replacing my dual point distributor with a duraspark II or Ford HEI. Read threads on the duraspark I and II, but need to read more... Any advice very welcome. Eric.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBF-FORD-302-351W-Steel-Roller-Tip-Rocker-Arms-1-6-3-8-/380317415880?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item588caf39c8
 

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Eric,

Two things. 1. You are going to need screw-in studs, not so much for themselves, but for the guideplates you are going to have to run with anything but a rail style rocker on those heads. 2. I would recommend spending more to get full roller rockers. The majority of the rocker friction is in the pivot and the ones you've pointed out still have a traditional pivot ball.

As for ignition, I love my Duraspark dist triggering a MSD 6AL.

Finally, if you have dished pistons and a taller deck block, I am a little skeptical that the CR is 9.5, I'd say it is closer to 9.

About doing your own studs, someone recently (here) posted (and described) a picture of a tool they made/used which locates on the next stud over from the one you are doing and you work your way down the line, looked good to me. You could make something or maybe there is something offered commercially so you could do the same.

Regards,

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the input, Bob. With the dished pistons, along the the better roller rockers and guide plates (just needed someone to confirm), would I be well served as well to pick up higher ratio rockers and longer pushrods? I think the original arms were 1.6, and have seen 1.7's on eBay. Current pushrods are 8 3/16" or 8.2's (?). I read elsewhere that the increased ratio arms and longer pushrods allow for bumped up compression, providing the effect of having a higher performance cam and improved compression.

The pushrods have black rings right past the ball ends. They were new when the mechanic put them in the engine. Good idea to replace those as well. My downside here is that stud replacement, rockers, pushrods and gaskets are bumping up my effort to the low-end price of some good aluminum heads. Anyone have some, by the way?

Next to last, is there any way the mechanic could have screwed up the degreeing of the cam? I have the intake, heads, and water pump off. Would just need to take off the timing chain and balancer. If so, would someone have a good degree wheel laying around they don't need anymore?

Will post pics to a new photobucket subfolder later today, if I can find the camera-to-pc cable. God, I love the 70 Cleveland 2-barrel heads (with 4-barrel valves) on my other engine. Makes my 70 351W look emasculated.
 

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eric, i have a couple thoughts for you as well. 1st start looking for heads on racingjunk.com , craigslist and ebay. i had picked up a set of world windsor seinors of ebay for 600 bucks. 2nd the other thing is taller deck windsor blocks are more desirable because that early one the intakes are different . have you considered a 392 or 427 stroker kit for this engine? it will make it a monster! the better question i have for you is what is your budget? thers alot out there for these engines just need to know where you cango with it . justin, btw i am northern lake county il .i have a degree wheel if you would like to borrow it .
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I figure 3-400 would be my limit. Love that racingjunk website, and found some nice rollers for $115, per link below (7/16"). Also saw another posting for rockers and stud kit (1/2" too big?) for combined $150. If any experts can tell me that degreeing might be an issue, I'll definitely take you up on borrowing that degree wheel, jk. I also have that beast of a cleveland I'd like th check. Pardon the ignorance, but does the balancer have to be off? Bob, I'll check for that tool posted in mc.net, and if anyone has the thread, please post as well. Thanks all. Eric.

http://www.racingjunk.com/category/1293/Rocker_Arms/post/1788703/302-351W-ALUMINUM-ROLLER-ROCKER-ARMS-.html?imageIndex=0&showSuperSize=true
 

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I would like to point out that the 1970 4V Windsor heads are no different than 1970 2V heads, and in fact that they are really not very good heads at all from a performance standpoint. You can get GT-40 Windsor heads from any number of places including your local junk yard that are much better for performance. They were used in Mercury Mountaneers and Ford Explorers in the late 1990's for example. Or buy a set of aftermarket aluminum or cast iron heads.

In any case, don't spend any money on the D0 351W heads, it will be wasted.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Royce/others, would going to GT-40 heads or hi-flow heads require new intake and headers? That would likely be another $300 min, right? If I pick up the roller rockers for $115, studs for $45 (need to find that tool to ensure I could do it myself), and the port/polish kit from Eastwood for $32, and duraspark II and coil for $150 max, I'm under $350 invested. Rockers could add maybe 15-20hp, mild port/polish another 10-15, and distributor another 15??? Any of the numbers in the ballpark?

For the longest time, I've wanted to buy a Paxton supercharger. With the lower compression engine setup, maybe I could find a good used one for under a grand... there I go again dreaming.
 

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Yep, what Royce said. I was going to point out the 2V/4V no difference but it slipped my mind.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
OR, what if I used those ever-so-beautiful 351C heads. I've seen threads about custom water passage work to accommodate for 351W blocks. Anyone here tried it? Will check threads. Can't believe there's a better head out there for my Windsor than what I have in those 351C 2-barrel heads, with 4-barrel valves. I spent $600+ on that job. No wonder I never had money when I was single - that and every Friday/Saturday hitting the bar scene.
 

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The best place for Cleveland heads is on a Cleveland. The Clevor thing is a bad joke.

Develop a good plan, then stick to it. Buy good things, get good results.
 

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OR, what if I used those ever-so-beautiful 351C heads. I've seen threads about custom water passage work to accommodate for 351W blocks. Anyone here tried it? Will check threads. Can't believe there's a better head out there for my Windsor than what I have in those 351C 2-barrel heads, with 4-barrel valves. I spent $600+ on that job. No wonder I never had money when I was single - that and every Friday/Saturday hitting the bar scene.
Think not? Take a look at this SBF head comparison site for some insight. While a set of 351C-2V heads flow about 30% more than stock D0OE 351W-4V heads, almost any set of aftermarket Windsor heads will beat that by a large margin.

Heck the ported cast iron World Windsor Senior heads I'm using on my 393W flow almost 50% more than what Cleveland 2Vs flow... My heads were tested to flow 200/148cfm I/E at .300 valve lift, and 302/198 at .600 lift. That's on par with stock Edelbrock Victor Juniors! I paid $400 for the World WIndsor Seniors off eBay... Money well spent.

I too wasted a bunch on money on a set of E7TEs, with porting and bigger 1.94/1.60 valves. I think I had $600 into those and they only flowed 170/145 at .300 and barely 200/160 at .550
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Milo, that site doesn't show 351C 2-barrel heads with 4-barrel valves. The ports on those 2-barrel heads are so freaking big! I'd surely love to see flow stats of this head's config. If anyone has, please post. Will keep the Cleveland with that engine, since it has the radical cam, water pump, offy intake and high lift/duration crane cam. Anyone got an early 70's beater I could throw this thing in and see how she runs?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
By the way, that 351C cam is 246/256 duration at .050, with .570/.590 lift - if anyone might be able to run some theoretical flow (on 70 2-barrel heads and 4-barrel valves) and hp numbers, and throw on the offy single plane and 980 cfm holly carb, oh and flat top pistons with valve reliefs.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Okay, just received the head porting kit from Eastwood, including the air grinder. Didn't pick up the carbide burrs, thinking I could find them way cheaper on eBay. Anyone recommend a seller/burrs I should check out. 4 burrs from Eastwood were about as much as the kit/grinder. How much of the exhaust guide "nose" that hangs out from the bottom of the guide can one safely grind down? Is it an oil flow to the valve guides/stems? If I get the burrs, and just for the burrs, could I use those along with the cleaning solution in my parts cleaner tank flowing via the pump over the port I'm grinding?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Here's the best pic I could provide, showing the exhaust valve area with the iron coming south and down from the bottom of the valve guide. Anyone cleaned that up? Looking for any good pics as well of a good 351W D0OE/other head porting. Fluid in the intake valve area is parts cleaner fluid. Eric

View attachment 24539
 

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Discussion Starter #17

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Discussion Starter #18
OMG - what about the rockers/studs/pushrods on my 351C???

I have those beautiful 1.7 ratio rockers, 7/16" stud/rocker threads from my 351C, with bit longer pushrods (hardened) than the weld-tips from the original. All I would need would be to have the stud bases shaved and buy guide plates? Would this be a possibly big bump in performance? I know the rocker ratio would be good. How about the added length on the pushrod (see pic). I'm really excited... Hope the feedback is thumbs up. Eric.
View attachment 24747 View attachment 24748
 

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Re: OMG - what about the rockers/studs/pushrods on my 351C???

The rocker studs are simply pressed in place on the 351W heads. So the bases will also have to be threaded in order to use screw-in studs.
 

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Re: OMG - what about the rockers/studs/pushrods on my 351C???

I have those beautiful 1.7 ratio rockers, 7/16" stud/rocker threads from my 351C, with bit longer pushrods (hardened) than the weld-tips from the original. All I would need would be to have the stud bases shaved and buy guide plates? Would this be a possibly big bump in performance? I know the rocker ratio would be good. How about the added length on the pushrod (see pic). I'm really excited... Hope the feedback is thumbs up. Eric.
View attachment 24747 View attachment 24748
Are you talking about 351C parts on a W? Won't work.
If you're talking about using the above parts on a 351C motor then you need to check rocker tip alignment with non-stock length pushrods.

You're kinda all over the place.
 
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