[Michaels 69]

I have a 69 with a 351W I need a complete rebuild kit who has it for the best price and best quality??<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
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<o>Any pros and cons on these kits?</o>
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Thanks, Michael<o></o>

 

[ahunt191]

The kits use cheap control arms and tie rods. I recommend finding some nice MOOG lower control arms and tie rods. As for your upper control arms, you have two options: 1) get a pair of new Scott Drake or Dorman upper control arms, 2) provided your UCA frames aren't cracked or striped, you can rebuild them with new ball joints and bushings. Check out http://partsgeek.com for pretty good prices and cheap shipping.

 

[67.5xr7]

Front or rear,.... Something broken or just worn out?????

 

[Michaels 69]

It's the front but I will need the rear too in time, it's just wore out.

Michael

 

[Jan Ove]

Laurel Mountain Mustang has some nice complete kits, with great service and a good price too

 

[GYRHEAD]

Ditto on the comment regarding some of the low price kits advertised in the magazines (PST, etc) Very poor quality, particularly of the critical components like tie rods and ball joints. It is a big job that you don't want to redo because of low quality parts.

Also, consider your end objectives when rebuilding. Daily driver? Track day car? OEM rubber bushings are nice on a daily driver - use poly on the sway bar pillow blocks and end-links to sharpen responses without a big impact to ride quality. Strut rod bushings are CRITICAL to safety. Get good ones - some people feel that poly strut bushings can over stree the strut rod, resulting in a rod failure - which can destroy your car and kill you.

Stock rate springs were selected by smart Ford engineers, so stick with them for a good ride/handling balance. Upgraded sway bar diameter front, and addition of a rear bar with the best shocks you can afford will do WONDERS!

Buy good brand name components such as Moog, TRW or McQuay Norris. You will spend a bit more, but money wisely spent.

 

['69cugr]

I contacted mustangs plus and they asked a number of questions about the car and my driving habits. They then put together a complete custom kit for me. Everthing fit perfect and my ride and handleing are 10000 times better. Total cost including everthing, shocks, rear leafs, spring installer, etc, 1,200.00, That was in 2007.

 

[67.5xr7]

How deep are your pockets? Here are a few simple and inexpensive items to check and replace if needed. Strut rod bushings; are yours cracked and weathered, if they are spongy they'll change the toe angle during lane changes. Power steering cylinder bushings; when the rubber is tired and cracked, it will contribute to sloppy steering control. Power steering ball stud assembly on the control valve: also contributes to sloppy steering, IMO a weak link. Idler arm assembly: this is a big one, it is what all the steering linkage pushes against, you don't what any play here at all! Lower control arm eccentrics: another weak link, upgrade to the plate type and don't look back! What's left?? The heavy hardware!! Steering boxes, upper and lower control arms, tie rods, ball joints and misc. connecting hardware. x2 on getting quality components,..... poor quality rubber and ill fitting tapers and thread patterns, are so much scrap metal. See you around the Front Range sometime!

 

[ahunt191]

1967 Mustang LCA Left: Cheap LCA Right: MOOG

The MOOG LCA is made of thicker metal, uses a riveted ball joint with support under strut rod rather than a press-in ball joint and has an additional bend down the sides for structural support. I had the cheap LCA on for about a year. It is hard to tell by the picture, but in just a year it was already bent.

 

[67.5xr7]

Nice to see that the MOOG has the strut rod mount backing plate, and the bolt pattern for the articulating strut rods.

 

[ahunt191]

Nice to see that the MOOG has the strut rod mount backing plate, and the bolt pattern for the articulating strut rods.

The bolt pattern is not for the articulating strut rod. I switched to 1967 Mustang strut rods.

Left to Right: Original 1967 Cougar, Cheap 1967 Mustang, MOOG 1967 Mustang

 

[Michaels 69]

Laurel Mountain Mustang has some nice complete kits, with great service and a good price too

Has anyone bought a kit from these guys?? How is it and what do you think of the quality?

Thanks, Michael

 

[Jan Ove]

Update on the Laurel Mountain Mustang suspension kit, don´t bother, save your money and buy with better quality, the A arms, bushings and tie rods might be worth it, haven´t tested enough to see how well they hold up yet, but the springs are [email protected], front coils where too low and soft, they where just as low and soft as my original worn out springs, same with the rear leafs, also the rear leafs had mismatch on the centerbolt, with one set offcenter, thus the rear axle did not get straight mounted, so the springs in this set was a real downer for me

 

[IDRILL4GASOIL]

Laurel Mountain Mustang has different quality sets. I would not go with the low end. They are nice people and run a good business. You pay for what you get. Moog makes some of the best.

 

[Jan Ove]

Well the kit i bought from them, is the kit they have listed on their web site, and there is no mention if they have different levels of quality on those kits either.
Yes they are nice people, and do provide a great service to their customers

 

[gearhead1218]

I bought the Mustang's Plus system about 5 years ago. I replaced one LCA after 2 years and around 1000 miles due to a bad ball joint.
I WILL be replacing both LCA's with better quality items.
The rest of the system has so far been trouble free.

 

[Jan Ove]

I bought the Mustang's Plus system about 5 years ago. I replaced one LCA after 2 years and around 1000 miles due to a bad ball joint.
I WILL be replacing both LCA's with better quality items.
The rest of the system has so far been trouble free.

Well dang it then John seems like i´ll have to start order new parts again then, since i´ve put 1600 miles on it since i put on the parts, but on a serious note then, it has recently developed a slight clunking noise in the front end again, so if it´s not fixed by going over and tightening down all bolts and nuts, then i guess new parts might be in order again

 

[gearhead1218]

Well dang it then John seems like i´ll have to start order new parts again then, since i´ve put 1600 miles on it since i put on the parts, but on a serious note then, it has recently developed a slight clunking noise in the front end again, so if it´s not fixed by going over and tightening down all bolts and nuts, then i guess new parts might be in order again

I was a tad bent out of shape when I found out the ball joint was bad. But MP was good about replacing the control arm.
But as the saying goes, you get what you pay for.