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Discussion Starter #1
Well, as promised, I am starting a new thread to cover the 331 buildup. I have all (most...knock on wood) my ducks in a row and will start assembly this weekend. I have taken a few precursory pictures of the gear as well as a list of the specific parts. Prior to beginning this, I do need to thank Art for providing time and advise on some of the parts. Thanks Art!

First off is the prepped block. 65 289 block .040 over, painted what I think is going to look good with the TW heads after I get them polished up. (of note in the first pic is the 4R70W).
passenger_side_painted.jpg

Of note in the second besides the crappy resolution of the paint, are the '03 Bullitt wheels.

driver_side_painted.jpg


Here are several pics of the parts. Since I am limited to 5 pictures per post, I'll follow this post up with the intake, heads, carb and dizzy pics.


The Centech is my HF Calipers... The Slender White box is the Trick Flow Stage 1 Cam.
parts3.jpg

7k Hydraulic Roller lifters in the foreground (opposite side from the above pic)
parts1.jpg


Straight on shot, after "learning" about wrist pins by stabbing myself, I stopped at the 2nd piston/connecting rod mockup. I need to wait until I am prepared to complete them all anyhow as they need lubed.
parts2.jpg




Here is the parts list:

Short Block
65 289 block .040 over
New Eagle Cast Steel Crankshaft
New Eagle SIR Lightweight Steel I Beam Connecting Rods ( Bushed Fit Pins)
Keith Black Hypereutectic Pistons (matched Rods and Pistons balanced to within .5 grams heaviest to lightest, I already paired them)
Mahle Plasma-Moly Piston Ring Set with oil rail support rings
Clevite 77 Performance rod and main bearing set
28oz Harmonic Balancer and Flexplate (164 tooth for the 4R70W)
Rotating Kit's are External Balanced 28oz, +/-2 Gram balance on pistons and rods, 1/2 gram or less on crankshaft balance, bobweight balance card included.
Summit Racing High Volume Oil Pump

Top End
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 170cc (TFS-51400004)
Trick Flow Stage 1 Hydraulic Roller Cam
Doug Herbert 7000 rpm Hyraulic roller lifters (link bar retrofit)
Profession Products Cyclone Chrome Intake
Pertronix HEI Distributor (Still need to swap gear for roller)
Summit 600 cfm Electric Choke, Vacuum Secondary 4 Barrel Carb
K&N Off base filter and top filter
Summit Racing 110 gph mechanical fuel pump


Misc. Parts
Summit Racing High-Volume water pump
New Aluminum timing Chain Cover
Summit Racing Double Roller timing chain and gears
New Camshaft eccentrics
Profession Products Stainless Steel Engine Bolt Kit
ARP Head Bolts
ARP Rod Bolts
ARP Oil pump stud
Remaining Bolts are all new
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Here are the remaining pics:

Twisted Wedge Heads and Sanderson Ceramic Coated Headers:
Heads and Header.jpg


Here is theProfession Products Chrome Cyclone Intake Manifold:

Intake.jpg

Air Cleaner, Dizzy, and Carb (Wave Goodbye to the old 289!)
Carb Dizzy and Intake.jpg

New Crank and Miloden Oil Pan:

Crank and Pan.jpg

Better Pic of the Lifters:

Lifters again.jpg




For those of you that read this far and notice there is one important piece missing. That is the rockers. Since the heads were a last minute change, I am still waiting on my Harland Sharp Roller Rockers (I know, I planned the block color that way, lol) as I had already ordered Scorpions for the GT40Ps but they are pedestal mount. The Harland Sharps are designed for these heads too, so they are worth the wait....and the extra $150. Pushrods are needed as well, but thats the wagon before the horse.
 

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Nice stuff!
When you replace the distributor gear be sure to maintain the 4.031-4.035" dimension as shown in the Ford Racing parts catalog.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks. I'll post a video after it is in the car. Prior to sitting it in though, I have the dreaded Cowl Repair to take care of. I want to take care of it once I pull the old engine as well as smooth out and repaint the engine bay. That might be sooner than later if the government shut down comes, as I'll have a wee bit more time.

Other things on the list prior to start up once it is in are the purchase and tuning of the Baumann as well as the adaptation of a 4dr Explorer Aluminum Drive Shaft to mate with the 4R70W and the explorer rear.

I already have the exhaust, 2 1/4" Summit dual pipes. I'll be sure and post a video of it, but if I don't like it, I'll change out the mufflers for Pypes Violators.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Nice stuff!
When you replace the distributor gear be sure to maintain the 4.031-4.035" dimension as shown in the Ford Racing parts catalog.
I have never actually replaced a distributor gear. How would you go about doing it yourself, or would you take it to a machine shop to have them remove the old and press on the new?
 

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I have never actually replaced a distributor gear. How would you go about doing it yourself, or would you take it to a machine shop to have them remove the old and press on the new?
First read the cam instructions. Some roller cams are ground on iron cores, the iron gear that's on the MSD distributor is for an iron camshaft. Steel roller camshafts must have a steel, bronze or poly distributor gear.

You can replace the gear yourself but it's tricky.
The distributor shaft already has a hole and the new gear only has a hole in only one side. If you're not careful you'll have an oversize hole in the shaft and the gear is T I G H T on the shaft.

If the gear is too high the rotation of the camshaft will pull the gear downward and wear the distributor and likely break the roll pin. If the gear is too low the distributor won't seat properly in the block.

If you're not familiar with this I recommend you take the new distributor, new roller compatible gear and a copy of the Ford Racing instructions to a good automotive machine shop.
I recommend the poly gear, the steel gear tends to wear the camshaft quickly (my experience).
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
UPDATE:

I didn't have a whole lot of time today, lot of other things on the "honey do list"; however, with the time I had I think I did fair. For those of you that didn't see the 289 post this started in, this is my first engine build ever, so I read, look at the parts and block, scratch head, read, look again, read, read it somewhere else, and then finally do it. Sometimes, (as you can see from the Cam thrust plate bolt, I needed to re-read again). Anyhow, here tis':


I started with the cam, allowing for easy access to the bearings for lube as well as being able to see what I was doing because everything is new to me (Edit: as per Trick Flow's recommendation I cleaned the cam thoroughly with Mineral Spirits, thankfully I had some sitting around):

Cam_in_1.jpg

Cam in front view (Edit: I would really suggest getting the correct bolt for installing a cam, it is such a pain to not nick the journals without something to hold on to):

Cam_in_2.jpg

This is why you follow torque specs, even if they seem wrong. I replaced this Cam thrust bolt with 1/4-20 3/4" Grade 8 bolts (both even though I only snapped 1). I retorqued them to the 10# that was stated instead of the 40-45# that I thought it was talking about for the Cam Bolt.

Cam_Thrust _Bolt_40lbs.jpg

Main Bearings in on the block (remember, don't touch the surfaces); they also went in dry (no lube underneath) as recommended.

Main_bearings_in1.jpg

Same thing here for the uppers (the bolts were not reused, ARP's replaced them):

Main_bearings_in2.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Crankshaft chilling out after bearings got lubed and then relubed some more (Edit: I cleaned this thoroughly with Mineral Spirits like the cam):

Crank_chilling.jpg

Main caps on, lubed and torqued in sequence (28#, 56#, then 85# with oil as per ARP). I'll check clearances tomorrow on the bearings and when I do I'll reassemble the bolts with ARPs moly lube and only torque to 75# per their recomendations. You can also see the lubed cam journals below.

Mains_on.jpg

Timing chain and eccentric on. I ended up needing the short cam dowel with the roller cam instead of the long one included with the cam. Thanks to the purchase of Dura-bond FKF-1 I had both (along with both types of crank keyways and a ton of other parts).

End_of_day_1a.jpg

Cam sprocket was installed straight up (down in the pic since the engine is flipped), not advanced or retarded.

Timing_Chain_on_w_eccentric.jpg

This is the end of the day pic:

End_of_day_1b.jpg

Tomorrow I will check crank and cam endplay, as well as bearing clearances. I am confident bearing clearances are going to be good because turning it over took less than 1# of resistance. However, I still want to check them all, I just need to run to Sears and grab a magnetic dial indicator tomorrow morning. Afterwards, its on to installing the pistons, rings, and the rest of the short block.
 

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You should have waited about installing the cam. You still have to notch the bottom of the cylinders.
After you notch the cylinders everything has to be cleaned.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You still have to notch the bottom of the cylinders.
I was fairly certain this kit did not need notched when I bought it. To make sure, this morning after getting the dial indicator I started checking clearances. To cover the first things I wanted to check I checked crankshaft and camshaft endplay. Crankshaft endplay was .003 which a slightly too little per the .004-.008 recommended. I'll be pulling the thrust bearing and wet sanding it on a piece of glass to get it closer after I check to make sure the cap was centered correctly. Camshaft endplay was .005 which is also within the recommended .004-.008 specs.

Deck_height_0.jpg Crank_endpay2.jpg Crank_endpay1.jpg

That said, the clearance between the rod bolts and piston skirts looks good to me and was .15" to be exact. It looks like it will get closer than what is shown in the pic, but this was the closest it ever got. I'll have to check the others, no doubt, but I think it will be fine. Here is a pic:

Rod_bolt_Clearance.jpg
 

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I was fairly certain this kit did not need notched when I bought it.

That said, the clearance between the rod bolts and piston skirts looks good to me and was .15" to be exact. It looks like it will get closer than what is shown in the pic, but this was the closest it ever got. I'll have to check the others, no doubt, but I think it will be fine. Here is a pic:

View attachment 25465
That's cool, I stand corrected
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
That's cool, I stand corrected
I thank you for that kind of info. I am not certain on everything I need to do, so mentioning the need to check things like this is important. I checked the main clearances and they were all .002-.003 which is within the .001-.003 recommended specs. Pic below:

002_thousandths_bearings2.jpg

I also rechecked the endplay again and the initial .003 clearance was due to the cap not being centered. After checking the bearing clearance (above) I retorqued the cap making sure it was centered this time (along with using the moly lube and to 75#). This time the endplay was between .004 and .005, within specs.
 

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You can "seat" the thrust by snugging the center main cap bolts, then with a deadblow hammer or a regular hammer and a wood block, rap the front of the crank then the back.

Then torque the center main cap.

Also, before you bolt the heads on, use your dial indicator and find #1 TDC and mark your dampener.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You can "seat" the thrust by snugging the center main cap bolts, then with a deadblow hammer or a regular hammer and a wood block, rap the front of the crank then the back.

Then torque the center main cap.
I am working off of 2 books and a video to keep my stuff straight. The video was the only one which recommended "seating" the thrust bearings this way. I used a rubber mallet to do it, couldn't really tell how much of a difference it made so I left it out of the post since the 2 books didn't say to do it.

Also, before you bolt the heads on, use your dial indicator and find #1 TDC and mark your dampener.
If I understand this correctly, I should use the dial indicator to pinpoint TDC on cylinder #1 and then verify which mark is TDC on the balancer (mine already has marks). I would think it would be best to just install the heads, intake and distributor at the same time as well since it will be at TDC where I need it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
UPDATE:

So I slacked off Sunday and only got 1 piston in (besides checking clearances as posted above). I forgot the oil support ring so I guess it was good I only did 1, because I still have to take care of it. I'll take a couple pictures showing how they go for those of you that look at this in the future and are lost like me since there was nothing that explicitely laid it out in "noob" terms.

Anyways, it wasn't altogether unproductive as I went back and checked all the clearances as per Art's concern and then did some research on what is an acceptable clearance for rod end-to-piston sleeve clearances. Turns out, the recommendation is 0.040-0.080-inch clearance as per Mustang50Magazine's 419 stroker build here. Therefore, the .153 clearance keeps me well within acceptable limits. Also, since some may read this for reference in the future, I decided to post a pic of Eagle's recommendations (at the bottom of the pic). Also, I included a couple other sheets that may or may not be useful in the future.


YOU CAN DOUBLE CLICK AND ZOOM


General Piston/Ring Info:
Piston_diagram.jpg

Ring Gap Calculation Table for all builds:
Ring_gap.jpg

View o the oil spacer ring on a stroker piston with intersecting wrist pin:
Piston_spacer_ring.jpg

Various piston alignments:

Piston_Clearance_alignment.jpg
Eagle Rod Clearances and Torque specs:

Rod_specs.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Sorry for the lack of an update this weekend, had some scope creep from the wife on some raised flower beds. Based on her adding to the list though, I decided to add to the list too, and therefore, the build has gone from a carb'd and HEI stroker to a EFI (megasquirt) and EDIS (I was actually looking for an excuse to go EFI since I have the explorer upper and lower intake already).

Megasquirt, full harness, and all EDIS gear, I ended up paying less than $400 shipped for everything. Cheaper than my HEI and carb.
megasquirt_2.jpg
megasquirt_1.jpg
megasquirt_3.jpg

High flow fuel pump, Carter P74028, 50 GPH @ 100 PSI, New $40 shipped
high_psi_pump.jpg

Feeder fuel pump, Carter P4594, 72 GPH @ 6 PSI, New $50 shipped
low_psi_pump.jpg

This weekend I expect to continue the build, hopefully making it to wrapping up the short block. After completing the long block, (which is going full serpentine) I expect to outline the tuning of the Megasquirt, EDIS-8, and Baumann TCS (also rewiring the whole car with an EZWiring kit I already have at the same time). Should be a fairly fun resto how-to ending with a very driver friendly cougar.
 

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Go Tony! Very hi-tech build you have going there!

Regards,

Bob
 

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And a build it yourself EFI controller? How cool is that? As an EE with circuit design experience and love of building things, me like!
 

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I've always wanted to try the Megasquirt system since it is so adaptable and adjustable. HERE is a link I had bookmarked.
 
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