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Discussion Starter #1
Ok after I drive the car even a short time (today breezy 80's 30 minute cruise) and pull back into the garage the radiator pushes water out the overflow (no I dont have an overflow catch tank) I just replaced the thermostat ( that was an experience I don't want to experience again) even drilled 3 1/16 holes ( racer friend told me that trick to keep a little water flowing even below the degree of the thermostat) and the timing is dead on, put in a bottle of water wetter all not helping. Any thoughts on the next step? :smoke:
 

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You have to make sure you do not over fill the radiator to begin with. Or it will push the excess out the overflow when warm. Fill to just over the core mabey half an inch or so above do not fill to the top.
 

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Agree - maybe your filling it to full..? See how much you lose after you put a catch can in .....
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Not overfilling it, to the line on the side of the core that says when cold. I will replace the cap. :smoke:
 

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Which car are you talking about? I know 67/68's would spit coolant after shutdown hot when brand new. My father added a overflow tank to his, now mine 67 standard when the car was almost new because of this problem. I would guess this can happen on all 67-73 cats. As others have said check or replace the cap as a bad cap will make the problem worse. BTW drilling holes in a Tstat is not a good idea as the engine will run too cool on cooler days and or low load. It will take longer to warm up also. Low engine temp will cause increased ring and cylinder wall wear.

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The 73 vert Bill. I'm going to get a new cap and install an overflow tank. The 351C's from what Ive been told are troublesome on running hot. I don't think I have to worry about taking to long to warm up being here in So Fla :smoke:
 

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AHH - it's a clevo - does it have the little restictor "hat" in there? I think its a must on those (Don had some I think - repop's)
 

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Iv'e replaced my radiator with an aluminum 24. used to have stock 20 inch. i even have dual cooling 11 inch electric fans with fan shroud. no more over heating problems but still get radiator overflow. ive tried different rad caps. The thermostat in there now is newish but going to try replacing it anyway with a high flow thermostat from summit. also i have a high flow water pump lined up for it when i have the time to put it in. i still need an over flow tank to catch the coolant.
before i swapped out for the electric fans and shroud it would over flow and i would have to fill the rad just above the fins of the core. now i have it almost filled all to the top with new coolant and it over flows and sits an inch maybe lower than the radiator cap and then doesnt over flow much at all after that unless im running her real hard. but now i get to keep a lot more coolant in my radiator after getting electric fans and shroud. im happy with it. but still in the same boat as you trying to get it to not drip what so ever. over flow tank soon for me.
but you definitly need to get a fan shroud if you dont have one. and a clutch fan or electric fans. i live in california. most of the time im dealing with 85-105 degree weather. this will be my first summer really driving her. dont know what to expect but i hope im prepared enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Is there any special psi rating on the cap, everything I see listed is 13 but I think I read a post somewhere I cant find again 16? No the thermostat isnt the "C" from WCCC but if the new cap and overflow tank doesnt work I will be looking for that special thermostat with the hat. :smoke:
 

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13 psi is stock and should be fine. Higher PSI caps will just put more stress on the heater core and hoses. A 50/50 coolant water mix will boil at 256 F using a 13 lb cap at sea level if my figures are correct. If you are going to use a overflow tank get a cap made for a closed system. The cap will have a second rubber gasket in place of the tin disk in the base of the cap.

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Wow who knew replacing a thermostat would be such a mission (even without breaking the bolt off in the block) Thanks to all for the help and advice. :beer: DesertDawg turned me onto a cleve site but I missed his post originaly so was still fumbling around. As posted I have the incorrect tstat and will be ordering one from summit tomorrow. I guess since the Cleve is such an unusual animal I will include that little ditty in all future posts. :smoke:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BRA-333-180/Application/?prefilter=0
 

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Discussion Starter #16
delete summit, they won't have any in stock till the 30th or so. Order placed at WCCC, once again I should have just started there. :smoke:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok is this just a fluke and i'm being paranoid or should I be investigating something else. Got the new period correct tstat today (thanks Don) and the brass restrictor plate was in the block as pictured by many helping in my dilema. So ran the car without the new radiator cap and made sure I had a good fluid level in the radiator before I put the cap on, cap on and let the car idle for a couple minutes more while I put the tools away and shut it off and grabbed a smoke. Then I look under the car and there is water everywhere. not from the overflow tube but 2 holes in the upper radiator hose spewing water all over the block. Now in hindsight I did think about replacing the upper radiator hose but thought ah why bother, first mistake. So now off to the local parts store to get a new upper and lower with new clamps. So fluke or should I be looking into something else? :smoke:
 

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:p:Awe for cryin out loud man........(said in lousy Irish accent), I think you found your trouble all along!! I bet you are golden once you replce that....
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks Bad69Cat, I usualy only use my dreadful scotish brouge attempt on the golf course, it matchs my game so i'll leave it there. :lol2:I replaced the top today and havent seen any leaks let it run for about 20 min no overflow either.Will replace the bottom ( yes one thing at a time for easier troubleshooting) and then hit the highway, or blvd as the case may be. :smoke:
 

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This is a common problem with a blown head gasket.
If it is overheating at all and all other problems have been addressed it might be time to consider this not too pleasant possibility. Can be hard to detect a minor leak but testing for hydrocarbons in the coolant would be the first step. You can find detection kits online for about $30. Pulls gas from the cooling system through a liquid that reacts if HC is present.

Something like: http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-75500-C..._1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1332890552&sr=1-1
 
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