Steering box
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I do not think there is any such system.
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735 Posts
I have a 68 std cat and opted for the Borgeson box. In my case I am using a manual steering drag link, idler arm and pitman arm since the idler was toast. The PS idler is non serviceable as opposed the manual idler, that is why I went that route. The other option is to use the Pitman adapter for the drag link assuming the idler is ok.
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6,137 Posts
Ask Santa for a wheelbarrow load of $$$$$. Borgenson boxes are pricey.
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6,137 Posts
I'm STILL rocking the Toyota box I paid $35 for at the salvage yard in 1993. Works flawlessly and never leaked. Athough I do have a brand new one ready to go in this winter along with a new universal joint to replace the rag joint.
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243 Posts
OK Local Hero,
Please tell us all the details about your Toyota steering box set up. (year and type, any mods, etc.)
I for one am very curious and would like a much lower cost solution to replace our old design with a new one.
Thanks in advance,
Please tell us all the details about your Toyota steering box set up. (year and type, any mods, etc.)
I for one am very curious and would like a much lower cost solution to replace our old design with a new one.
Thanks in advance,
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6,137 Posts
LOL! I should have known THIS was coming......
Long story short, mine is from a late 70s Toyota Cressida wagon. But they're pretty much all the same. Later model Isuzu boxes work too and should be easier to find. I notched the subframe rail slightly, notched the shock tower slightly, shortened the column about an inch and a half and modified the rag joint to match up with the yoke. The pitman arm is a hybrid, half Toyota and half Ford. I used a manual steering Cougar center link.
Between the junkyard steering box and some adapters for the pressure hose, I have less than $50 in the whole swap. I did this back in 1993 while the engine was out of the car. I had no idea that other people had done this same swap on other classic Fords to get rid of the slave cylinder and associated parts. I thought I was going to be the Lone Wolf on this. Turns out I wasn't.
Short story longer...... It clears the headers well and eliminates the drop down bracket mod that's required for headers. I never even rebuilt the box and it has never leaked a drop of fluid. I'm about at the end of the adjustment range on the "sloppiness" scale so I sourced another one from a salvage yard out west. I've since had this new one rebuilt and I plan to swap it in this coming winter along with a universal joint to replace the rag joint. I've gone over 30K miles with this and have NEVER had an issue except for one blown pressure hose that I've since re-routed and it's been trouble free ever since.
Please don't ask for pictures. I did this at a time when I was not documenting anything as I went along. I could try to snap a pic of it in the car now.... but the car is parked in the corner of the shop for the winter as of this past weekend.
However........ if you sift through this lengthy thread, there is some helpful info in it regarding the swap as well as some good pictures from another member who took what I did and went 100X better.
http://www.mercurycougar.net/forums/showthread.php?3969-P.S.-conversion&highlight=toyota+steering+box
Long story short, mine is from a late 70s Toyota Cressida wagon. But they're pretty much all the same. Later model Isuzu boxes work too and should be easier to find. I notched the subframe rail slightly, notched the shock tower slightly, shortened the column about an inch and a half and modified the rag joint to match up with the yoke. The pitman arm is a hybrid, half Toyota and half Ford. I used a manual steering Cougar center link.
Between the junkyard steering box and some adapters for the pressure hose, I have less than $50 in the whole swap. I did this back in 1993 while the engine was out of the car. I had no idea that other people had done this same swap on other classic Fords to get rid of the slave cylinder and associated parts. I thought I was going to be the Lone Wolf on this. Turns out I wasn't.
Short story longer...... It clears the headers well and eliminates the drop down bracket mod that's required for headers. I never even rebuilt the box and it has never leaked a drop of fluid. I'm about at the end of the adjustment range on the "sloppiness" scale so I sourced another one from a salvage yard out west. I've since had this new one rebuilt and I plan to swap it in this coming winter along with a universal joint to replace the rag joint. I've gone over 30K miles with this and have NEVER had an issue except for one blown pressure hose that I've since re-routed and it's been trouble free ever since.
Please don't ask for pictures. I did this at a time when I was not documenting anything as I went along. I could try to snap a pic of it in the car now.... but the car is parked in the corner of the shop for the winter as of this past weekend.
However........ if you sift through this lengthy thread, there is some helpful info in it regarding the swap as well as some good pictures from another member who took what I did and went 100X better.
http://www.mercurycougar.net/forums/showthread.php?3969-P.S.-conversion&highlight=toyota+steering+box
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243 Posts
Thanks Mark ! (Local Hero)
I read the old post and it looks very interesting. I will have to find one of those Toyota boxes and engineer something.
Note to self...buy Manual steering link and Idler arm, find box and get to fabbin'
(once I return to the states of course)
I read the old post and it looks very interesting. I will have to find one of those Toyota boxes and engineer something.
Note to self...buy Manual steering link and Idler arm, find box and get to fabbin'
(once I return to the states of course)
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