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looks like an 1850 holley carb. w/ manual choke. doesn't have the ford trans hookup on it, that's why the kickdown from the fmx is not on it. looks like he was trying to adapt lp gas to it. I was curious about all the switches on the console.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Well, got one of the switches working so far, the air compressor for air shocks is working now :)

Still trying to figure out what the rest does...
I asked the previous owner about it and he said one of them should control the interior lights
 

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I think you will be happier with a vacuum advance setup for a street driven car. You might want to get it all running first then conver it to vac advance to be sure that dizzy is in good shape
 

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Discussion Starter #45
I'll check that out asap when i can, will let you guys now what numbers i come up with on full mechanical and with vacuum hooked up.

Another question :)

This is what's called a vacuum modulator or throttle valve, am I correct?



I would like to replace it since it might improve my somewhat unsmooth shifting.
But i can't seem to find any for an FMX transmission, or is it the same for a c4 for example?

Color on the ring is blue btw, read somewhere that the color matters.
 

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This is what's called a vacuum modulator valve, am I correct? But i can't seem to find any for an FMX transmission, or is it the same for a c4 for example?
Yes, that is the correct name. I cannot say if it the same for a C4 though.

Randy Goodling
CCOA #95
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Fixed the rattle I was getting annoyed with on the door today, found out the glass wasn't glued on anymore, so I re-glued it according to a great helpfull video from WCCC :)

 

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The glues we have now are way better than the originals. Should be good to go now!
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Finally weekend, so can make some progress again :)

Installed the glass today, took me about an hour trying to allign it properly, happy for now but will try and get it a little better when i'm doing the finishing touches.


Also started on the driver's side rear wheelarch, 2 spots to weld in the front, took me about 2 hours work to do half an arch lol







Also checked the timing for the first time (since i just bought a timing light :) )

It had an initial timing of 7° BTC, i changed that to 11° and the idle increased by 200 rpm, so i'm quite happy with that.

Also tried to check total advance, but at around 2000 rpm it started to develop a missfire so i coudn't measure any higher, but at 2000 rpm i had 28° mechanical advance.

Then hooked up the vacuum on it and got 26° initial, but as soon as i revved it, the misfire happend (sooner).

Also, glad i put some cardboard behind the exhaust, otherwise my uncle wouldn't be happy if that got on his harley lol



As you can see, deff missfire on the right side of the engine.
 

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lol - it's a Harley - it wouldn't look right without oil and splatter on it anyways! Your just helping him out.....

Sounds like you have a bad plug/wire or vac leak.......but making progress
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Yeah, the car is running way to rich (as far as I could see on the spark plugs), but no need for adjusting now, since i'll be replacing plugs, leads, carb and intake. Probably gonna change all vacuum lines too just to be safe.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Started taking appart the front of the engine this weekend.



Just wondering, is this a stock fan?



If so, would it be wise to swap it out for a new one? (I've read some horror stories on flexfan parts slicing up the hood and hoses)

Balancer looks like it's still stock, the rubber ring is disintigrating, so i'll deffinatly change that one :)



Timing cover looks like it's re-usable and stock at first glance, but will thouroughly inspect it when i get it off the car.




Waterpump seems OK, but i will swap it out anyway since i don't know how many miles are on that thing :)

 

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Just wondering, is this a stock fan? If so, would it be wise to swap it out for a new one? (I've read some horror stories on flexfan parts slicing up the hood and hoses)

Timing cover looks like it's re-usable and stock at first glance, but will thouroughly inspect it when i get it off the car. /QUOTE]

The fan might be factory. Look on the blades to see if you can find a part number. If you do post the number and we can tell you if it is the correct fan for your car. Usually the fans that came apart were the aftermarket ones. Just to be safe look over the condition of each blade before reusing it. Look for stress cracks or other damage.

The side of the timing cover that is against the engine is normally the side that gets damaged. The antifreeze going through it eats away at the aluminum. You will not know how good, or bad, it is until you remove it.

Randy Goodling
CCOA #95
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Oh and another question, on the first pic of my last post you can see the bolt holes of the dipstick and engineblock don't line up, there is about 2" of distance between them, can't possible connect them, nor can i move the bolthole on the dipstick since it seems to be welded on?

This makes me believe the dipstick was shortened at some point in his life because i broke off?
So would make sense to put on a new one since this one would lead to a wrong reading of the oil lvl?
 

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It's possible that the dipstick was shortened at some point in the past. It's also possible that the mounting bracket broke off and was rewelded back on at the wrong location. Or it might not even be the correct dipstick for the engine. If it is a factory Ford part you should be able to find a part number on the dipstick. That number will tell us what engine the dipstick is from.

Randy Goodling
CCOA #95
 

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Just wondering, is this a stock fan? If so, would it be wise to swap it out for a new one? (I've read some horror stories on flexfan parts slicing up the hood and hoses)

Timing cover looks like it's re-usable and stock at first glance, but will thouroughly inspect it when i get it off the car. /QUOTE]

The fan might be factory. Look on the blades to see if you can find a part number. If you do post the number and we can tell you if it is the correct fan for your car. Usually the fans that came apart were the aftermarket ones. Just to be safe look over the condition of each blade before reusing it. Look for stress cracks or other damage.

The side of the timing cover that is against the engine is normally the side that gets damaged. The antifreeze going through it eats away at the aluminum. You will not know how good, or bad, it is until you remove it.

Randy Goodling
CCOA #95
Just to add a point about fans, there were some OEM exploding flex fans, I understand this may have given rise to the "CAUTION FAN" stickers. Also, there was a recall IIRC. Not sure if your year/engine/fan falls into this category or not though.
 

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Oh and another question, on the first pic of my last post you can see the bolt holes of the dipstick and engineblock don't line up, there is about 2" of distance between them, can't possible connect them, nor can i move the bolthole on the dipstick since it seems to be welded on?

This makes me believe the dipstick was shortened at some point in his life because i broke off?
So would make sense to put on a new one since this one would lead to a wrong reading of the oil lvl?
289/302 dipstick tube on a 351w
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Removed the oil today, not so great news, since it must have been reading wrong on the SHORT dipstick. I found it strange when i removed the bolt the oil just gently poured out, because there was almost none in it...



When it was fully drained i had only 1,2 liters of pitchblack oil (wich shows again that the previous owner kinda neglected to take care of the car). Luckely no metal particles in there, so that's good.

Hope the engine did not suffer too much from the low oil level in it's life, because i think the dipstick was in there for a very long time, looking at the 2 colors of paint on it.

Also the partnumber on the fan is "5716 32", dunno if anyone can tell by this number if it's stock? No signs of cracks though.


And i got myself a mig/mag welder today, yay! Will be a while before I start welding on the car though, gonna practice a bit first since it has been a while since i took welding classes and I have never welded on a car before, so that should be interesting :)

 

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The number on your fan is not a Ford style number. A correct Ford number would be something like C9AE-8600-A. I don't know that this number is the correct number for your car, only that it is the correct style number as used by Ford.

Randy Goodling
CCOA #95
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Little update, been on holiday last week, so no updates then :)

Got the bolt loose from the harmonic balancer with some good old fashion elbow grease.



Don't have a damper puller yet, so can't go any further there (too bad :( ).

Got another question though, about the 3-point seatbelt system that should have been in there. Can you guys spot on any of these foto's where the top of the seatbelt should've been mounted (i cleared the headliner a bit)?

1


2


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5



Thx in advance!
 
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