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I used a roller bearing, and the trans slipped in easy enough, but I didn't indicate it and it held enough pressure on the input shaft to start causing trouble. I also have the T5Z, by the way. I've always done simple clutch replacements and the thought that you'd need to check the runout when installing a different trans/bellhousing never even occurred to me. It was a silly oversight.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
On my way home today I stopped at Harbor Freight and bought a Magnetic base and a digital indicator. When I got home the rest of the parts were here. I hope I have it all now. I got Ginger down of the lift and drove her for the last time with the old automatic. Went to the local pressure washer and cleaned her up on the underside some more.
Came home and put her back up on the lift.
I spent a little time getting things ready for pulling her apart in the morning.
I'll have pictures tomorrow evening.
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
I had quite the day today. Slept in to about 6:00 am. Went down tot he shop and started on this little project.
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This is how it looks underneath
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I plan to change the exhaust from the manifolds to the mufflers so I hacked it out with the sawsall.
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I got all the work done underneath and lowered her down and started under the hood.
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Getting close...DSC_0214
A lot of parts came off, You don't have to remove all the parts like I did. But as I plan to open up the engine they would have come off any way.
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It's out and ready to take apart.
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An empty engine bay, I will be spending some time tomorrow cleaning this up anddo some detailing.
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I got the engine and transmission apart. I was going to put the engine on the stand, but I forgot to get some bolts. I'll have to go get them in the morning.
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I think I will have some problems with the old MAW syndrome(may as well). But I want her back on the road by the end of June. After all the power train is back in I will have to have a drive shaft made and then some better gears. This Cougar is a factory trac-loc car. I think I'll have my extra 9" center built up with better gearing and a new trac-loc of some sore and put this one in the convertible.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
This project can be done with out removing the engine. But as I want to seal up my engine, it seamed to me that this was a good way to go. I found some interesting things, like the doughnuts that seal the exhaust manifolds to the head pipes are not the same, 1 was a 2 1/4" the other was a 2" This is the first time I have had the exhaust off the car. I have extras. I also found that both the engine and transmission are VIN stamped for this car. I will be putting the old FMX away for prosperity. The next owner may want it.
 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
I spent all day working on the engine. I'm not to the part I wanted to do. I got the engine on to the stand about 11:00 am
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Here is a Must fix. It was the only one bad. I never has any problems loosing coolant. I had extras here.
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I pulled of the timing cover and oil pan.
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I found a surprise I don't like. Knelled pistons...WTF? Before I started taking parts of it I used my bore scope to look in the cylinders. I didn't see any marks on the top of the pistons.
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The Oil pan took a bunch of work to get it ready for paint. But it looks good now.
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The old timing chain was loos, so I dug up this one I had hanging around. It was a new set I picked up in a parts deal. Nice to have some items hanging around.
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I got the bottom and front back sealed up.
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Notice the new soft plug.
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I got her flipped back right side up. I hope to finish the "Krylon Rebuild' tomorrow. That will be about all I'll have time for. I am planning to run in to Everett tomorrow =morning to take pictures at the Curze to Colby car show.
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I will be posting a new thread with pictures from the show and if I do get anything done on this I'll post more. Have fun tomorrow and be sure to give respect to our Military personal who have passed to give us the freedoms we enjoy..
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Today the only thing I got done was removing the console and shifter. I spent a good 4 1/2 hours at the car show. Pics later.
This is now,
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This is before(older picture)
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I put the wood shifter handle in my Convertible. Incidental, As I've been getting flack about the hard top being named Ginger, I have now named the convertible Mary Ann.(my brother put me over the edge on this one) There will be no Mrs Howell or Skipper in my shop.
 
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I liked Mary Ann a bit better anyway Neal! LOL Looks like good progress......jealous that you have a a lift! I'd kill for one right now......waiting for my trans parts to show up for the pony :>( Blew out the trans in my truck last week too <sigh>
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
This evening I jumped in on the peddles. I am using a reproducton clutch peddle from Modern Driveline. It is a little

defferent from the factory one, but a direct replacement. This w=is what I started with.



I removed th eold trim and pad. I used the new pad to mark the peddle where to cut. If you look closely you can see the line.



I put down some drop cloths and an old floor mat to catch the shavings. after cutting I filed the cut to clean the sharp
edges up and rounded the top and bottom corners. I'm now at the point of no return...


I them wire brushed the surface rust and painted it with Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator.


Next was on to the clutch peddle... Here you see the peddle on the left and the cable adapter to the right.


The cable adapter needs to catch the top of the peddle, The stock spring mount prevents this so it has to be trimmed of. Note the mark ups on this picture.


The Blue tape marks where to trim.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/tDqpyP]

After trimming, I then painted it to prevent rusting.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/tDqcUg]

The finished product bolted together. It has to come apart to bolt the peddle in to the car.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/sGu3Wa]


I would recomend removing the drivers seat to install this, I didn't and was able to get it done. But it was mostly by Braille. You need to use new bushings or convert to roller bearings. Make sure you tighten down the hanger bolt or the peddle will be sloppy. Then bolt the adapter to the peddle. Install your peddle pads and trim rings. You will have something like this.


Next I'll be installing the cable. For that I'll have to pull off the master cylinder and booster. I'll be detailing them before they go back on. So it may be a couple days before the next update.
 
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Nice write up and details Neal.....
 

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
So I have been working away on this swap. Today I got the bellhouse on the engine and checked my run out. I got 0.003. Under the required 0.005. So I think it is good. The problem I have now is this,

This is all the further the yoke will slide in to the tail housing. It hits something solid at about 1.40 inch in. When I look in, it looks like solid metal ring like the end of a bushing. But the same Diameter as the out put shaft, no room for the yoke to slide in. I can't see 1.40 inch being what is needed for the yoke to slip in and out.

I have a lot of pictures and story to go with them. I hope to get them up later this week. I have the clutch cable installed and the T-5 bolted to the engine.
 

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I would think you should have about 3" or so going in there?....hmmmm The splines seem to match up OK though? Wonder what the "bushing" is your seeing....? There shouldn't be anything up until the extension housing I would expect - unless there is something where the shifter sits in there perhaps? IDK? odd....
 

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Neal, is the yolk that you're having problems with the one from the FMX? If it is, wouldn't you need one for a manual instead? John
 

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Discussion Starter #38 (Edited)
Neal, is the yolk that you're having problems with the one from the FMX? If it is, wouldn't you need one for a manual instead? John
John, I do know this and the yoke came with the kit. It is a 28 spline same count as a C-4 or top loader. Not sure about the length yet. This is how it compares to the one from the FMX.



Here you see the grease line where it stops going in,



If you look in to the tail shaft here you can see the obstruction.



If any one has thoughts or ideas I would appreciate hearing them. I'm not moving on until I have this taken care of.
I think I'm going to make some phone calls, but as I had to play ditch digger this evening for a County mandated Septic inspection happening tomorrow and needing to install covers so I don't need to do this tomorrow it will be later this week.
I hope to have some time to document more of this work in the mean time. I have a lot of pictures to up load still.
 

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Sure as heck looks like a bushing......huh? Might call the Modern Driveline fella's and ask the techs there if it's possible somebody could have driven one back to far? I am not familiar enough with that trans to know how the tail housing is designed. Might be different variations of it out there? IDK - gotta think there should be a lot more travel room than that?
 
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