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Discussion Starter #1
I've searched old strings and haven't found the answer to this: Will a 65 amp alternator fix the slow or no blinkers with the headlights and heater on? During the daytime the blinkers work perfect, the extra draw at night kills them at idle.
I've got a 70 eliminator and just rebuilt the stock 42 amp. I don't want to change the alt. because it's the correct finish and the correct date. I can get it reworked for about $80 to a 65 amp. I think anything over 65 amp is pushing it on 30 year old factory gage wires, so please, no 90 or 140 amp soloutions.
I've checked all the bulbs and grounds, they're all good. The belt is tight. Anyone using a 65 amp? Thanks.
 

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I've not done that, but I have heard mention of it before as a fix. But, I agree that you shouldn't go beyond 65 amps.
 

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I think I'm in the same boat. I have a 68 with the 60 amp, but with the MSD I don't have enough juice at Idle with the headlights on to flash the blinkers more than a few times. I am thinking of an overdrive pulley to give it more output at idle as it's fine so long as the engine is revving just a little bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
KirKm does the MSD use that much more to make a difference? I would think with points or pertronix a 65 amp should do, but maybe not? Would it be an overdrive pully (larger)? I think you would want a smaller pulley to make the alt. spin faster. Is smaller underdrive? Which way is which??? That would be a cheap and easy fix. May not even need a new belt
 

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pullies

underdrive pullies are larger. They make accessories turn slower giving you a little more horsepower due to less drag. Overdrive pullies are smaller and make them spin faster. This will not increase the max output of my alternator, but it will turn faster while idling stopped in drive, thus giving more power there. The car does fine if I rev it slightly. Even dropping it in to neutral while I'm stopped will cure the problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
nobody else??

I can't believe there is only one person who has tried a 60/65 amp alternator! Not everyone is going to the 100 or more amp alternators and I know this is a common problem.
 

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Had this problem

I fought this for years and replaced everything including the 65A alt. I kept thinking it was the electrical *source*. One call to Vic Yarberry and he said "it's the can".

One can later: everything works with or without lights.

You have to get the correct flasher can. I started by buying an electronic flasher replacement for $6.95 and then modifying the timer circuit inside. Worked great. But when I had the chance to buy a "customized" can from the local Shelby guy here (Frank Reynolds) that can worked perfectly.

Enjoy.
 

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I already have the electronic unit.....still acts up. Do you mean the stuff in the trunk, or the underdash stuff.
 

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Re: pullies

kirkm76 said:
underdrive pullies are larger. They make accessories turn slower giving you a little more horsepower due to less drag. Overdrive pullies are smaller and make them spin faster. This will not increase the max output of my alternator, but it will turn faster while idling stopped in drive, thus giving more power there. The car does fine if I rev it slightly. Even dropping it in to neutral while I'm stopped will cure the problems.
Sorry a larger pulley is needed on the alt to drive it faster at the same eng rpm. In general a underdrive crank pulley is smaller. Stop and think about it.

dfwcatsclub maybe absoluty correct about the can, but I still think the 65 amp upgrade is a good investment. I had a 65 on mine and had no troubles at all, except the fact that the headlights would dim a little at idle but the blinkers still worked fine. mm
 

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kirkm76 said:
I already have the electronic unit.....still acts up. Do you mean the stuff in the trunk, or the underdash stuff.
The can under the dash -- specifically the "green" can if you're Jan 1,1970 and further. The diff between the "red" and "green" can has to do with the extra current load that occurred when Ford was mandated to increase taillight brightness by the DOT. This went into effect Jan 1970.

That said, a standard can from your local autoparts store won't work. It has to be calibrated properly for the correct delay.

The box in the trunk, if the all electronic replacement, is calibrated as if the relays are there. It's made by Vic Yarberry and resold.
Check out his troubleshooting section: http://www.thuntek.net/cougars_unlimited/
 

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One thing that you may want to check, is your low voltage Diode/ or regulater. Rev the car up and see if the sequencer works at night under load. If it does you may want to try this fix.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
flashers

Does someone sell the correct flasher for the blinkers? There should be 2 flashers, one for the blinkers and one for the emergency flashers, right? Are the sockets different so I can tell which one is which?
 

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your turn signal flasher can is on the right side of interior and emergency flasher on the left, at least in 1970 cougar. The sokets are the same. They sell for about $25.00 from Cascade Classics. It is definitely a high priced unit for what it is. If anybody knows where a lower cost flasher can is let me know as I need one too. the green sequencer can is part #D0WY-13350C.
 

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Well, I did a little troubleshooting, and I think the simpliest of tests has given me my answer. See, I can sit there in drive with the headlights on, the interior lights on, the radio, the blower, and...well, you get the idea, anything electrical on and the emergency flashers will flash normally all day long. So I am thinking the flasher (can). Only mine is a 68, so the "can" seems to be a rectangular deal right next to the fuse block. Do you think a new one is in order? Should I mess with an electronic replacement? If so, how do I modify it to work. Where can I get a replacement flasher in the first place.
 

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Huh?

I think the answer lies in the previous posts.

Vic Yarberry sells the NOS flasher cans
Vic sells electronic flasher cans
Others sell electronic replacement cans

You can buy an electronic from a parts store and open it and change one resistor and be happy.
 
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