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Discussion Starter #1
So, it's been awhile since I've posted. Due to some free time, I've been able to start hammering out issues that I may have mentioned in previous posts.

Here's what I've done so far:

Replaced the brake booster.

Replaced the intake manifold gaskets.

Replaced the exhaust pipe gaskets. (Apparently, I've been poisoning myself.)

Replaced the spark plugs and wires.

Carb adjustments, timing adjustments.


Things have been running super smooth. However..

Yesterday, I could feel water boiling in the upper radiator hose. I removed and tested the thermostat. It was fine, but I didn't drop it back in. The problem was still happening. Hot running and boiling water.

I felt the next logical step was to replace the water pump.

So, that's what I did. The situation hasn't really changed at all. I'm overlooking something. But what?

Could it be the head gaskets? Perhaps it's time for a serious flush? I did a not so serious one when the old pump was still in there. Clogs, bad adjustments, something.

I am STUMPED.


EDIT: '69 std, 351w
 

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How hot is hot? Do you have an actual guage reading, or are you using theleft-right-center, stock 40 year old one? THe laser temp thingies are really coming down in price, you can get pin point accuracy for under 40 bucks. However, if it is your stock, O.E radiator, it's probably time for a good flush or replacement.
 

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I felt the next logical step was to replace the water pump.

So, that's what I did. The situation hasn't really changed at all.
I mean this in the nicest way possible, because the next line just sounds really kind of snarky, but:
The next logical step is to start diagnosing the problem and stop throwing parts at it hoping that you'll fix it by chance.

Read the plugs, double check the timing, check out the coolant. Diagnose it. Think your way through it and you'll fix it.
 

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Maybe you put the gaskets on wrong or wrong ones and are blocking the water jackets? Whats the temp and did it run hot before? I would put a new thermostat back in running it with out one doesn't give the water a chance to cool in the radiator to free flowing.
 

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I'm not sure I understand what makes you think it's overheating though? "boiling" in the upper hose? You mean it's gurgling a bit? It should get fairly warm and and stay firm (not squishy) when the pressure reaches 15-16 lbs. If it's soft and hot you are not holding pressure somewhere. Another simple yet overlooked thing is that you antifreeze may be over/undermixed. If your stat is in good shape and facing the correct direction - you should be able to tell if it's holding pressure at the upper rad hose - even after you shut it off for ahwile it should remain firm. You may want to get a new rad cap while your at it....just to be sure it's good. Don't get one with the release lever though.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Woodsnake, it's the stock gauge. Yeah, I know. There's no reading because I probably fried sensor. It wouldn't be much of a shock if the radiator was the stock one.

Shaman, I'm gonna have to snap a picture of the old pump. I popped it open and saw that it was a real mess in there.

Ron, the gasket is correct and in the right spot. I have a couple of 180 thermostats that I could drop back in. I didn't think much of leaving it out at this point as I live in a balls hot state.

Badcat, what makes me think it's overheating is that the "boiling" I can feel is rapid. Much like what I would expect from a pot of boiling water. Additionally, when the boiling starts (which doesn't take long), the car struggles to stay running. My cap is in great shape. I didn't replace it myself, but it seems like the previous owner did not too long ago. I'm going to further inspect that hose firmness.

I'm gonna give it another good flush. It wouldn't shock me if there was still something bad in there.

..and sorry if it looks like my posts ramble on. I'm very wiped out.


I'll keep you all posted as I assess the situation. :)
 

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Can you see good flow with the cap off? I had an over heating problem last year a buddy of mine keep saying it was the radiator but he is wrong about every thing most times lol. I put a new alum one in and fix the problem runs cool as could be I did try flushing it first but didnt help.

Are you driving it and its over heating or just setting at idle?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I can see it flowing with the cap off.

This happens when I'm on the move, when I'm stopped. I just got done with another flush. Everything pissed out clean. No blockage or anything like that.

It couldn't make matters worse if I dropped the thermostat back in, huh?

I wouldn't be shocked if I had to drop in a new radiator, but I gotta make due for now. I'm about broke.
 

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Yes, replace the thermostat. Without one, coolant can actually flow too fast, not spending sufficient time in the radiator to shed heat properly.

What kind of fan are you using? Is the fan shroud in place? Have you checked your lower radiator hose to make sure its not collapsing? Its supposed to have a spring in it to keep that from happening, but they're often missing.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The fan may or may not be stock. It's not electrical, has the clutch, etc. <br><br>There is no fan shroud in this car. That's the way I got it. It's fun for the fingers. :p<br><br>The lower hose is gravy. I checked a million times to make sure it wasn't collapsing. <br><br>One detail that I'd like to point out is that there's nothing unusual coming from my exhaust (colored smokes). Hope that narrows it down.<br><br>
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I had a couple of mechanics give everything a once over. They're convinced that it's the radiator. Perhaps there's something blocked.

Looks like I'm ripping that sucker apart.
 

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Mine ran hot (351 4v, auto w/air) Timing was one issue, no fan shroud was the other. I also had multiple vacuum leaks...took it one problem at a time and everything is good now. Just saying....
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Those vacuum leaks really mess things up. I remember when I couldn't stop the car without hitting the gas. Totally worth the trouble to fix it. The timing probably needs to be done by a pro. That might help the situation.

I found a place that'll rip the radiator apart and repair it for $85. I think that sounds better than getting a new one for $200, or taking a chance getting one at the scrap yard.

I'm still floating the idea of disassembling it myself.
 

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One thing you have to watch out for is whether your SBF water pump (221/260/289/302/351W) has been incorrectly replaced with a reverse-rotation pump from a serpentine-belt 5.0L/5.8L (or for that matter if you put a serpentine-belt pulley system on a 'straight' water pump). You also have to be careful as to which waterpump gaskets you use! Use thew wrong parts and you'll have a problem!!!
 

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Check timing, check that it's holding pressure, look at plugs, check flow direction, post back, we will look at what that tells us....picture on the plugs if you can...
 

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One thing you have to watch out for is whether your SBF water pump (221/260/289/302/351W) has been incorrectly replaced with a reverse-rotation pump from a serpentine-belt 5.0L/5.8L (or for that matter if you put a serpentine-belt pulley system on a 'straight' water pump). You also have to be careful as to which waterpump gaskets you use! Use the wrong parts and you'll have a problem!!!
I'm betting on Cougrrcj with this one. From what I understand, it seems to be overheating just sitting at idle, and also on the road. To me, that's a real significant symptom. A picture of your old water pump, along with the part number of the replacement, would be really helpful in possibly diagnosing your problem. If you didn't have A/C, you could just place your hand in various areas on the front of the radiator to check for cool spots, which would indicate blockage.
 

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Plus a "real" number for a temperature is a big help. But I bought a "laser" (think Austin Powers) just for that purpose....
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Good morning.. err.. afternoon.

So, I drove about 30 miles last night. I spent most of the drive going 40-45mph. It isn't that bad as long as I have some speed, but if I slow down or stop, that's when it gets bad. It does bad in neighborhood driving, which was why I though this was happening all of the time.

Desertdave, I do have AC, but I never use it. Never. There are cold spots on the radiator. That's what prompted a couple of mechanics to blame the radiator.

Part number on the water pump is PH355SCT.

Knowing the actual temp would be awesome, huh? I'll try to find someone that'll check it out if the weather allows.

As far as the pressure goes, the upper hose stays firm until the thermostat opens. That's when I can squeeze it. I can't pinch it shut or anything, but it is squeezable.

Also, forgive me for sounding dim, but which plugs am I looking at here? Freeze plugs? Spark plugs?

Pictures a plenty when the sky clears up.
 

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Spark plugs - pull a few out and see what color they are. Here's what to look for: http://www.hioutput.com/tech/plug.html

Post the brand/part number if you would. We can see what heat range it is....
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The plugs are Autolite 45. .035 gap. I haven't inspected them yet.

I decided to pull out the radiator and flush it out a few times. Blasted away a whole bunch of garbage. Chunks of **** were clogging things up. I just kept flushing it and getting it with the shop vac until there wasn't any thing else moving around. I did this for about 4 hours just to be really sure.

Also, I found some disposable towelette thing stuck to it. :bloated: That probably didn't help.

I'll share my findings when I put it back together tomorrow.
 
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