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Discussion Starter #1
Hi. I'm hoping someone can help me out with a measurement for between the tops of the shock towers. I've been replacing front suspension (uppers, lowers, springs, perch), and have just got one side back on the ground. Some severe camber problems (too much). There is still some adjustment in the LCA inner bolt, but doubt it will correct enough. This explains the 2 shims that were there before! So my first thought is the big block has taken its toll on the shock towers over the years but would like to do a simple and easy check by measuring how far apart they should be.
From there, I'll be asking for advice on options. Could shim again but concerned there's not enough thread on the UCA bolts to fit the shims. Could I put an adjustable monte carlo style brace between the towers and 'adjust' it apart slowly? Or is there a better 'shade tree' method I can use? All advice appreciated.
Stephen
 

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Should be about 33 1/2 inches center to center on the shock mounts....whatever that converts to down under? ;>0
 

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You can try jacking up the car using the cross brace under the engine, and let the shock towers 'relax.' This is what many people do to get the one-piece shock tower brace installed. Same concept should work with a monte carlo bar.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the measurement, I'll get the measuring tape out tonight after work and compare. Mr Eos, great idea, just need to find the right brace now to fit around the engine/aircon etc. I really like the look of this one, although not crazy about the idea of drilling holes through the firewall... http://www.rrs-online.com/strutbrace.php


 

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RRS sure makes some nice stuff. Been eyeballing their steering rack setup for a couple months now. They are based in Sydney,...are they not? I want to go to their shop and play!
 

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you can buy a 40 dollar 1 piece export brace place the 4 bolts down through the holes at the cowl and just start a couple of threads on the nuts. Take the shock tower caps off and see how far out it is. If it is sagged you can use a hand pump hydraulic porta power to move them out until the carriage bolts line up with the export brace holes. They move like swiss cheese. Takes about 20 minutes to stand them up true. I would work from the top down as if they are sagged you are never going to get there. Lots of big block towers have moved inward and this is what I do with them.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks all. I measured between tower caps tonight - roughly 30" so perhaps half an inch out which is pretty significant in terms of alignment. Yes RRS are in Sydney on the northern beaches, will have to plan a visit and check their stuff out. I almost pulled the trigger a while back on their rack + pinion setup but still not confident it will fit under a big block (not that much clearance to sump apparently). It may fit, once I get the front end back together and transmission back in I might take the car over to see what they think.
Plan A at this point I think is an export brace and I'm going to see if I can get just the monte carlo portion of RRS brace without the firewall bracing.
Cheers
Stephen
 

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Monte bar for the win. stiffens up suspension for even light cornering. You think suspension/shock tower sag is bad standing still, imagine that old metal twisting as your car literally "rolls" through the corners.. Brutal. Then again if you aren't driving like an animal it's probably much less noticeable..

I , however, enjoy indulging my more primal urges behind the wheel :) Never forget my buddy testing out the global West 1G suspension kit in his 67 XR7 GT.. 90degree corner at 90 miles an hour with zeroslipping. I did however leave a nasty faceplant mark on the window..
 

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Nice looking stuff on that RSS components!! Let us know how much fits US stuff when you go checking into it...don't see anything but Mustang listed? Measurements from those would be awesome!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just an update for those interested in this thread - ordered an export brace from Don and as suggested above the towers have sagged considerably. Probably in the region of half an inch each side. From here I'll wait till I have the car rolling and back on solid ground (I have a poor man's hoist in my garage - a mechanics pit), then try the jacking under the cross brace and see if it relaxes. Unfortunately don't have a porta power (yet)...
 

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I think "yet" is the key there! You may be able to finagle something homemade to get the job done. If you car is an early year one, it may not have the extra beef around the towers and could be cracked - be sure to check that is not the case......
 
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