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Discussion Starter #1
So I was looking at options for front suspensions and Heidts, TCI and the others are a big chunk of change at the moment so I am looking at redoing the original suspension for now.

Can someone please explain to me what is needed and for a shelby drop besides the 620 springs?

Cheers.
 

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You don't need different springs. You can use your stock springs. You just need to drill 4 holes in your shock towers one inch below your current holes. You can buy fancy laser cut templates from several sources. Here's a template you can print out.

 

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You don't need different springs. You can use your stock springs. You just need to drill 4 holes in your shock towers one inch below your current holes. You can buy fancy laser cut templates from several sources. Here's a template you can print out.
Is this all that is needed, apart from an alignment for a Shelby drop?
 

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The "Shelby drop" is the new holes, that is all. Anything else is just popular additional stuff people like to do.
 

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I was going to do the drop on my '68. BTW, Shelby didn't come up with the idea. It was originated by an engineer at Ford but never implemented in production. Shelby got wind of it and implemented, but only on the race cars, not the street cars. It works great on '65-'66 Mustangs. Not so good on the '67-'68. You may notice that the original holes on the '67-'68 fall well within a structural doubler on the shock tower, they go through two layers of metal. When I laid out the holes on my '68 they were uncomfortably close to the edge of the doubler. I called Tony Branda for advice and was told by Tony himself that Shelby never did the mod after '66.

Lay out the locations, look at where they land, and think hard about whether you really want to do the drop. There are other ways to improve the geometry, albeit more expensive. You could go with fabricated upper control arms that use the existing holes.
 

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The name of that Ford engineer was Klaus Arning. The Shelby drop is also called the Arning drop by purists and UCA drops by people that don't like to get into fights.

rjf is right. The 1" drop holes fall right on the edge of the inner layer of the shock tower. When I installed my control arms and torqued them down, the bolts canted outward. I took a pair of washers and cut them to take up the space so the bolts were parallel when torqued down.

As for it's usefulness, I think it improved my handling, but I can't say to what degree since I did a bunch of things at the same time. The UCA drop is required when installing any aftermarket upper control arm (except the TCP ones that have it incorporated into the shaft). Also, the Trans am Mustangs had 1.2" drops, which means Bud Moore thought it did something.
 

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Also, on the 65-66 Mustangs, the camber and caster is set with shims. The UCA drop on 66 mustangs was especially beneficial because the 1/8" set back increased the caster by quite a bit. Because '67 and up Mustangs/Cougars use the strut rods to adjust the caster, the 1/8" step back was not required.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the template and the advice on checking the mount locations for my 67. Do you think that on a 67 just the drop springs and maybe cutting a coil would be enough, and better, instead of the Selby drop because of the issue with the new holes in the shock tower?
 

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It depends on what you like and don't like about your current setup. Do you have understeer or oversteer problems? What do you want to do with it; Canyon carving, road racing, drag strip or just cruising? Do you want to change the stance?
 

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...When I laid out the holes on my '68 they were uncomfortably close to the edge of the doubler. I called Tony Branda for advice and was told by Tony himself that Shelby never did the mod after '66.

Lay out the locations, look at where they land, and think hard about whether you really want to do the drop...
I noticed the same thing, but it did not stop me. I just welded up where the nuts/lockwasher was going to run off the reinforcement (not to be confused with the thick bracing that some people call "big block" shock towers) and then ground the welds down even with the reinforcement. Bam! Extended reinforcement.

The Shelby drop is a benefit to all Cougars 67-70
 

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Also, on the 65-66 Mustangs, the camber and caster is set with shims. The UCA drop on 66 mustangs was especially beneficial because the 1/8" set back increased the caster by quite a bit. Because '67 and up Mustangs/Cougars use the strut rods to adjust the caster, the 1/8" step back was not required.
Caster has nothing to do with the geometry change that the drop provides. I do agree that the set back does changes caster a bit, which makes tracking better, so I see no harm in it. Also, you do not have to step the holes back when you do the drop if it causes problems or you are worried about changing caster (which as I mentioned I do not see why this would be an issue).
 

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Caster has nothing to do with the geometry change that the drop provides. I do agree that the set back does changes caster a bit, which makes tracking better, so I see no harm in it. Also, you do not have to step the holes back when you do the drop if it causes problems or you are worried about changing caster (which as I mentioned I do not see why this would be an issue).
I was not talking about the drop. I was explaining why the 65-66 had the 1/8" step back and 67-70 did not. I guess I didn't explain it very well. I am a big fan of lot of positive caster. Viva la caster! I have my strut rods maxed out at +2.5 degrees. I was thinking about asking my alignment guy to shim it to get it to +3.0, but decided against it.
 

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Bud Moore did think it did something. the drop is a good addition. However, as you can see from the above conversation, you have to have an alignment tech (or yourself) that knows how to do things the old timey way instead of using a computer for everything. That alone can be the hardest part.

I have a buddy who used to chassis setup on cup cars and dirt trackers, so I'm lucky in that respect. Not everyone can live near him or guys like Bob and Art.
 

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The upper control arm relocation was only done on 65 Shelbys and 252 66's
The modification increases camber gain in suspension compression, keeps the tire flat with the track/road surface in cornering. Not to lower the front end.
 

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I was not talking about the drop. I was explaining why the 65-66 had the 1/8" step back and 67-70 did not. I guess I didn't explain it very well. I am a big fan of lot of positive caster. Viva la caster! I have my strut rods maxed out at +2.5 degrees. I was thinking about asking my alignment guy to shim it to get it to +3.0, but decided against it.
LOL, okay Adam. I put two 1/8" shims behind the front bolt of my UCA's to get more caster when my large front tire size would not allow me to pull the LCA's as forward as I would like.
 

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LOL, okay Adam. I put two 1/8" shims behind the front bolt of my UCA's to get more caster when my large front tire size would not allow me to pull the LCA's as forward as I would like.
You can also knock the bolts out of the cross shafts, turn them half a round for more (or less) +caster.
 

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When i did that to my car it only lowered it 3/4 of an inch. Ended up cutting 3/4 of a coil out spring to get it where i liked. BTW i think it helped with the cornering a little bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I appreciate you all pitching in your knowledge and experience as it really gives me something to ponder on. This is mainly gonna be a street/touring car but having something that feels like its on rail would be nice. I just was curious about the drop filling in the wheel wells a little, nothing drastic as I have 18x8 with 235/40/R18 tires on the front.

I'd like them to fill the wheel wells like this one at the very most.



or like my last 67


 
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