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Discussion Starter #1
OK,
Ashe's eliminators roof is very rusty, and there is a pinhole about 1/2 inch above the windshield on the drivers side.

It is easily sanded except for behind the re-enforcement bars.

Is it safe to use por 15 and call it done, or does this call for some drastic measures?

I don't want to do this again in 5 years..help.
 

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The main thing to do is to make sure the effected area cannot get moisture or oxygen to it. Rust will not grow if these two things are not present. Is there a way to spray or using a detail brush to get behind the interior roof bow and seal the rust from the inside. Being Georgia moisture is EVERYWHERE and sealing as thoroughly as possible, while the car is stripped, will be important. Depending on build budget,...have you looked into chem. dipping and E-coating. Then there's http://www.waxoyl-usa.com/products/corrosion-prevention
 

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My bodyman cut the roof bow out, cleaned everything on the roof and the top of the bow ... was REAL UGLY!! ... sealed both with POR15, and then welded it back in. Because of what he found there, I'm sure the roof would have rusted there again in a few years.
 

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Yeah that's kind of what I was thinking I might have to do, I don't know if I can get behind the one closest to the windshield with POR..
 

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Jeff, why not drill some holes and spray in some Eastwood rust encapsalator (SP) and the top coat it with paint. Never will be seen once the headliner is installed.
 

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What method did you use to unlead the seams? -- Grinding wouldn't be a good idea, can you heat it up enough to not warp it with a torch though...that's what I'd be afraid of
 

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just did the skin replace on 67 if you get a parts car u can drill through the drip rails. small hand held torch & wire brush to melt the lead out of the front pillar post & behind qtr. window wraping around to rear window opneing. spotweld cutter on the rest of spot welds. on my car i spotweld cut through top skin break driprail moldings off with pliers take a grinder and grind through top of spot welds only so you have bottom off drip rail to weld to in the holes u drilled in parts car. i started welding in the middle off front windshield worked out to edges left last couple welds loose then started in the middle of drip rails came forward then to the rear leaving last 2 or 3 weld on all sides of corners till last started in middle of rear opening worked out then did the sides in the leaded area then the last welds in courners & front & rear of driprails push/ clamp front/ back window small pony clamp with sides ground flat for drip rails a couple sheet metal screws in qtr. panel (rear leaded area) an you can push in on the front and back as u clamp down work poney clamp along as u go on drip rails, push in some on roof each time u move clamp if needed use small sqare bar or large punch to press down while u weld instead of a hundred screws & clamps . i used all metal body filler to fill in leaded seams it wont shrink as much as reg. body filler, sands easily put on in at least 3 layer bulid up sanding some on each layer. if your only dealing w/ pinholes & dont want to cut out and weld/plug again yiu can use all metal filler i put some in some large holes around window frame on a 69 it sat in the sun, rain, snow for ten years and its still in there.
 

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I'm wondering if that panel adhesive they have now is a better alternative to welding? They claim it's structurally more sound - proven in accident crashed vehicles too...? The thing I like about that is that it would alleviate any heat/warp issues and alos not rust as readily.....just a thought. Haven't actaully tried the stuff, but it sounds lke the cats ass thus far......
 

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the stuff is 3m automix 8115 there is also another brand but i dont remember it i was told they can glue 2 pieces of metal together & the metal gives before adheasive might look for video on u-tube u will have to find a place the rents/loans an aoutomix gun there not cheap. the guy i got my parts car from used this on his floorpans & qtr. panels & was pleased & u dohave the added benefit of no warp. i considered using this putting the skin on my 67 but decided the adheasive did not have enough life span to get every thing in place before it sets up plus u would have to drill all around roof to pull down w/ sheet metal screws so u dont get clamps stuck in adheasive & once its stuck thats it cant start over i preferred welding i didnt have to worry about adheasive setting up if u can weld weld it cool welds down w/ air hose as u go u can do an area at a time like i decribed earlier & do it over 2 or 3 days.
 
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