just did the skin replace on 67 if you get a parts car u can drill through the drip rails. small hand held torch & wire brush to melt the lead out of the front pillar post & behind qtr. window wraping around to rear window opneing. spotweld cutter on the rest of spot welds. on my car i spotweld cut through top skin break driprail moldings off with pliers take a grinder and grind through top of spot welds only so you have bottom off drip rail to weld to in the holes u drilled in parts car. i started welding in the middle off front windshield worked out to edges left last couple welds loose then started in the middle of drip rails came forward then to the rear leaving last 2 or 3 weld on all sides of corners till last started in middle of rear opening worked out then did the sides in the leaded area then the last welds in courners & front & rear of driprails push/ clamp front/ back window small pony clamp with sides ground flat for drip rails a couple sheet metal screws in qtr. panel (rear leaded area) an you can push in on the front and back as u clamp down work poney clamp along as u go on drip rails, push in some on roof each time u move clamp if needed use small sqare bar or large punch to press down while u weld instead of a hundred screws & clamps . i used all metal body filler to fill in leaded seams it wont shrink as much as reg. body filler, sands easily put on in at least 3 layer bulid up sanding some on each layer. if your only dealing w/ pinholes & dont want to cut out and weld/plug again yiu can use all metal filler i put some in some large holes around window frame on a 69 it sat in the sun, rain, snow for ten years and its still in there.
