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Discussion Starter #1
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-134-7104/

Do you have to machine the boss for these studs if you stay with the rail rockers? 69 W. 351.
I know i could call summit but i like to see how you all feel about some parts and what really works. Not going to race engine or get big cam just got a stud that keeps coming out and thought this would be a good up grade to valve train.
 

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I have just tapped the positive stop rail style before. The press in studs are the perfect size for a 7/16 tap. I made a tool to do it. It starts the threads straight. It has to be done systematically with this tool. You can't just pull all the studs at once. Leave one stud in on each cylinder. Use the press in stud with washers to hold the tool in place. I snug the tool to get it centered and started then I tighten it down. Then after you tap the pulled stud hole pull the other stud and use a 7/16" bolt to hold the tool. CIMG0562.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That is just what i had in mind. Is the tool you made threaded in one of the holes?
 

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Its only threaded in one hole. I used a drill press to start the threads straight in the tool. The un threaded hole I drilled 1/2" to accommodate any differences. It takes a while to do it. I think it took me 2 hours to do the last one on the car.
 

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I have my D0OE's in the parts cleaner now, all stripped down. One of the press-in studs popped up several years ago and I had to whack it in place. I want to do the boring myself as well. Do you have dimensions on the bar of steel - length, width, height, spacing between the threaded hole and the two other holes? I have a beautiful old drill press as well. It's been so long since I pulled out the studs from some 289 heads that I sadly hosed up on one of stud threading, that I had to junk them. Don't want any issues with these, and your tool looks like the perfect solution. How deep do you go down with the thread tapper? I still have that borer in my garage shelf. Thanks for the thread. Eric.
 

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I took the first stud out, and was trying to make a similar tool, but my drill press is old and I can't get it perpendicular with the base. I've checked several sites for stud removal/tap kit, but have only found Chevy stuff. Anyone have a link to such a Ford sb tool? I've also read that going to roller rockers requires guide plates, and also requires machining the stud bases, right? Maybe I just better look for some good heads on racingjunk.com.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well i made a tool like kooade did. Used it like he said and all studs are tapped perfect. BTW you can buy the tool. I still do not know for sure if i can just put on the screw in studs without machineing the stud bosses. Also staying with rail rockers so no need to use guide plates. That brings up another question. If you use guide plates wouldn't you have to change to non rail rockers, hardend pushrods and possibly valves with the shorter stems?
 

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You would have to have the stud boss' machined down the thickness of the plate....once you go down the I might as well do X path, you are usually better of to upgrade heads entirely since you would put in hardened seats/new valves/have all the machine work done/etc. These days the aftermarket heads are pretty attractive cost-wise and performance wise.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
OK I would love to have some aftermarket heads but i'm just trying to make my stock 351 head a little better and more reliable then ford did. So with that said screw in studs and removed thermactor bump seems like an nice addition to stock heads. If removing smog bump gains some HP fine but not really trying to set them up for large gains. Just thought it would make for some nice heads. So staying with rail rocker can i just screw in the (first post of this thread style studs) without machineing boss? I am afraid the wrench part will be to close to the rocker.
 

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I've just done it on my 302, and was advised to have the rocker bosses milled by 0.230". I don't know if the same specs appy to a 351.

If you're using guideplates, often the rocker will bottom out on the stud boss before you can get it adjusted properly, having them milled is probably (relatively) cheap insurance.

I know this is a Chebby, but it pretty much covers what's needed.


 
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