I'm no expert, but have you tried Loctite? :smoke:
No I haven't. I probably wont unless that is my last resort. Thanks for the quick reply.I'm no expert, but have you tried Loctite? :smoke:
+1 I had to on my re manufactured engine from pepboys. Did it and haven't had a problem since. Also make sure the studs aren't pulling out either, had that happen to the same engine.I'm no expert, but have you tried Loctite? :smoke:
Haven't checked the studs. I didn't even think of that. Thanks for the reply. I'll check the stud tomorrow. Loctite sounds like it may be the way to go.+1 I had to on my re manufactured engine from pepboys. Did it and haven't had a problem since. Also make sure the studs aren't pulling out either, had that happen to the same engine.
You said that you "Have tightened it down 6-8 times since" How are you tightening them down?I have a 69 Cougar with a 351W and for the past week I've had a rocker arm on the drivers side head come loose. I've tightened it down 6-8 times since last week and did it again about 2 hours ago only to have it come loose shortly after. I heard that the nuts on the rocker arms wear out and should be replaced. Is this true? I bought a nut for the one rocker arm but like usual one of them came loose. I don't know if it is the same one or not and wont know until tomorrow because I'm done working on it today. I need some opinions on what I could do to keep them tight so I don't have to listen to that ticking sound anymore. Any info would be appreciated.
Correct for adjustable valvetrains, incorrect for non-adjustable valvetrains.When I first tightened the nut my dad said to loosen the nut until you heard it clicking then to tighten it down until the sound stops.
This is normal and is due to bleed-down of the lifters. When adjusting adjustable valvetrain with the engine running, one has to adjust slowly to allow the lifter to bleed down. If you do it too fast, the valve does not shut all the way (until the lifter bleeds down).If I tighten the nut too much it sounds like the engine is going to stall...
If the valvetrain is non-adjustable (and I'll bet it is), this would be normal. The only way the nuts are locked is when they are torqued against the shoulder on the studs. Read on and I'll explain....so I back the nut off a little bit and it will be fine until I drive it around for 5-10 minutes then it would be loose again.
Thanks for the reply. I too had the dirty nasty oil so I wiped out the stud and the center of the rocker arm before installing the new nuts. Everything seems fine now. I replaced all the nuts but one since Riebes only had 15 nuts. Anyways I think my main problem was I didn't know what I was doing but thanks to you guys I learned some new things. I finished yesterday but haven't really driven it around but I'm sure it won't come loose again.My daily driver 1970 351W was doing the same thing on two rockers. I bought new nuts and after installing them, I could watch the nuts start backing off again until the cylinder was dead. The motor was owned by callous hands before me so I figured the nasty, dirty black oil in it when I got it was holding things together. So I put a second nut on it and 10 thousand miles later...still holding and running smooth.
Haven't actually checked, but I've never seen them in the 5/16" size that would be required. Only 3/8" and 7/16".couldnt he run a poly lock like the roller rockers come with?