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Discussion Starter #1

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Thanks for the review! It couldn't have been timed any better. I'm currently fixing some rust spots in the trunk of my 67. I removed the original tank over the weekend because it had started leaking and the sending unit was reading inaccurately. I figured I should tackle the shield problem while fixing this. Thanks again. I'm placing my order...
 

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Hey Bob, Good job. I don't know if I will do it, but you made it look so easy...

Bruce
 

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Thanks. I couldn't believe how easy it was!
 

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I was wondering where the metal rear seat divider was purchased from??
Mustangs Unlimited??
And the link to the procedure was not available for the 69..
Any chance on finding the procedure you used Rktmn??
 

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Discussion Starter #6

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Nice work!

Riddle me this, Batman.
Just playing the Devils advocate here............what do you do to protect yourself from 'splash' through the package tray?

A friend of mine intends to install a plate over his fuel tank. He says maybe weld it in. I mentioned that he might think about mounting the tank from the bottom and add straps.

How would he get it out if there is a leak or problem?
Might be a danger when welding this plate of his with anything other than a new empty tank. Boom.:icon16:
 

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You could probably fabricate a box to mount on top of the flange that the tank mounts to, then bolt the tank in from underneath. You would then still have to seal and isolate the filler tube.

I have always wondered about the effectiveness of these back seat plates, what with all the holes and gaps in the package tray, roof pillars etc. One thing it probably DOES do is to stiffen the structure at the rear of the car.
 

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What the heck. I went ahead and ordered it. $80 + $9 handling fee + $9 oversize package + $9 UPS shipping. About $105. Guess it will be worth it.
Just need to put it in right and seal it up. Next weeks project..Wonder what the weather will be like..
 

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This is the source, and article I used. After repeated trimming and fitting, was pretty easy job.

Although the splash shield is not foolproof, I do see it as at least a delay to flames getting through. I added an aluminized thermal barrier to further slow any flames.

They do make flame-retardant sealants that are used in the building industry to slow the spread of fires at wall openings such as electrical outlets, and pipe penetrations through walls. They could probably be used in the car to seal the edges. The weakest path is through the speaker holes, IMO.

I have thought of just having a new floor plate bolted and fire-sealed above the top of the tank. The bolts would bolt through the exisiting floor on either side of where the tank edges are. Servicing the tank would just mean unbolting the floor bolts.
 

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I do think there definate advantages to a metal rear seat divider. Fire and fuel as well as keeping fumes/odors out of the passenger area and noise reduction is another. It also adds some structural integrity. I think the only reason the factory just used two angle braces and a fiber and asphalt barrior is to save money. But I wonder if it would not have been cheaper to make a panel and have welded it in in the frist place. But as with any product, there are usually improvements that come along over the years. So here too!
Carrol Shelby began right away making inprovements to the basic Stang.
On this XR 7 that I'm working on, the goal is to make any necessary repairs that are needed and a few out of sight and reversible upgrades for safety and comfort. Adding lighter weight and better performing underlayment insulation is one and the metal divider is another. Otherwise, this is an unrestored and unmolested original low miles Cougar. The original underlayment also holds water so it is a detriment to the longevity of the surrounding metal. Best to rid the car of all of the heavy original underlayment throughout. Thats what I am doing to perserve the car.
 

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