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Discussion Starter #1
I have written about my 4300 before here, and have read threads about carburators as well. What I am asking for and perhaps the answer is not a simple "this carb" or "that carb" answer.

The skinny-----I have a 1969 XR7 vert. 4 speed close ratio 3.00 open rear S code with a Autolite 4300 4v carb. The car was purchased in early June of this year. It is a numbers matching cougar. It starts right up, and had a gas smell under the hood and thru the exhaust like it was running a little rich. I also have a slight leak at the accelerator pump area. I have done quite a few things to her in the past 3 months. The things done that are affecting my thread here, regarding my desire to switch the carb are the following.

I have changed the spark plugs, ignition wires, put in Pertronics ignition, air filter, switched out the accelerator pump and of course a new gasket. There was a slight hesitation on acceleration that made me feel the accel pump needed to be changed. So here I am, wishing to keep her numbers matching regarding my Autolite 4300, but I am realizing that these carbs were junk even when new. She now starst fine, but once warm idles rough and will stall out. I have not had a car in 20+ years that had a carb and even then never really fooled around with carburators. I see that there are two screws on the bottom front of the carb and these adjust the air and fuel, I believe. I feel that since all the work I have done the carb needs to be adjusted for the new plugs, wires accel pump, etc. The leak BTW is still there by the accel pump. In talking to numerous people, (my brother in law for one whom is a shop foreman at a Ford dealership in NY) the recommendation is to swap out the carb. The issue I have is which one. There are quite a few out there. Edelbrock is what my brother in law is suggesting. The CFM I believe should be around 600 tops. Not sure. Vacuum secondaries as well? Which one/model will swap out the best for doing the least amount of manufacturing to make it fit on the motor?

My question is:

Is there a carb out there that is a pretty easy swap for my cougar? I don't want to race her, just want her to start reliably, run smooth and strong that I know she is able to do.

Any help/recommendations are appreciated. Thank you in advance.

Bill
 

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"One man's junk is another man's treasure". Don't junk the carb. Do you have the correct base gasket? Does your application require the metal plate sandwiched within the base gasket? What condition is the is the base gasket in? If the "numbers matching" thing is about resale then box up the 4300 and let it go with car when you get around to selling it.
 

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Put in a Holley 600 and call it good. I think the part # is 80457S but that's from memory so it could be slightly off. You will have minimal work to do which mostly involves slightly modifying the metal fuel line going to the carb and deciding where to install the fuel filter. If you use an Edelbrock, you will have to completely change your fuel routing and your stock air cleaner may not fit properly. Either brand will function just fine but the Holley is less work and will leave your engine compartment more stock-appearing.
 

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Or you may want to try Pony Carbs and keep her orginal.

http://www.ponycarburetors.com/default.asp?page=carburetors#autolite4300




The Autolite 4300 in one of our very special products. From day-one they all had engineering problems. In driveability those problems amounted to hesitations and flat spots on light acceleration, a big bog on hard acceleration, and hard starting when hot. We correct all of those items during the restoration process by internally re-engineering the specifications of the carburetor. In addition, over a period of years, most 4300's will leak fuel from the front of the carburetor between the lid or air horn, and the main body. This is also corrected.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I did not take off the whole carb, just the top to allow for replacing the accel pump, and replacing a new gasket there. It won't be junked rather boxed up for safe keeping, I just want something a little more trouble free.
"One man's junk is another man's treasure". Don't junk the carb. Do you have the correct base gasket? Does your application require the metal plate sandwiched within the base gasket? What condition is the is the base gasket in? If the "numbers matching" thing is about resale then box up the 4300 and let it go with car when you get around to selling it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
This is very helpful. I am going to seriously look into this.
Put in a Holley 600 and call it good. I think the part # is 80457S but that's from memory so it could be slightly off. You will have minimal work to do which mostly involves slightly modifying the metal fuel line going to the carb and deciding where to install the fuel filter. If you use an Edelbrock, you will have to completely change your fuel routing and your stock air cleaner may not fit properly. Either brand will function just fine but the Holley is less work and will leave your engine compartment more stock-appearing.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I've spoken with them about rebuilding mine. This thought did cross my mind. It is more expensive than getting a new Holley or Edelbrock. All that they write about is what mine does, pretty funny.
Or you may want to try Pony Carbs and keep her orginal.

http://www.ponycarburetors.com/default.asp?page=carburetors#autolite4300




The Autolite 4300 in one of our very special products. From day-one they all had engineering problems. In driveability those problems amounted to hesitations and flat spots on light acceleration, a big bog on hard acceleration, and hard starting when hot. We correct all of those items during the restoration process by internally re-engineering the specifications of the carburetor. In addition, over a period of years, most 4300's will leak fuel from the front of the carburetor between the lid or air horn, and the main body. This is also corrected.
 

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I've spoken with them about rebuilding mine. This thought did cross my mind. It is more expensive than getting a new Holley or Edelbrock. All that they write about is what mine does, pretty funny.
I've gone this route in the past as well with a 4300 and their write-up is far better than the results. Removing the Pony carbs 4300 and replacing with a Holley solved all my issues and delivered superior performance.
 

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I bought a 69 Mach 1 with S code 390 all original car once. The only thing not factory was the carb. I got the original from pony carbs mentioned above. The car became a dog! It was not that the carb was not working properly it is that the carb is way undersized for the 390. I think it was in the area of 500 CFM and was just not up to the 390. It felt like a 40 horsepower drop! Like was said earlier, keep the original carb in a box and run a 600 or better holley or edelbrock.
 

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I have a 4300 from Pony on my 67 standard. It works much better than the original 4300 and if originality is a must is a good option. The pony was installed over 10 years ago by my father. I got the car from him over the summer this year and found the accel pump weak to non existent. I contacted pony to see if I could get specs so I could rebuild the carb myself and was told that's secrete spy stuff but they would be glad to do the work for me. I asked how much and was told it would be the same price as buying a carb from them less a core charge. Well they can kiss my ass. I ordered a carb kit from WCCC and replaced the pump piston and bowl gasket only. Found that the secondary need and seat were eliminated by pony and the float level was way different than stock. Carb works decent now.

If I replace the carb at some point I'll most likely use a Holley from a GT 390 or 289 hipo. Ford PN and correct date codes for my 67. Not original but as close as it gets.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I like this advice. This is what my thought is. I definitely want to keep the 4300, I just want a carb that allows the motor to perform like it should.
I bought a 69 Mach 1 with S code 390 all original car once. The only thing not factory was the carb. I got the original from pony carbs mentioned above. The car became a dog! It was not that the carb was not working properly it is that the carb is way undersized for the 390. I think it was in the area of 500 CFM and was just not up to the 390. It felt like a 40 horsepower drop! Like was said earlier, keep the original carb in a box and run a 600 or better holley or edelbrock.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
See, I keep seeing write ups here like this about the 4300 and as much as I would like to keep her on the car, in a box, on a shelf sounds better.
I have a 4300 from Pony on my 67 standard. It works much better than the original 4300 and if originality is a must is a good option. The pony was installed over 10 years ago by my father. I got the car from him over the summer this year and found the accel pump weak to non existent. I contacted pony to see if I could get specs so I could rebuild the carb myself and was told that's secrete spy stuff but they would be glad to do the work for me. I asked how much and was told it would be the same price as buying a carb from them less a core charge. Well they can kiss my ass. I ordered a carb kit from WCCC and replaced the pump piston and bowl gasket only. Found that the secondary need and seat were eliminated by pony and the float level was way different than stock. Carb works decent now.

If I replace the carb at some point I'll most likely use a Holley from a GT 390 or 289 hipo. Ford PN and correct date codes for my 67. Not original but as close as it gets.
 

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Roger that! Pony Carbs is a legend in their own mind........

I've gone this route in the past as well with a 4300 and their write-up is far better than the results. Removing the Pony carbs 4300 and replacing with a Holley solved all my issues and delivered superior performance.
 

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I purchased the above mentioned Holley for my 390 from the Holley Store on eBay. This was the best price I could find. Worked great.
 

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Or, you could go with a 4100
 
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