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Discussion Starter #1
When someone replaced the 390GT engine with the small block 302 in my XR7-g they also changed the rear end yoke to match the smaller u-joints on the small block drive shaft.
Now I need to get the correct yoke back in, but which one will be correct? I have found that there are several different yokes for a 9 inch out there, and I have been able to find out that the yoke I need should be for the 1330 U-joint.
What I can't seem to find out is if I should have a short or long type 1330 yoke for the 9 inch rear end.
Can someone with a 68 390 or 428 Cougar please tell me what I should buy for my car?
Thanks
Gry
 

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HUH? Guess I thought the yokes were standard and the driveshafts were what changed for length? What does your yoke measure in lenght from the center to the tip of the housing? Maybe somebody could use that as a guide?....I have a small block so I don't know if it would tell us much, but I will look this weekend and see just for curiosity.
 

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There are at least 5 different ones that i know of, long wide, short wide, long narrow, short narrow and the one I am looking for, the one for a N case with Daytona pinion support. It measures 41/2 long.4" wide, and 4" from the seal surface to the U bolt end.
Anybody have one?
 

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There are at least 5 different ones that i know of, long wide, short wide, long narrow, short narrow and the one I am looking for, the one for a N case with Daytona pinion support. It measures 41/2 long.4" wide, and 4" from the seal surface to the U bolt end.
Anybody have one?
Yes...send me a PM. You definitely have the Daytona pinion support? There is a similar yoke for non-Daytona as well.
 

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My friggin jack blew a seal (THANK HARBOR FREIGHT!) so I can't get under it. I'm curious to what to look for for future reference in case I see stuff a a swap meet....I'm pretty confused on what's what on rears...I feel Gry's pain!!
 

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Yes...send me a PM. You definitely have the Daytona pinion support? There is a similar yoke for non-Daytona as well.
PM sent. Thanks for looking
 

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Gry needs this one on her car. It is the tallest / widest one offered by Ford. It was used on all Cougar big block applications from 390-2V through 427 / 428CJ.


 

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Hi Royce, I have to call your hand on this one, it looks like you have the wrong one on your diff., there should be at least 3-4 threads of pinion out of the nut if you have the correct one. The yoke for the Daytona pinion support is different from others, it is machined deeper to allow for the thickness of the larger bearing. If you look in the Ford book it states where they sell yokes, "if used with Daytona support, .200 must be removed from the nut surface:
The yoke you speak of can be used for all but the ones using the Daytona support
 

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Hi Royce, I have to call your hand on this one, it looks like you have the wrong one on your diff., there should be at least 3-4 threads of pinion out of the nut if you have the correct one.
That is correct. Does not assemble correctly on a Daytona bearing when using a stock yoke.
 

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Replacement 1330 and 1350 yokes come with a spacer so they can be used with Daytona and std. pinion supports.
 

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The yoke in my picture is an auto store replacement, not an original. Gry's car did not use a Daytona pinion originally, and even if it did this one works fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
OK, so I bought a tall wide yoke and also had a new driveshaft made exactly to the specified length (49-41/64"), and guess what? It did not work. Either is the yoke too long or the driveshaft is too long as it was just impossible to get the driveshaft in between the transmission and rear end. Now I am frustrated. Is there something I have misunderstood here? The yoke I bought is exactly the same total length as the smaller 1310 yoke that was on the car which is 5 1/16 inch. Should I have bought what some refer to as the short wide yoke instead? Is there anyone out there who knows the measurements on the correct yoke?
 

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You need the long wide one. All 1968 390 and 427 applications used P/N C8WY-4602-B
with C6 automatic transmissions. The shaft is 3" diameter, Length is 49 41/64" center / center of u joints.

Pics, showing all original parts except the U joint:



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When someone replaced the 390GT engine with the small block 302 in my XR7-g they also changed the rear end yoke to match the smaller u-joints on the small block drive shaft.
Now I need to get the correct yoke back in, but which one will be correct? I have found that there are several different yokes for a 9 inch out there, and I have been able to find out that the yoke I need should be for the 1330 U-joint.
What I can't seem to find out is if I should have a short or long type 1330 yoke for the 9 inch rear end.
Can someone with a 68 390 or 428 Cougar please tell me what I should buy for my car?
Thanks
Gry
 

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There is 1" difference between the short and long yoke.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
OK, everything is correct but the driveshaft is still too long. I guess there must be something seriously wrong somewhere, maybe my car is too short :(
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I might have found the problem. Please correct me if I am wrong, but I wonder if the transmission shop managed to put in the wrong rear seal in the transmission? All I need is about 1/4 inch more space to get the rear u-joint in place. If I replace the seal with one without the 1 inch long rubber dust shield I will get more room. What do you think?

 

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The seal is correct.
Is the yoke going all the way in the tailhousing? Should compress the seal boot.
 

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So did they replace the driveshaft when they changed everything else? And if so, which one are you using now? A driveshaft intended for a 8" rear will be longer than one for the larger 9" housing.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Art, I am not sure if I pushed the yoke hard enough into the tailhousing to compress the seal boot. I will give it another try tomorrow and be less gentle :) At least I now know that I have the correct length yoke and driveshaft.

 

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Art, I am not sure if I pushed the yoke hard enough into the tailhousing to compress the seal boot. I will give it another try tomorrow and be less gentle :) At least I now know that I have the correct length yoke and driveshaft.
I've seen the splines twisted just enough to stop the yoke from going all the way on but not enough to be easily seen.
 
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