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Well I got it all the chrome and trim off for painting this spring now comes the dirty job,cleaning up the "belly side"Im have to fix a leak in the rear end It leaking out the bottom at the pumkin.Once I take the drive shaft off can I pull the front out with out pulling the axels to put a new gasket in?Please let this be possible.Its really the only thing thats leaking that will take the most time.
 

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Rear End

My 70 XR7 Ragtop leaks their to someone told me that the axels have to come out I hope their wrong.We need some :1zhelp:
 

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you have to pull the axles out about 5 inches so the axles disengage the center, then you can pull the center out. CAREFULLL... its heavy, use a floor jack and pull slowly.You dont need to take the brakes off, just undo the 4 bolts per axle, and slide out the axles. Remeber there alot of oil that will puke out hen you move the center so have a big bucket ready.

Rick
 

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And besure to wear stuff you can thro out when your done. You will never get the smell out. If it's a trac-lock, the smell will be even worse...

Bruce
 

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not usually. If they are leaking (very wet back plate) then you will but its a $5. part and very easy to replace. Just pull out the seal and replace :) Just might be worth replacing anyways since your there right... If the seal is leaking, then you hould check the axle bearing, to check to see if the bearing is burred or wrecked. But there usaually good.

Rick
 

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a trick i use when removing axels is jack one side up higher than the other and remove the axel on the low side this helps with the oil loss as it will drain to the low side and have the bucket on that side. keeps an already messy job cleaner.
 

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its only about an hour job (start to finish). You might need to whack on the axles to dislidge them if they've never beenr emoved before (Use a mallet or something). You'll know when they come out of the center, then do the other side. Undo the 12 bolts on the pumpkin, leave about 2 or 3 nuts on and have a bucket ready under it, and pry off the pumpkin. (the nuts with keep it from falling) Let it drain, then pull on the floor jack and pumpkin at the same time (dont want the center falling off the jack) until it clears the rear end. Clean up the mounting survaces, put silicone on the rear, place your gasket, then slide the center back on, do up the bolts, slide in the axles nd bolt them back on, fill with oil, DONE..... Very easy. Its just alot of time on your back. The center weights around 75 pound, so be ready for it if it falls, let it go if it does, dont try and catch it and get out of the way, you WILL get hurt..

Rick
 
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i use to work for discount auto parts(now advanced autoparts), they no longer carry the pumpkin gasket, all though it is still available. You can just use ultra black gasket sealer instead. I'm doing the same thing to my cougar this weekend
 

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very heavy allot heavier than you may think so i would suggest getting the 45.00 tranny jack from harbour freight it works great and will save you a hernia scar.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Very helpful Thanks!!

If I have to put seals on the pass. side will have to wait I have no room to pull the axel.A buddy of mine said after you take the bolts out of the axel if it dosnt come off he said take the drums and reverse it ,put the lugs back on and take a block of wood and gently tap on the drum and it should come out.I did buy a bag of oil dry at Sam Club yesterday.If I was still drinkin beer I think I would rate that job a - 6 Pack
 

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If you need the Fel-Pro number for the pumpkin gasket, let me know ( Just a phone call, not like I'm connected or anything). Summit carries these gaskets still, and very cheaply, I think. Like 2.99 each. Buy 2, or 3. They're cheap enough to buy a spare.

Don't just use silicone. I know it's tempting, but it's always a gamble as to whether you'll get a good seal or not. Flatten out the gasket (if it isn't already), then coat it with a really thin film of RTV silicone. Let it sit for 10-15 minutes, then install. The added bonus to this - no extra silicone squeezing out, looking sloppy.

You might as well take the extra time while you're doing it, so you stand a really good chance of not having to do it again for a while. The PO of my car did the silicone thing, and guess what? I'll be doing exactly what you're doing, really soon.

Also, you might want to look at the jack adapter that Summit sells. It bolts to the pinion housing, so you don't have to worry about the pumpkin falling off the jack while you wrestle with it. I plan on getting it, cause I'm quite the accident-prone guy.
 

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Most local auto parts stores should carry the gasket. The 9 inch housing was used in several cars up through the 70s. I bought one at the now defunct Trak Auto a couple of years ago for around $2. Call around, you will find it.

If you have a jack with a wide base and a friend willing to hold the pumpkin in place, you can get by without the adapter. Unless you think you'll be doing this often enough to merit the purchase ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Time to swap

Well since it has to come off I mightas well look around for a 3.50 the 4.11 is a real screamer.I gave up chasing lights a long time ago.Any one want to trade??
 

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Good point Jim. One of these rigs is kinda like a cherry-picker. Your buddies get more use out of it than you do. Hey, as long as somebody uses it, right?
 

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Sure would like to have that 4.11 and I have a spare 3.50 to trade. How far is it from Solon to Cincinnati?

[email protected]
 

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Also don't forget to add a friction modifier (get from Ford or equivalent) , if you have a trac-loc rearend .

On a conventional ratio , all you need is 80-90w gear oil. : )
 

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Hey Dan, I could give you a hand with this if you need it. I used to work on a stock car pit crew at Lorain and Cloverleaf Speedways. We were changing 9" rears twice a week due to the different track sizes. I got pretty good at it.

Even though I live on the west side, I'm over in your neck of the woods (Macedonia) every weekend until my project is back together. If you're interested PM me and I'll give you my number.

Mark
 
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