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I'm about to order a new radiator for my 69 vert (m code, manual trans, no A/C). I am going to order a 3 row aluminum with 1" tubes. Should I go with a 24" (width) or the stock 20"? It looks like either one will bolt in with no issues. With the 24" I will simply have to remove the block off plate that restricts the size of the opening. Anyone have experience with this?
 

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I'm about to order a new radiator for my 69 vert (m code, manual trans, no A/C). I am going to order a 3 row aluminum with 1" tubes. Should I go with a 24" (width) or the stock 20"? It looks like either one will bolt in with no issues. With the 24" I will simply have to remove the block off plate that restricts the size of the opening. Anyone have experience with this?
If you go with the 24", you will also need the two lower brackets, insulaters and bolts as well as the upper bracket, insulaters and bolts.
 

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Bigger is better, but I would think that 20in. with 3 rows would be all you need
 

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I would still go with the larger radiator. Larger equals more water capacity.
 

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Even with the original (200 ish HP ?) mildly modded 289, my 20" rad could not keep up very well (in SoCal) ....
..... now with the (360ish HP ?) roller motor, I've got the 24 inch "stock" big block rad .... and it stays cool ALWAYS ... even sitting idling in traffic for Hours at 90 degree plus ambient temps
 

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I recommend the 24". Don't forget the shroud that has to change!
 

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Nope
Research this further before you buy the 24"
Do tell Art. I don't know anything about a block off (but recall reading something somewhere, 67/68 perhaps?). My car had a factory 20" radiator originally and I put a factory-type 24" radiator in with no problem whatsoever, just the mounts were needed (and the J-bolts in the rad support no longer needed).
 

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Do tell Art. I don't know anything about a block off (but recall reading something somewhere, 67/68 perhaps?). My car had a factory 20" radiator originally and I put a factory-type 24" radiator in with no problem whatsoever, just the mounts were needed (and the J-bolts in the rad support no longer needed).
OK, the block off the OP mentioned (I assume) were two pieces of sheet metal that sandwiched between the radiator and core support to block off open areas beside the 20" radiator. Additional parts are needed (as you know) to mount a 24" radiator in place of the 20" radiator. Lower supports, upper clamp, shroud.
Not a big deal if you anticipated these items when the larger radiator was ordered but might be confusing if you weren't familiar with the mounting hardware of Cougars/Mustangs.
 

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before you jump into the modification jungle , call john @ beko radiator in concord ,ca---he manufactures his own cores using a dimple tube tech method---his rad solved the big block cougar issues and the o'heating issues in my 47 plymouth--the plymouth has 1/8 off the head and ran a walker street rod rad--just wouldn't cool with your foot in the spitfire six--john's rad is a copper ,4 row with with modified stock tanks---runs on the thermostat temp all the time
doctordesoto
 

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I used to live in Visalia, CA and my cougar originally came with just a 20" radiator. Because of the hot and dry air in the San Joaquin Valley, it would overheat often in the summer. I recommend upgrading if you need a new radiator anyway. The brackets, insulators and shroud you will need for a 24" radiator will run right around $200.
 

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I live in Florida and own a 67 390 GT with a 20 inch radiator. I haven't had any overheating problems. I'm using a 193 degree thermostat and no overflow tank.
 

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I live in Florida and own a 67 390 GT with a 20 inch radiator. I haven't had any overheating problems. I'm using a 193 degree thermostat and no overflow tank.
In the San Joaquin Valley, the humidity is usually around 25% to 30% in the summer when the temperature exceeds 100F more than a few days a year. I'll compare this to Orlando, FL, where the afternoon humidity is around 60% when the temperature is about 95F. The from my calculations, the transfer heat from the radiator to the air is about 50% better in Orlando than it is in the San Joaquin Valley. I'm commenting because the original poster appears to be from Sacramento. I don't have any problem overheating in the East Bay with my 20" radiator.
 

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Doc,

As we've discussed, it really isn't a "mod" per se, the stuff bolts right in. Yes, brackets and shroud will run a little bit to go with the bigger rad (which runs a little bit too), but personally I like the "all stock" setup and to me is one of the things I like most about my build, only mildly (and hopefully tastefully) deviated from a concours resto.

Regards,

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Wow - A lot of good (and conflicting) opinions from people more knowledgable and experienced than myself. I have not yet decided what radiator to get but I do appreciate all of the info.
 

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Champion radiators 24" and 20" (3 core aluminum) are about 1/2" too tall,........even resting all the way down on the strut rod braces. Will leave some nice dimples on your hood. The 24" width clears without air flow obstruction from the core support, but you will be drilling new mounting holes to install. Had to adjust my hood latch and hood bumpers,...after damage was done, now my stainless nose trim (hood to fender extensions) does not cleanly line-up! Just because they say it will fit,.....learn from me, the height measurement is critical.
 

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Im put a Fomoco 24" radiator in front of my 351W. I did not even have to put a radiator shroud in it. It barely ever gets anything more then warmed up. I don't think it would be possible to overheat it.
 

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I have upgraded to 24" factory radiator on 2 cars. Yes the upper and lower brackets are needed and fan shroud. Never had a problem yet. Just get a radiator with the core tubes spaced at 3/8 inch centers (if i remember right) and 3 cores at least. Good radiators are expensive these days. I bought a cheapie off e bay and it was spaced at 9/16 and held less coolant than the 20 " Lesson learned.
 
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