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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All. 1987 was the year that I last painted a 70 Cougar and much has changed since then. R&M Lacquer & 727 clear was the product used on that particular Cat. Easy to spray and hard to screw it up.

So, a few questions to the bodymen on this forum: What paint system is best for our Cougars? Is everyone pretty much choosing basecoat / clearcoat systems for solid color applications now?

If so, which system do you guys like and feel is most user friendly?

Does anyone feel that a particular clear is better (lays down better) and has less of a tendency to yellow and/or crack?

Last, can product lines be successfully used with each other... say R&M color with Dupont clear?

Thanks in advance for the comments.
 

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Some brands can be intermixed. But I would recommend against it because if you run into trouble somewhere, each guy is going to blame the other. Stick with the same line across the board... whichever you choose.

As for which one? It seems every trigger guy has his own preference and you'll be hard pressed to find two guys who agree. I've had tremendous success with both House of Kolor and Dupont Hot Hues. I've also had good luck with PPG. HOK is expensive but it allowed me to lay down a show worthy finish on my very first attempt. Hot Hues is equally impressive but it is even more expensive. Plus the majority of their custom colors only come in pints! Pints = Waste of material. I'll never use them again. At least HOK will get you quarts.

But all that is null and void if you want a factory original color. Yes, most everyone, unless they're going full concours is going base/clear. You can get a factory color mixed in a two stage from pretty much ANY of the more popular manufacturers. As to which one, I refer you to my first sentence in paragraph two... LOL!

Sorry I really didn't answer your question. Perhaps, if you get enough guys to chime in, you can use their answers as an informal survey.
 

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Like Local Hero stated, everyone has their preference. I found HOK to be rather finicky on a couple of occassions. After a multi colored metalic/ candy job, it cratered....bad. It even lifted the primer. I've been painting for 30 years and never had that happen. Fun time sanding all that back down. My pick is PPG for what it's worth.
 

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I want my cars to look like they have factory paint and factory paint was not anywhere near a mirror finish in 1965, or 1968, or 1973. So I use only Single Stage especially since all colors are light and solid. I've done so since 1991 and while some say it is harder, and that may have been the case in 1991 for me, it isn't now. My paint is PPG Concept Urethane.
 

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i am not by far a professional painter, my best luck has been using the ppg omni line, it does mix with the other ppg line. i like it due to cost and how it lays out. i do agree with tbm3fan, single stage for solid colors is much easier . i do like the keystone european clear as well, its hard has hell to mess it up
 

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If you liked r-m back then you'll love it now. Diamont base coat dc92 clear good choice. you can use limco lc4100 clear if you want to save a few bucks on clear and still have a decent product. Whtever you choose stay in the product line follow directions from the manufacturer
 

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I agree, stay with one manufacturer if at all possible. Read, and re-read the instructions, and maybe look for a video. I have learned a lot by reading, and watching, and asking questions.

Regarding RATTLE cans, I do a lot of arty projects, and have noticed in recent years that the first thing I look for on the can BEFORE I buy is, WHEN CAN I RECOAT. I am finding many manufacturers say, WITHIN AN HOUR OR AFTER 48 HOURS. I can't live with such, so I don't buy that brand. I have waited 48 hours and still, it often wrinkles, or heaves. I buy only that that says, RECOAT ANYTIME.....

Dale in Indy
 

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Discussion Starter #10
What color are you going to spray? That makes a difference in what I'd suggest.
Thank you for all of the responses on this base-coat / clear-coat topic. Sean, the color would be Comp Orange (Calypso Coral in Ford). I greatly appreciate the input.

Happy New Year !
 

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An easy way would be to first shoot the whole thing in a cheaper single stage like PPG's Omni. Do all your jambs and whatnot, then wetsand the exterior of the car with 1000 or so without sanding through the color, then tape it back up and put a few coats of clear. The Omni clear is actually not bad. As long as you keep it clean and waxed, you shouldn't have a problem with it. Sanding the single stage down flat will make the clear lay out like glass- better than one of those $400-a-gallon clears, and you won't have to buff the whole thing, just sand and buff any little bits of trash you get.

When comparing different paint systems to one another, I know that one of the big factors in cost and quality difference is just paint match reliability, which won't matter to you since you are spraying the whole thing, so a cheaper line would be perfectly acceptable. I've sprayed a bunch of Omni MK single stage, and it covers in just a couple coats. If you were asking about having to spot-in a panel on a new Mercedes or something, I'd tell you to use something more pricey like Sikkens, which is what I spray.
 
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