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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok fellahs,

A seller sent me some pics of his car. It needs paint - current paint is the correct color, but worn, with chips and dings from age. Truthfully, I was thinking I could probably get away with not painting it - just get a pro touch up and drive it. But then I got some pics that show some rust issues.

It also looks like it has had some work done on the drivers(?) quarter in the past. Definitely not good, but still fixable.
It also has a rust hole in the drivers front torque box, and the passenger torque box looks questionable - maybe patched or spackled at some point?

The odd thing is that the floor pans look pretty good. But maybe closer inspection would reveal pin holes. Not sure.

Pics below. Please post your thoughts on these items and what you think the bill might be for the body repairs. Just ball park, of course.

Thanks fellahs,

Passenger Torque Box.jpg Drivers Torque Box.jpg Drivers Rear Quarter.jpg
 

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There are lots of rust free Cougars available in Oregon. Why would they not one of them be the cars you are looking at to purchase?

I see about $2000 worth of rust repairs in those three shots. I bet if we could see the entire underside, trunk floor and cowl that number would be $8000.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
There are lots of rust free Cougars available in Oregon. Why would they not one of them be the cars you are looking at to purchase?

I see about $2000 worth of rust repairs in those three shots. I bet if we could see the entire underside, trunk floor and cowl that number would be $8000.
None of the rust free Oregon cars (that I can find) are 4-speed '70 Eliminators :-/
 

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The amount of rust in the trunk drop-off/wheel-well area would give question to the entire rear structure. With the torque box photos,...the exposed edges of the factory punch and press cuts look clean and not swollen,...a good thing! Wonder what's up with all the undercoating product on the pass. side torque box and rocker? Someone would definitely need to see, in person, the entire under structure, to give a gross approximation.
 

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Be that as it may I would not mess with a car that needed extensive rust repair regardless of its options or state of origin.

There is a 4 speed Eliminator out there with your name on it that does not have extensive rust issues. Save your money and be patient!

None of the rust free Oregon cars (that I can find) are 4-speed '70 Eliminators :-/
 

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Yeah...looks like some money that you would have to put into fixing that stuff. I would also want to look at it in person. Did you get pictures on the gold one Mike?
 

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Well Mike, I remember you saying you don't have the space/place to work on this stuff yourself, so - yeah, I gotta agree with Royce, but the ECI in me says - that's not the worst I've seen. The vert I just got is in that kind of shape I'd say (But I've got a mig and lot of wire! LOL) If you go poking around under there with an ice pick ---- I bet you find many surprises...a magnet is a good tool as well
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks Fellahs, I appreciate the input and support :)

I'm doin my best to be patient, but it sure is harder now that car show season has started. LOL!

No word on the comp gold car. I don't even know if the owner is interested in selling. Right now it is just a lead I am following up on, with no details on the car itself besides "70 eliminator, 351C, 4-speed, comp gold, California car".

Yeah, all I have is a garage slot so I would have to farm out any body / paint work, and probably just about anything else that requires really tearing a car down too far. I mean, I do have a decent sized shed to catch various removed parts, but that only goes so far - as I'm sure you guys know :)

I do have pics of the trunk and floors. I'll post pics to satisfy the curious and hear what you fellahs will think of those...
Is it just me, or does the drivers floor look "wavy" around the back seat foot area?

By the way, this is NOT the '70 Eliminator 351 4-speed that is listed in Oklahoma for $19k. The owner of this car told me "lets start at $15k and go from there".

Passenger Front Floor.jpg Drivers Front Floor.jpg Drivers Rear Floor.jpg Trunk.jpg Drivers Mid Floor 2.jpg
 

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How much is a plane ticket to go see the car in person? I think it would be worth seeing the car in person, and then checking some prices locally, for comparison sakes. Plus, it is possible to find guys that do a good job with this kind of thing as side money too. It comes down to the old equation of time VS money.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
What is the red and yellow paint in the third picture of your first post? Is that like a road sign of some sort??
I think so. Either a road sign or an advertising sign of some sort. :bloated:

Looks like part of a red star on a yellow background.
 

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I'm starting to back pedal a bit more now Mike - those pics look a lot more encouraging - looks solid with a few bumps n bruises. 15K is still kinda steep for a car that would be well past 35k if that's your starting point ---- as you already know you are in" I may not get my money out of it territory there" if that's a concern. Go over to his place with an autobody shop estimate on a restore job and see if he will meet you more realistically....paint alone is goint to be near 9K - that doesn't include body/prep work (some which you may be able to provide, but keep those cards im your vest pocket) Now go out and look at cars you want that are in that price point and see if you still think this one is worth it....that puts a pretty good light on it. The rest is going to be how complete it is and what condition the whole package is in. If it's your dream car/color, maybe going out on a limb works - if it's lacking - price can make it more attractive
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'm starting to back pedal a bit more now Mike - those pics look a lot more encouraging - looks solid with a few bumps n bruises. 15K is still kinda steep for a car that would be well past 35k if that's your starting point ---- as you already know you are in" I may not get my money out of it territory there" if that's a concern. Go over to his place with an autobody shop estimate on a restore job and see if he will meet you more realistically....paint alone is goint to be near 9K - that doesn't include body/prep work (some which you may be able to provide, but keep those cards im your vest pocket) Now go out and look at cars you want that are in that price point and see if you still think this one is worth it....that puts a pretty good light on it. The rest is going to be how complete it is and what condition the whole package is in. If it's your dream car/color, maybe going out on a limb works - if it's lacking - price can make it more attractive
I agree, it doesn't look impossible, and the seller is willing to negotiate, but I'm just not feelin' it. So I've told the seller (John - an acquaintance of Cougar Bill) that I'm going to have to pass. I posted the sale / contact info in the Eliminator Market thread, if anyone else is interested.

The interior looks really good on the car, even though it has been reupholstered in non-original materials. Engine compartment is clean, although the engine has been modified a bit (I understand it has a cam with a Boss351-style grind). John has the original carb still, and it has a Pertronix ignition in the stock distributor.

Another thing to mention is that a previous owner had cut up the transmission tunnel for some sort of shifter mod. John (or his brother) tracked down a correct 4-speed trans tunnel and replaced the mangled one.

Thanks again for all the input, I appreciate it.
 

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Meh - something will kick up - swap meets are another source and in full swing right now.....keep the word out and I bet you will find your cat! Plenty of non-computer guys still selling their stuff out there....
 

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Mike,

Did you ever consider an automatic car and swapping transmissions once you get it? I have not read what all is involved with the transmission tunnel swap but the 4 speed cars look close to the auto cars. May be easy? I am one for originality but if you can do a swap that is easily converted back when it's time to sell it that may be an option.

Brian
 
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