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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok well here is my situation:
I currently have a 351C in my cat as of now, it's a bit tired, has about 139,000 on it. Still runs good and all but I need more.
To get it to the 450 hp range i am looking at like 5 grand.

I know a 460 will fit in my car so what I am asking all you 460 owners is are they worth it. I know it has tons o power, but I need real facts, pros and cons, what I need to make it work and all from all of you:)
I really appreciate your time and insight!
Thanks in advance
 

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Oh, it's worth it. Absolutely. Don't look for a daily driver with the power you're looking for, though. Might be a little bit temperamental for the street. It all depends on your patience level though.
As far as pros and cons, again, that depends. It's fun surprising people (I haven't told anyone who's asked me on the street the real size of the motor) when a car that size moves like a 5.0 mustang, if not more so. The biggest con, for me, is controlling the heat levels. Then again, I still haven't put on an aftermarket water pump - that could definitely contribute towards solving my problem. But, the 460 is kinda crammed in there, just like anything else. Ask Rktmn Bob, he'll tell you. The fit on his is a bit tighter than ours. And the driveability is a bit iffy at times. Forget about driving in the rain, it ain't happening without a little practice.
If you've got the time, and the talent, it's definitely worth the effort, to me. Although it tends to give the purists a heart attack, you can build it to fly!
A big-block builds power very easily, little more so than a small block. You'll need a set of 460 headers (Hooker makes them, I'm sure others do a better job). I've had a hard time finding an intake to fit other than the Torker 460 thats on there, not much hood clearance. A deeper oil pan is a must, cause you'll wind up running a front sump pan (not the greatest thing for drags, but it works).
As far as other mods, you'll definitely wind up needing a set of subframe connectors. Probably wind up needing ladder bars (or traction bars) on the rear axle as well. I kept the front springs, they nice and soft with the weight of the 460. Makes for good weight transfer to the rear. Might want to consider using 1350 yokes and u-joints for the driveshaft too, along with a loop. Thats a lot of power you wanna put to the ground, you'll need a driveshaft thats not gonna twist like a pretzel.
Oh, and you might wind up putting the battery in the trunk. Gives you a bit more room under the hood.

Okay, thats about it. I'm really beat right now, and I know I missed a TON of stuff. All you guys, help me help him, okay?

- Mike
 

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I'm not sure what to add to Mike's comments. He pretty well touched on everything. I will say that I used to run a '70 351C-4V with 10.5:1, quench chamber heads, Street Dominator, Holley 750DP, Crane cam (sorry can't recall specs) Hooker headers, Accell DP and MSD through an FMX to 3.70 gears. I rode in a 69 with a basically stock 460 and 3.00:1 gears in it once and knew I had to have one.
To steal a phrase, "It's not your Father's Mercury".
If you want brute force, low end torque and don't give a crap about road racing (front end is a bit heavy) it's the only way to go. Straight line accelleration is fantastic. You'll have it easier to do the swap since the 429 was available from the factory in your body and there are sites out there dedicated to the 429 Cougar and Mustang.(http://429mustangcougarinfo.50megs.com/)
And there is also a yahoo group forum http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/429-460Stangs/ also.
Sometimes I say Man, I should have gone with the FE - it would be so much easier (a bolt in for the 67-70), but then I look at it and say "NAAAHH". :p:

Ooops - forgot to mention that you will have to do some serious considerin' as to how your gonna get that power to the pavement. Traction bars, ladder bars, wider tires....?
 

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I'd put the 460 in, only if you plan to drag race it. Say good bye to gas mileage and say hello to more weight in the front end. My uncle has one in his 72 F-100. It kicks ass but its hard to keep the tires from breaking loose. The rearend is too light. You will have to do some beefing up to the frame. Building up the 351C will be your best bet. Good luck on whatever you do. Later!!
 

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I started setting my 460 in the car today! Man its big and takes up alot of room. My hats off to Bob for fighting one in between the shock towers, I'm glad I removed mine but it wont be that bad in your car.

450 hp streetable? Thats up for discussion as to what you want but I will say that a 450 hp 460 will be much easier to street than a 450 hp Cleavland. 450 hp is easy to get with the 460 and probably cheaper in both the short and long term. mm
 

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I used FPA shorty headers. You can see the "old" style in my gallery, or the "new" style here at FPA: http://fordpowertrain.com/Headers.htm
The long block price looks pretty good. I spent that much on machining, pistons, rings and bearings - and I bought my heads seperate.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Man what do you do wait in the shadows for a responce...lol
How much realistically am i looking at for a streetable 460?
 

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If you bought a built long block and did nothing really fancy to it: probably 2-2.5K. All depends on what you do. Intake-200, carb-200, headers-300, front cover, dist - 0 (if you use the one from your 351C), brackets & pulleys-100, oil pan-100. It's the little stuff that eats you up.
 

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Years ago, back in the eighties, I remember seeing a Boss 302 (70) that Dr. John Craft had put a 385 series engine in. He lettered it with Boss 302 stickers and half the people that saw it had no clue it wasn't an authentic boss.
It ran well too.
Anyway, the 460 is a bad boy. The other guys are right. It'll be more streetable than a cleveland at that power level. You can still find lots of old boneyard lincolns with 70-73 460 4v engines in the trader papers too. especially now that the gas is getting expensive.
A cleveland would need lots of name dropping to make that kind of power. You know, Yates, aussie, phase 3, etc.
How bout this though? Ever think of building a 302 cleveland out of an aussie rotating assembly? Yeah, the aussies have a 302 inch cleveland down there. I bought one of the rotating asseblies with pistons on ebay for my cleveland when it dropped a valve for $500. I've seen them run pretty well at the strip. High revving, short stroke cleveland power! woohoo!
If you're set on the 385 engine, think about the 460 crate engine from ford. with a little nitrous you'd be in your hp level and have a proven combo without lots of unseen expense.
*shrug*
just some thoughts...:alien:
 

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humm, break it down to cost to see if its worth it. motor/tranny. motor/tranny mounts, linkage, rad, exhaust/headers, driveshaft, rear end upgrade, new coil springs, better brakes, hood fitment problems (maybe???), plus all the labor doing the swap. My guess would be close to 6K for a stock motor and parts. Now, you'll want to get 450hp out of it, and some guys said2-3K for that, your up to 9K for a 450hp 460. You can build a 450hp cleveland for alot less, and no major upgrades :D

Rick
 

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Hey, that's a good point.
Not to mention that you can put an EFI setup on a cleveland and have access to lots more engine mods (think centrifugal blower, et.) more easily. Not to mention driveability with high horsepower.
 

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OK, mine is in a 68 not a 73 but, the 460 can make 450 hp (at the flywheel) very easily. Since the 429's were available in your bodystyle, the parts to do the swap will be available. It all has a price! Maybe you can sell off your 351 to help defer the cost.

I started with a gutted car. No motor, no transmission and I had the 460 and c6 so it was a "no-brainer" for me.

Traction is a BIG problem!

Just my 2 cents worth.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hmmm, i am liking the diversity i am getting guys and thanks for keeping it real, and not blowing smoke up my a$$. I may look into the 302 idea i never even heard of that....thanks Kevin. The 351C route is definately easier, and possibly more cost effective...i just want my car to be competitive is all, cause after it's painted orange...it's gonna need a lot of backin up to be taken seriously:)
 

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If you want to go the EFI route on the cleveland, you can buy adapter plates for a 302 manifold, or you can have one made from a 351W lower intake.
The 302 Cleveland parts aren't plentiful, but can be found. I don't know what the max hp is on them either.
You can also make a stroker cleveland to get more cubes (400+ inches)
There's a lot you can do if you want to spend lots.
I love the cleveland.j
Dropping a 302w in my cat is making me feel like a sellout!
 

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Dave remember with HP increase everything else must be brought up as well but adding big block swap over a 335 series rebuild your trippling your headaches. I agree you have a clevland one of the best motors ford ever built and it is in a light package. rebuild the 335 series and have fun add a shift kit and new tourque convertor and about a thousand in rear end work and another 500 in brakes and 800 in suspension upgrades and you will have a nice nimble combination. trust me with the 429 in the ranchero going around curves can be exciting to say the least.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hmmm i am really, begining to see the benifits of the 335 series engine. Can anyone tell me a good combo for this motor, i just don't want to get killed at the track, or on the street during a playfull little streetlight showdown. Also what are the rea end , brakes and suspension upgrades i need to do?
 

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Hi Dave,

Just wanted you to know that years ago one of my friends dropped a very healthy 429 into his 68 Cougar - including cutting a round hole in the hood for the air filter element. Next thing he knew, he was getting spanked at the stoplights by regular Japanese family sedans, as he could not effectively put the power to the ground.

So whatever engine and hp combo you choose - make sure you are setup to launch with it.
 
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