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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone ever tried this? I found a nice 460/C6 reasonably cheap. And something about a 7.5litre '67 Cougar is SO appealing. :D

I was talking to a mechanic friend of mine(also owner of a '67 with 408-Windsor Stroker). He told me that its not overly complicated to put a 460 in the car. I'm just wondering if anyone here has tried it. Also...does anyone know of the person that makes motor mounts for swapping a 460 into a '67 Cougar/Mustang?

Thanks,

-Random
 

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Random -
One of the better guys to ask about this might be Rktmn, aka Bob. His cat is closest to yours in years. I know my info won't be much help, cause there's more room to play with in the 71-73's.

- Mike
 

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Yep. It can be done. Crites makes kits to do it. The 460 is as wide as an FE, but the width is in a different place. It is also longer and taller than your SB, and of course heavier. There are ways to lighten the engine and the nose of the car.
The Crites kits move the engine forward and up 1". So there's no room for a fan.
http://www.critesrestoration.com/mustang.htm
FPA makes shorty headers: http://fordpowertrain.com/Headers.htm

More info at http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/429-460Stangs/

And I have pictures of my 460 in my gallery.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thanks RKtmn, my buddy mentioned there was a company that made the mounts, but my search had no avail.

Now, I've got a couple of quick questions. I noticed in your gallery you say you have an electric pusher fan and a 4-row aluminum raditor. How does it run on the street? This car will be mainly for street use...and there is stop and go traffic around here quite often. So keeping cool is a priority...especially in Texas heat! :)

Thanks,

-Rob

Edit: D'oh! ~Lapse in reading ability~ I just realized its not your car with the pusher fan. Ok, so let me re-phrase the question. What type of setup are you using on your car to keep it cool?
 

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Bob -
I notice your alternator is in the same location as mine. What length is that little spacer between the block and the alternator? Mine seems to have...disappeared...and I'm using washers to space it out at the moment. I know, it's butchered.:D

Does somebody sell that spacer? At the moment, I'm lacking the equipment to do the job right if I try and fab one up.
 

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RandomMan - I am still looking at set ups for the fan. I have a 24" 3 row radiator and oil coller and am looking at fan options now. I will let you know what I come up with.

Zero - I will go measure that thing and get back to you. I may even have a spare out there in my "short pump" collection.

EDIT: Zero - the spacer is 1". I don't have another, my Tbird (shorty) set up is 3/4". I plan to make a run to a yard or two this weekend, weather permitting, so I will look for one for ya.

RandomMan - There is another company making the kit and their claim to fame is that the motor is not raised or set forward at all. From what I have heard you have to remove the cross brace under the motor though. I wasn't crazy about that idea. My brother-in-law hs a 460 in his 69 Mustang. He did the swap back in the late 70s and he used FE mounts. I had considered that, but my headers wouldn't fit so I scrapped that idea. Still have all the mounts and brackets though. I will look up the other company if you're interested. Perhaps you could fab your own cross brace?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm not sure about fabbing a cross brace. Perhaps I could modify the exsisting one. Otherwise I doubt I can do it.

The kit(MPG) interests me about not moving the motor foward. However, the MPG kit says no power steering. Something I hope to retain(that and the A/C). Seems like I'm asking alot. A/C, PS, Keeping it cool for street driving. :)

I'm checking it out. I think I'll go ahead and get this 460...and "experiment" some. See what I can do. The car is an original FE(390 S-code) and C6 car. So the MPG kit appeals to me, since I still have the stock C6 crossmember. Headers are a must, those shorties in the link you posted look promising enough. :)

Something tells me this project is going to get outta hand! Don't they all though! :cwm27:

-Rob

Edit: I'm still pending as a member for the 429-460 Mustang group. So its still coming up Members Only. Hopefully, I'll be able to check it out soon.
 

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I'm looking at putting a 460 in a 69, mostly fabbing all my own mounting brackets. I've been told that I have to cut the towers and some basic measurements seem to verify this. Is there a way around that? If anything, I'm trying to move the motor back, not up, so the weight bias is better.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Bruce, check the MPG kit there. It says no shock tower modifications nessecary. Of course...one can never be positive of that without the motor and kit. I was told by my friend earlier that I shouldn't have to make shock tower modifications.

There is that old trick from the drag racers about "shaving" the shock towers a bit for header clearence. With those shorty headers it shouldn't matter too much though.

I think I'm going to get a 460 suspend it on my cherry picker with the tranny in place and check the measurements. Then see what type of modifications have to be done.

Could be several weeks from now, of course I'll certainly keep you all appraised of the situation. :)

-Rob
 

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If you plan to go with FPA shorty headers, ask them who they use for the motor mounts---I remember they had recomended a place called Darkhorse or somehting like that who makes swap mounts. I hear MPG doesn't want to sell just the mount without their headers.
Whether you have shorties or long tubes you will still need to have access to the exhaust bolts. I would recomend cutting the towers if you have the equipment, I am very glad I cut my towers. I am running a 460 in a 70 XR-7 as a daily driver. I had originally put the engine in witthout cutting the towers, it had taken 3 hours to install 7 header bolts with no gasket, and the help of a plether of tool and the use of a lift. After I cut the towers, I had both headers on in about 1 hour with gaskets. the extra 2 - 2 1/2" really helps out a lot. I was using long tubes, but now I use the FPA's---less heat, less noise, no leaks, no burnt idler arm bushings, easy starter and trans access. Percy's makes an aluminum sandwiched type gasket that is reusable. It costs about 30-35 bucks and is availible through Jeg's or Summit. You may have well use something good from the beginning---whether the towers are cut or not, this is not a fun gasket to change.
 

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I didn't have to trim my towers, but the FPA shortys were a bit close to the reinforcing brace on the right side so I did cut a chunk out just to be sure it wouldn't tap against it.
I install the engine with the left header bolted on and then put the right header on with the motor/trans assy about half way in. The FPA header hits the blower motor if you try to install the engine with the header bolted on it.
I can r&r the right side header with the engine bolted in in about an hour.
The left side will come out with the motor about 1/2 way out.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Mark,

What type of cooling system are you running on your Cat for daily driving?

I suspect to maintain the cooling on a 460 Cat with A/C is going to require a heavy duty radiator and some trick fans. Particularly in stop and go traffic on a 100 degree day.

If common sense was capable of reaching this thick head. I would slip a 351w in this car and drive it. What fun would that be though? :D

-Rob
 

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Ah, the cooling system, well, it is a little special, but it works with just one unshrouded single 14" electric fan. I had moved my radiator forward about 2" to aliviate space to install the fan as a puller---pullers are 20% more efficiant then a pusher fan. I originally installed a Griffen with 2 1 1/4" cores but the temp still fluctuated with tow electric fans. All of a sudden the Griffen started leaking out of several places so I decided to go with a Northern Radiator---availible through Summit as the "Summit brand"---about 100 cheaper then the Griffen. This radiator has 2 1" cores and looks better. But best of all it stays cooler and this is with just one electric fan. Both radiators I had to bring to a welding shop to have the lower spout cut off and welded at a different angle.
I think I will upgrade to a flex-a-lite dual fan unit which is shrouded with a rubber seal. Sometimes, after sitting in traffic for an hour or so, it will get a little hot.
I run a 195 thermostat. Using a cooler thermostat will require more radiator capacity to maintain the lower temp. The engine temp is less likely to fluctuate with the hotter thermostat.
Make sure you have the water pump backing plate between the waterpump and the timing cover. It is an easy piece to leave out of a 429-460, especially since the gasket set only comes with one water pump gasket when 2 are required--one for each side of the plate.

351?---nahhhh, why be practical when you can have "oooh's and ahhh's".

What is the rest of the drive line?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
What is the rest of the drive line?
Well, I think it all depends on what my mind thinks up(<-thats a dangerous thing) :)

The engine will hopefully be a 460(obvious right?)

Rear end will most likely be a 9"(already have a 9" under it from the 390) w/3.55's 31-spline axles and of course...the manditory locker.

Tranny...ahh the toughie. Personally...this will be a weekend driver...so I'd like to row the gears myself. I think I might just end up with a T-56 6spd shoved into the trans tunnel. For short term purposes it will be a C6.

As for cooling. I suspect I may be able to "rearrange" the mounts on the radiator(read move it foward about an inch), and still have room to mount the condenser. To allow clearance for a fan...perhaps.

-Rob
 

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Mark,

I take it that you didn't get my message last week asking pretty much these same questions. (I pulled the 460/C6 out of the Lincoln last weekend.)
 

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Hey Bruce,

Sorry I missed your question. Let me know if you need me to expand on any of my replys.
 

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Some kits use the stock crossmember and mount. I know MPG says they're kit uses the stock mount and crossmember. I am not sure if Crites uses the stock crossmember or not, since I am using an AOD, I need to run a custom crossmember reguardless.
My upper control arms are lowered without the use of a kit. You can go as low as 1 inch down with the stock balljoint angle. Anymore then that, and you will need the kit that reangles the ball joint. When I cut my towers, I cut right across the boltholes for the uppercontrol arm's stock location.
It just so happened that with the 460 AOD combo, my stock driveshaft fit just right.
 
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