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Discussion Starter #1
I am getting close to paint. I have not got my wheels in or set my stance. I have all of the front end suspension parts in hand and a 4 wheel disc brake conversion ready to go on the car. I have to get my wheels to finish that project because the brakes require 17 inch rims. I have a little fund saved to get the car off to paint. I am going to need to roll the fenders before paint. Ordering wheels and tires would delay me 2 or 3 months or so while I save some more funds for paint.

What would you do? Get the wheels and mock everything up before paint? Or push for paint and install the brakes and suspension after paint?
 

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I would get wheels first and anything else mocked up. You dont want to have to scratch new paint trying to fit or put on parts do you? Mabe you won't have to roll your fenders, how would you know till you put them on?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Doh! That is what I thought. Limited time and resources sometimes force you to consider your plan B!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the feedback. I just ordered the wheels and tires. Woot!
 

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If you weren't having to roll the fenders, you could go ahead and paint it.

One thing I wish I would have done differently is to paint it before I put in the freshly painted suspension. Since I did suspension first, I now have a bunch of overspray on my otherwise gloss black suspension.

What size wheels and tires and which suspension setup are you going to put on? Maybe somebody has done the same thing before, and can tell you whether or not you need the fenders rolled. OR, you could just roll them anyway over the weekend and have the car at the bodyshop on Monday.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I ordered the MB Motoring Old Schools in gun metal. I went with 17x8 245 45 R17 in front and 17x9.5 285 40 r17 in the back. The 9.5 s at 285 are the x factor for rolling. The sales guy say they would fit. If not I am gonna have to replace them with 17x8s. I figured it was worth the risk. I decided to mock up everything and push paint off. I wanted to avoid overspray too because I have all new suspension gear to put on. I have the fenders off right now because I rebuilt the door hinges and reinstalled them and did a custom install of a foot pedal parking brake. I had to have the fender off to access it. I guess everything will be easier before the fenders go back on. Then roll em.

 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well the wheels were on my porch when I got home and they look great. Definitely a high point in the restoration process. The 285s are super fat and if I can stuff em under, they are going to look great. Seeing them now in person, I looks like I will have to roll the fenders for sure. The car will be back from the welder soon and I can get to putting the brake system together. Feels like progress.
 

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You'll need to roll the fender lips for safe measure. I use the exact same size wheels/tires on my 68 cougar. What back spacing are the wheels set at? Also make sure the rear end is centered in the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Tireorder.jpg


Here is the receipt. The backspacing is 4.75 in the front and 5.5 in the back. Not sure I am deciphering the offset right. I think it is +6mm variety noted in the tire name 6GLM. Sound right?
 

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The fronts will work. Have you done the shelby mod? It will help gain clearance between the control arm and the inboard part of the wheel during suspension travel. The rear worries me, but every car is different. I have 5.75 BS. Could you test fit the wheel before having the tire mounted? You can simulate the tire profile with a piece of wire and check for tire clearance as well. I usually error on the side of more back spacing because it's is cheaper to add spacers than shortening components, i.e. rearend in this case.
 

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I ordered the MB Motoring Old Schools in gun metal. I went with 17x8 245 45 R17 in front and 17x9.5 285 40 r17 in the back. The 9.5 s at 285 are the x factor for rolling. The sales guy say they would fit. If not I am gonna have to replace them with 17x8s. I figured it was worth the risk. I decided to mock up everything and push paint off. I wanted to avoid overspray too because I have all new suspension gear to put on. I have the fenders off right now because I rebuilt the door hinges and reinstalled them and did a custom install of a foot pedal parking brake. I had to have the fender off to access it. I guess everything will be easier before the fenders go back on. Then roll em.

Dunno if I had anything to do with it, but you chose the same tire sizes I did for my '69 'Vert recently. Almost the same rim sizes too, except my rears are 9". What backspacings did you get? If the "right" ones, I think they'll fit. 4.5" for the fronts and 5.5" for the rear (extrapolating from my 5.25" for the 9") should do the trick.

Regards,

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I just told the guy to go as fat as his computer said I could go. I have air shocks in the rear so I should be able to play with the ride height a bit. The finish on these rims was even better than I expected. The 9 1/2 inch rim has a fat polished lip, looks great.

I ordered the wheels with the tires already installed. Worst case I can go down to America's Tire and swap them for 275s.

I am going to do the shelby drop and I have new 620 1 inch drop springs to put on too. I am going to have to do a the power steering conversion too, that or start taking steroids. With 215s it is a bear to parallel park the 245s will be worse. I am planning on doing the Borgeson conversion. But that will wait till after paint.

Anyone in the bay area CA have an Eastwood fender roller I can borrow?
 

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Dan,

"The guy" notwithstanding, do you know what the backspacings of the rims are?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yeah they are posted above. The backspacing is 4.75 in the front and 5.5 in the back. Click on the little picture in post #11 for the receipt. Double check his math for me if you would. I don't know a whole lot about Backspacing and offset other than that my brake package requires a minimum of 4.5" of backspacing so I am good there.
 
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