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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Dee thanks, I will check the coil hot at my buddy's shop and try to check module also. I will let you know. Sal
 
Only other thing I can visualize is if something changed on your 12v supply to the distributor. You said you had a new harness that supplies the 12v- how is that wired? And is that a switched 12v source (I'd assume yes for the key to control it) and is it still a 12v source when the key is in the start position? Might want to verify that and make sure your ignition switch is functioning properly.
Kevin
 
It doesn't make any sense that the points dizzy fires up and runs then - all things being equal says that the MSD is not triggering. Either it's bad or something is not configured correctly. Some of those are triggered externally....either by a crank sensor, or a box. Also, ther are 2 ways to set the rotor onthose depending on the method to trigger - either fixed, or mechanical advance. Then you have to have the springs of course if you are going the mech route.....just thinking out loud here. (thanks doctor obvious HUH!)
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
Might want to verify that and make sure your ignition switch is functioning properly.
I'm use a start button connected to the cylenoid so I'm bypassing the starter switch all together.

Then you have to have the springs of course if you are going the mech route
Bad69cat, the guy at the performance shop changed the springs in the top of the distributor from what was in it to the set that was in my original. By the way I have verified that I have the 8350 distributor. It has a module inside the distributor that controls the spark. I have not been able to get the car to my buddies shop and have something to do this weekend so it will have to wait until he has time to spend on it. Sal
 
[Check the magnetic pickup inside the distributor for any burn/black marks. New ones are like $ 25 and I'll bet that's your problem.[/QUOTE]

I've had problems with the Magnetic Connector inside my FE/MSD Distributor and have replaced it two times. Apparently there was a short in there somehow. My problem seems to be a little different than yours. But I seem to be having the same problem again with Stalling and not starting. Could be a potential trouble spot.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
The new MSD distributor is working! Good news, but,,,,, I am having a fluctuating voltage from the starter switch to the s side of the solenoid. (the other good news is that I have finally spelled solenoid correctly). I have searched for a color coded wiring diagram starter switch to the solenoid with no luck. I have a beige or pink wire to the solenoid but when I trace from the starter switch, that wire disappears into a connector and does not reappear out of the back side. If one of you GREAT Motorheads could supply a link to a diagram, I would be in appreciation. Sal
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
I untaped some wires in the harness from the firewall to various switches such as oil sending unit and they need to be redone but the fluctuation starts at the ignition switch. The yellow wire has 12v going in with the key off but turn the key on and it drops as low as 11.5. The 2 wires that are hot are at the same volts. I'm going to change the ignition switch tomorrow to see if that works. The previous owner installed amps and woofers on a seperate power source but he taped into the ignition wire harness for the radio. I disconnected all of it hoping that there was a draw of current but did not help.

I can't understand why the car won't start as is because the distributor should work with as little as 9 volts.
Sal
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
I have a 1969 ignition switch coming today, will the 1969 ignition switch work on a 70? Sal
 
Where the key goes in? I don't think so. The ignition on a 69 is in the dash, VS on the column for 1970.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
woodsnake, thanks! I'm bringing it to a specialist in the morning. Sal
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Last night I went to the monthly Horseless carriage meeting and was discussing my problem with a few of the older more wiser gentlemen. One of the guys came over tonight and we replaced the hot wire from the ignition switch to the coil and the wire from the coil to the solenoid. She cranks up every time. He also adjusted the timing by ear and set the carburetor.

I do have a new problem, The power steering will only work from the center to the right. It will not work from the center to the left. In other words the turn to the left resembles Manual steering but the turn to the right is power assisted. I know the power steering pump doesn't know which way you are turning so it has to be in the steering ram or the gear box. Why can't I have something easy like a worn ball joint or a bad idler arm? Sal
 
So, you had broken wires in line? Setting engine specs by ear is fine for initial set up, but I think you will want to get an actual timing light and vacuum gauge on it before you start going down the road...
 
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