[Burgertime]

This isn't a big problem for me, but it has been grinding at my soul. The power steering control valve is in bad shape. I have everything to rebuild it, but I can't get out the pin that keeps it from twisting.

The steering is manageable at the moment. It pisses transmission fluid like crazy, so I just leave it empty. Better results at higher RPMs.

What I'd like to know is how the to get that pin out. Also, I'd like to know what kind of results you guys have gotten with control valve rebuilds. Does it making steering ridiculous? Is it better to just ditch it? Or should I go manual?

:wave:

 

[towcat]

That is a drift pin. You will need drift pin punch which is flat on the end and slim enough to go thru the hole,and drive it out.. Don't forget to count the turns it takes to get it off, you will need put it back the same amount. You have to do this to remove the valve, which you know. I have rebuilt every part of a car, but I leave this to this pros. You can buy them from any parts store rebuilt. They are a little pricey, about $175.

 

[PBCOUG]

Just buy one, what's your time worth?

 

[Burgertime]

It isn't a matter of time, it's money (why buy the whole thing when I have the rebuild kit?). It's also about challenges, learning, and KILLING time.

The power steering isn't a big gripe or anything. I have young arms. I just like getting my hands dirty.

 

[PBCOUG]

I respect the challenge, If i had the extra time I would probably do the same. I have used my shop manual many times for projects like this it's helped with the project and my confidence (I'm not a mechanic).

 

[jshcobra]

I'm in the process of rebuilding one for my 68. It's not hard if you take it slow and keep track of the order in which everything goes back. Unfortunately, on mine the parts that most need replacing, i.e., the valve spool and hose seat inserts, were not included in the rebuild kit. From what I've read, these are the two most common culprits for leaks. I'm going to try to machine the spool ends a tiny bit to clean up the pitting. Not sure how to fix the hose seat insert issue.

 

[jk69cat]

for what its worth , i overhauled my 64's ps pump, which was leaking badly , to have the same result, was leaking just as bad. point is your time is worth money , i respect the learning curve, but at the same token, its fustrating

 

[towcat]

The power steering control valve is in bad shape. I have everything to rebuild it, but I can't get out the pin that keeps it from twisting.

MY BAD . The pin must be pulled out, the hole the pin is in, doesn't go all the way through. Grab it with a pair of vice grips, and hit the vice grips with a hammer

 

[jshcobra]

Is this the pin you are talking about? (circled in red)

 

[towcat]

I am talking about the pin that must be removed before the control valve can be unscrewed from the center link. On the threaded end of the control valve there is a clamp with a bolt through it, this clamp must be removed to get to the pin.

 

[jshcobra]

I am talking about the pin that must be removed before the control valve can be unscrewed from the center link. On the threaded end of the control valve there is a clamp with a bolt through it, this clamp must be removed to get to the pin.

I haven't gotten that far yet. Did you manage to get it out?

 

[towcat]

This isn't a big problem for me, but it has been grinding at my soul. The power steering control valve is in bad shape. I have everything to rebuild it, but I can't get out the pin that keeps it from twisting.

The steering is manageable at the moment. It pisses transmission fluid like crazy, so I just leave it empty. Better results at higher RPMs.

What I'd like to know is how the to get that pin out. Also, I'd like to know what kind of results you guys have gotten with control valve rebuilds. Does it making steering ridiculous? Is it better to just ditch it? Or should I go manual?

:wave:

Here is some good info.http://www.stangerssite.com/CanIControlValve.html

http://www.stangerssite.com/CanIPowerCylinder.html