I cant get my power steerting cylinder off. I cant get the stud out of the sway bar. Beeting the carp out of it isnt working. I tried used a ball joint remover and that dosnt work either. How do i get it out. Thanks ~Josh
Usually I have to remove the tie rod (not the sway bar) from the car, clamp it in the vice and use a blow from a 5 pound sledge to the side of the receptacle to remove a power ram. It is a very tight interference fit.
Bet you buy a lot of parts from John Baumann judging by your address?
the power steering clinder is bolted to the centerlink. anyways, I had help removing mine. I had a friend holding a bar betwwen the cylinder and centerlink prying down, and I rapped the centerlink to break the stud loose (careful, if the bar slips your gonna get hit). Keep the nut on the cylinder so it doesnt drop and bonk you on the head too. Its very hard to break loose, its a very tight fit, taking off the centerlink like Royce mentioned would be alot easier and safer for all invoved
The key is to use a bigger hammer. I did this about 2 months ago, and I didn't the engine out. I used a 2 lb. hammer beating against a .75 rolled steel rod from underneath (and in front) of the car. I figured the rod would save the threads, and it did. forget how many times I hit it, but it didn't just pop out.
Be very careful to check the threads on the replacement cylinder if you are turning in a core. I had to take the first cylinder back because the threads on the stud hadn't been restored properly. The nut wouldn't thread on.
Hey dfwcatsclub...is it this type of tool you are talking about? I have a medium-size one of these that I used when working on one of my previous car's suspensions (can't recall which one though - probably the '46).
A tie rod end remover works pretty well for all the connections in the steering system, i.e. pitman arm to control valve, center link to cylinder, etc. If you insist on hitting the end of the stud, leave the nut on the end of the threads.......
(When removing the control valve from the pitman arm, it helps to leave the nut on to help guide the puller, otherwise it will slip and piss you off....)
I prefer to avoid using pry bars (rod end removers). They have a tendency to damage things. It's best to put a block of wood against the base of the rod end, and give it as many whacks as necessary with a 2 lb. hammer. If the wood breaks, then use the hammer by itself. The "shock" imposed by the hammer usually makes quick work of it. Granted, the power steering cylinder may not be the best candidate for this unlike a regular tie rod end.
i USED to have a bad ass do all pickle fork ( think someone stole it ) that i used to remove mine when mine crapped out after the header drop bracket failed. after beating on it, getting creative with a C clamp and hitting it some more, i hit it once with the pickle fork and it popped out. i was more shocked and yet disappointed at the same time. why disappointed? because i had bought it and spent a good chunk of change for that pickle fork and i only hit it once before it was put back on the shelf. lol. dont think i got my moneys worth lol.
S'okay, Steve, betcha you'll use it again...I bought mine in high school for my first car (the '46 Ford I still have) and I have used it MANY times since then (and not always for front-end work!)
*L* A pickle-fork is just one of those things you gotta have in your toolkit...if for nothing else than to make your nephew looking through your tools say "What's THIS for?" :lol:
Thanks DFW...I have a medium-size one, I guess I'll toss it and the pickle-fork and 5-lb sledge under the car and then crawl under and "Just Do It" and see what's up...'preciate the response though...I'll probably try the tool unless a tap on the picklebar works...