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What 'wheels' are best?

  • Original

    Votes: 20 18.5%
  • Modified

    Votes: 14 13.0%
  • Aftermarket

    Votes: 74 68.5%

  • Total voters
    108
21 - 35 of 35 Posts

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The problem with the Bullet wheel is the aftermarket (16" or taller) ones do not offer a suitable backspace for early model Mustang/Cougar. You have to use a spacer, and that doesn't sit right with me. I like American Racing 200's. There's just something about them....

Steve C.
 

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Try some of the alloy wheels used on the "performance" versions of the Crown Victoria or Grand Marquis. Bolt pattern is the same and backspacing is close enough. Some of these are 16X7 and there are some cool 5-spoke designs. Marauder wheels are 17". Prices are fairly reasonable too.

Another alternative that looks good is the Centerline Telstar.
 

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Keystone Classics or Americans like those on my 6pack Road Runner(Photo in my gallery)are my favorite aftermarket wheels.

Don
 

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No Chrome Like My Keystones

When I bought my 70 XR7 it already had chrome Keystone rims and nice wide tires. They are the sharpest looking/most functional wheels i have ever seen. I dont plan on changing a thing!
 

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I voeted for Aftermarket but I want to refinish my old Slots in dark (black) chrome.
 

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I'm old school. I have Magnum 500's on my driver resto-mod and on the original show cars I have the styled steel original 14" wheels.
 

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I am leaning towards Torque Thrust II polished 16".
 

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LOL, the thread is a bit of an antique, so much so that the II's were probably not available when the last post (before yours) was made!
 

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torque thrust 2's, 7 x 17 front, 9.5 x 17 rear w/ custom offset in rear
 

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torque thrust 2's, 7 x 17 front, 9.5 x 17 rear w/ custom offset in rear
Any issues with rubbing on your wheels? And what offset in the rear?

Thanks,

E-Bob
 

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Hey Bob...
I finally went for it and did my torque box on my 69 XR 7. ( drivers side )
My welding is not the best yet but after all I do have a Dewalt grinder to smooth things over..
It will get better..having never welded before this year..
I had rust in the frame rail as well as the unibody brace area each side of the torque box so needed a plasma cutter to get it all out.. another self taught skill. Worked great.. What a tool..bought some 2 X 2 1/4" thick square tube and slid it up inside the rail. some 1/8" steel plate and began cutting pieces and welding them in..
Came out pretty good if I do say so myself. Should be strong and lasting.
Some POR-15 seam sealer and frame paint..
My floor pan is not so corrrect as I used just sheet steel to replace the section I cut out but I plan to cover the floors anyway with sound deadener. Should last forever. I even chiseled out the tab welded in tube that the parking brake cable runs through from the old torque box piece and blasted it down, treated it, and after cutting the correct holes in the new replacement torque box, welded the tube in. Fits great in the new box. This will surely help in sliding the cable through the box to re-connect the cable to the parking brake pedal.
Gotta love new tools and the desire to "Get-ER- Done"....
 

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Sorry that I did not get back to you sooner. I just moved recently so my car is in a freinds shop until I get my garage cleaned out. I don't remember the offset offhand, but I know the tire was about an inch from the spring and since my fender lips are rolled I could have went with 11's no problem.
 
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