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Being a Jersey boy, I'm just impressed he didn't put in glass bottoms! (technique for easy ID of the pedestrian you "ran over") - maybe that's only for the Joe's with a bent nose huh?! :>) I gotta give ya credit - if I see torque box replacement as a neccessity I couldn't run awy from it fast enough! '71 Hemi 'Cuda vert - maybe, but that's still a ton of sweat. At least I know who to call on when I find that one! I'll bet you one thing - it won't be for sale when it's done!
 

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I have to laugh when I see cars for sale described as "rust free, just a few paint bubbles in the quarters and doors".
I'm with you on that one Art....I had it explained to me recently that "rust free" means no rust going through not that there isn't any rust. LOL By my iterpretation of rust free means no rust....its all painted....and that rarely exists except on cars that where redone like maybe this one.
 

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Kudos to you and all your work on this car and the photographic documenting of the process...talk about going the extra mile.
 

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Discussion Starter #365
Thanks for the nice comments guys. LOL Rob, there are a few good ones ones posted here. They could be the start of a rusty car joke collection!
 

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Discussion Starter #366 (Edited)
No pictures tonight, but...

How's this for an idea? Need to sandblast some stuff? Use an old camping (in my case dome) tent! The nylon screen(s) provide ventilation yet all sand is retained! Blasted my brains out tonight on both my selected doors, came out great and at the end of the night I STILL!!! have my original sand which I blasted the undercarriage with and which before that was my pool filter media. Talk about recycling! Love it! (but what a messy job) Felt like a sand flea and/or a coal-miner! The pool was 68 degrees, but just the ticket to wash away the carnage that proceeded my jumping in.

Peace out.

The ECI

P.S. PLEASE do not blast anything without using a high quality respirator. I had to blow out my prefilters twice last night (when they begin to clog with fine dust it gets hard to breath). This morning suffered no ill effects other than being tired and a pulled muscle from sitting contorted on the tent floor, supporting the door at times, etc... No stuff in the nose, no coughing, etc...
 

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Discussion Starter #368
Thanks for the comment. Been kind of slow making progress on the car recently. However, I did take the opportunity today (Columbus day, day off) to begin the minor plastic work on the 1/4 panel seams where the new metal joins the old. It is a very, very long time since I have done plastic, but it's just like falling off a log. The hand-off to a quality body shop to finish the prep a paint work is still a ways off, but will get there eventually.

Regards,

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #369 (Edited)
The Right/Permanent Way to Repair Those Door Corner Rust Spots...

Hello, time for another installment from the ECI. Hard at work getting the ECI mobile ready for hand-off to a quality body shop for paint. Nope! I am not going to paint it myself, as much as I want to, I know a proper shop with booths, etc... can do it better, faster and at a reasonable price (the REAL reason). Not to mention I could use a break to prepare for the cars return for assembly, clean up, organize, etc...

Been stripping, sanding, minor plastic, minor metalwork, fitting and prepping the wing, that sort of thing.

So the dilemma of how to deal with the nasty doorshell corners which rot out on all but west coast doors (and even some of those). You cut out the offending metal only to find a rust haven in those pockets behind. This in and of itself isn't so bad, but on the hinge side of the door you have the lower hinge bolt plate bracket that attaches to the shell (among other places) right in that pocket, a veritable rust sandwich.

Now I did not take pictures of the before on this (I'm sure you all know what that looks like), I have been quietly working away (uncharacteristic for an ECI) but decided to shoot some pictures last night as I was progressing.

So, what to do about the bracket that is in your way and harboring all sorts of rust. Drill out the (count 'em) 13 spot welds and remove that sucker. Glass bead (or sandblast) it (them) and paint.





Then, sandblast the crap out of the area under the bracket (from the inside of the door, not fun) and in the pocket(s) where you cut out the skin(s).



Weld the bracket back into the door shell and you are good to go for finishing the skin repairs.

There wasn't a lot of the bracket tab left, but enough to solidly attach to the shell in the original place.

Another thing that happens (and happened to me) is what looks like a clean shell may be harboring so much rust under the aformentioned bracket that once blasted clean reveals numerous pinholes. I cut the same piece out of an original door (that was overall in much worse shape), cleaned the piece, welded up its (less numerous) pinholes and grafted that piece into the shell opening left from the removed bad metal. You can use the cut out piece as a pattern for the new piece, just make it bigger by a tad more than the blade width of what you remove it with.

So once the bracket in rewelded in place (13, count 'em 13 plug welds to make and then grind), you can begin installing the skin patches.













Edit: Moved remaining content to Post #371 so all images can be posted.
 

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Very nice! What plans do you have for replacing the weld-through primer that gets burnt away from the welds in the front of the doors? That's what kept me from really caring about those spots. I figured I just spray down in there and get it as wet as I could, hoping that it would flow into the cracks, then fill it up with undercoater.

You're so much more thorough than I am. Maybe all of us, really!
 

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Discussion Starter #371 (Edited)
Edit: Moved from Post #369 so all images can be posted.

By the way, the job is just so much more "spiritual" when your patches are cut from a dearly departed car of signifigance in your life (in this case, trunk lid sheet metal salvaged from dearly departed "Cleveland Rocks" '70 std HT)

Tack 'em.







Weld all the way (many, individual welds, move around to limit heat buildup (= warpage) until all is welded).









Grind 'em out.



Some massaging of the repaired area may be necessary to minimize plastic needed to fill these repaired areas. I put a framing pry bar inside the shell and pushed the areas needed out (they usually shrink inward) to level things up as best as possible.

Thanks to Ken Gucker for the suggestion/idea to remove said brackets to do proper and lasting job of cancer removal.

All I want for Xmas is my car at the paint shop, my car at the paint shop, my car at the paint shop...

Regards,

Bob

(End of moved content)

What plans do you have for replacing the weld-through primer that gets burnt away from the welds in the front of the doors?
Well, "the plan" is to spray 3M Body Shutz into these areas.

The other thing that I have done (but forgot to mention so thanks for asking) is I drilled a 1/8" hole in the shell in each of these areas so that (hopefully) any moisture that gets in these spots will have a way to get out. Edit: You can see one of these drain holes in this shot:



Truthfully, the car will lead a sheltered existance (literally) anyway so there is not too much to worry about.

As for thoroughness, it is only through age and having had a car that was never done quite right (or finished) that has led me to this place. Well that and time, money, obsessive-compulsive-disorder and not having had children. :bloated:
 

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Nice work, soon you will have color and clear on it. Then you can do the tedious assembly that comes after paint! Its a joy of joys!
 

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Discussion Starter #374 (Edited)
Did your door corners warp from the patch welding?
Todd,

Yes, a little bit. What i did afterwards was sight down the edges (vertical and horizontal) and tapped things back where they belong. Then (as I had mentioned) I used a framing prybar (and screwdriver when that was not enough) to nudge the repaired areas out as they tend to shrink inward.

This all is in spite of using an air nozzle to cool each spot weld (unless I was just not fast enough to go from weld to blowing the weld cool).

So, (in my view) some warpage is inevitable, but it can fairly easily be massaged into reasonable shape which will require minimal filler to smooth out.

- Bob
 

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Whats keeping the body from twisting? dont see any kind of bracing/jig to hold it in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #376
Whats keeping the body from twisting? dont see any kind of bracing/jig to hold it in place.
Ron,

Everything that is supposed to be on/part of the body is on the body, so why would the body twist? Or, maybe I am not understanding your frame of reference, what are you looking at when you say this? I would be happy to explain.

Along the same lines, you'll be surprised to know that I did not need or use bracing when I replaced the inner rockers and other structural members. It is all a matter of how/where the body is supported which determines the stresses on it. I supported the body in the rear under the differential shock mounts and in the front as far forward as I could, under the lower control arm mounts on the body when I did this work. As a confidence measure, I even took the body to a frame shop and had it checked when I was done. They found the body to be in perfect alignment.
 

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just thouht that the floor and floor brace's being removed would weakin the body make it twist or bow.i have a 67 gto full frame even jacking one side of the car up put the door out of wack.What made me think of it tho is was at my buddies shop one time seen a 67 nova on a for post lift that had the door open when it was raised and it wouldnt shut on the lift.soon as is it was back on the ground shut perfect.nothing was removed from either car at the time.so seems like they move alot just lifting them.so i would think removing the floor and bracing would let the car twist/bow not alot i dont guess but even 1/4 movement then putting in the the floor and bracing back in would cause the doors to be out of wack some.
 

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Discussion Starter #378 (Edited)
You do see what you describe on convertibles when using a lift but it goes away when you have no drivetrain or rear (so much less weight). Both this car and my '94 mustang convertible door gaps widen when they are put on a lift. If I attempted the work with all the stuff in/on the car it would have probably folded in half. With it all out, I can lift either end of the car off the lift by myself, just to give you an idea of how light it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #379 (Edited)
Status

Haven't snapped any pictures lately but have been working on the pieces getting them ready for paint at the body shop between winter vacations and holiday preparations, etc... Door metal repairs are complete (as documented previously), plastic work done and self-etching primer sprayed. Trunk lid minimal under lip rust addressed, emblem holes welded shut, repro spoiler mounting holes measured, marked and drilled (BTW, no support between skin and frame needed on '69? I will not be able to restrain myself from making spacers and fishing them in at install time to reinforce), self-etching primer sprayed. All seams of these three panels re-seam-sealed. Dropping them off at the body shop (along with two-part putty, high-build primer and reducer) this evening.

Will be cutting it close tonight to make it to the shop before it closes, but will try to take a few pictures before I leave.

In process currently: Front and rear valences, two of each (can't have too many of these for spares or to sell later!).

Left to be done:

- Strip/prime fenders and hood (and make cut out for ram air/scoop). Only plastic will be in lower of passenger fender where valence pulled on bottom of fender.

- Finish quarter patch minimal plastic at seams to original metal, about 75% complete currently.

- Strip/prime door and trunk jambs

Happy Holidays,

Bob
 

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Anybody know how long it takes to learn to drive a bulldozer? Backhoe?
 
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